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Author: Subject: electrical gurus speed sensor hall sensor question
02GF74

posted on 8/1/16 at 12:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by obfripper
The diodes and capacitors are to protect the circuit against voltage spikes and smooth any jitter in the voltages.
They aren't absolutely necessary, but will make the circuit more durable.
The 7805 will produce some (~3w) heat with no load due to the way it works, a buck converter would be more efficient but would require a more complicated circuit.

Dave

Agree with all the above except the part in green. The power dissipated will be more or less voltage drop (7V in this case) multiplied by current through the device. I do not believe the no load current is 0.43 A.

The sensor would draw in the region of milliamps - 7805 without heatsink will be fine.






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omega 24 v6

posted on 17/1/16 at 07:31 PM Reply With Quote
OK so a little update as promised. The emerald ecu output for the tachometer does indeed power the acewell BUT its reading about three times more than the actual revs. Fitting the resistor in line ( in series) kills the signal altogether and no rpm on acewell showing. Anyone got any advice on this??
The gearbox is now all wired and I will report back on that when the car is actually on the road and running.
Thanks for now.





If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.

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russbost

posted on 17/1/16 at 08:12 PM Reply With Quote
The. rpm should just be a matter of changing the no. in the setup, you have 0.5, 1, 2 & 3 which refers to the no. of pulses the Acewell is expecting to see per engine revolution. Most 4 cyl. engines require 0.5, if wasted spark then 1.





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omega 24 v6

posted on 17/1/16 at 08:15 PM Reply With Quote
C.O.P so will have a play and get it right I'm sure. Couldn't acess the settings screen since its been so long ago since I looked at the instructions LOL.





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