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soldering and flux
beaver34 - 19/12/14 at 05:35 PM

do people use flux when soldering?

if so what type, i seem to struggle with normal solder with flux in, used some paste stuff before and its made the job alot easier

only issue is i cannot remember what it was called so i can buy some


rash12 - 19/12/14 at 05:39 PM

I use laco flux works for me but there are lots of makes


AndyW - 19/12/14 at 06:25 PM

I have always used fluxite and found it perfectly good

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bi22le - 19/12/14 at 06:38 PM

I use fluxed solder.

If the pcb pads and cables are clean it will work fine. Its a little more tricky if your doing big stuff as some irons cant pump the heat in enough so the large wires soak all of the heat away. Is that your issue?

Also make sure you use a suitable sized nib for your iron.

If your talking about soldering copper pipes, i have no idea!!


redturner - 19/12/14 at 07:11 PM

Fluxite for me but always had good results with Bakers Fluid..............


rusty nuts - 19/12/14 at 07:21 PM

Really depends on what you are soldering, for radiator repairs I always use Bakers , for wiring I use fluxes solder wire . As already suggest a decent iron helps . Have a look at gas powered soldering irons for larger cables (or even a welding torch)


mark chandler - 19/12/14 at 07:27 PM

Flux centred solder is for electrical work, the stuff for copper pipes is a different mix, bakers flux for me.

[Edited on 19/12/14 by mark chandler]


BenB - 19/12/14 at 07:28 PM

Yes, very much depends on what you're soldering. For electrical stuff it's resin-cored ready-to-go stuff, for plumbing and car bits (essentially plumbing) it's those tubs of yellow flux that all the DIY superstores sell- works perfectly for me....


big-vee-twin - 19/12/14 at 09:42 PM

Lead free solder is poo.


beaver34 - 19/12/14 at 10:08 PM

sorry its wiring looms for the kit, normally i carnt get the a good enough solder using flux corded stuff

ive got a couple of soldering irons too as i though one was just crap but i seems not to be the case


redturner - 19/12/14 at 10:22 PM

With any kind of soldering, cleanliness is next to Godliness, and the correct heat is essential. Tin the wires first, hold together then apply heat and they should just fuse.....


Andi - 19/12/14 at 10:24 PM

quote:
Originally posted by beaver34
sorry its wiring looms for the kit, normally i carnt get the a good enough solder using flux corded stuff

ive got a couple of soldering irons too as i though one was just crap but i seems not to be the case


Ditto...
Always been the same for me. Tried various irons/solder stations etc

Andi


threadbare wallet - 20/12/14 at 08:39 AM

As above get heat into the wires,most solder is fine but most use a much to small tip thinking they need precision.you need surface area to get heat into the wire,tin them both before trying attach them,also if trying to do it in the garage(which i presume) the cold or wind will make a difference at work when (i hand solder pcb boards alday) i have a fan pointing to close to my work it will cool the iron enough to effect things so keep this in mind.
Hobby irons somtimes dont have the power either so look at the power rating of the iron and the condition of the tip(if replacable try a new one) also cover the tip with a dap of solder as this helps transfer heat to the work.


907 - 20/12/14 at 09:41 AM

quote:
Originally posted by beaver34
sorry its wiring looms for the kit, normally i carnt get the a good enough solder using flux corded stuff

ive got a couple of soldering irons too as i though one was just crap but i seems not to be the case





Although I don't have trouble using flux cored lead solder if you have loads of connections to do then I would
advise investing in a set of crimp pliers and the terminals & heat shrink that go with them.


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If you must solder then what most people neglect is the irons copper tip.
Clean it with a file before you heat it / switch it on and tin it with flux & solder before you start to solder terminals.


hth
Paul G


beaver34 - 20/12/14 at 10:56 AM

quote:
Originally posted by 907
quote:
Originally posted by beaver34
sorry its wiring looms for the kit, normally i carnt get the a good enough solder using flux corded stuff

ive got a couple of soldering irons too as i though one was just crap but i seems not to be the case





Although I don't have trouble using flux cored lead solder if you have loads of connections to do then I would
advise investing in a set of crimp pliers and the terminals & heat shrink that go with them.


Description
Description


If you must solder then what most people neglect is the irons copper tip.
Clean it with a file before you heat it / switch it on and tin it with flux & solder before you start to solder terminals.


hth
Paul G


thanks paul

ive done the main loom bits with crimps, this is for dash control buttons and other small switches that are fiddle small prongs on the back


02GF74 - 20/12/14 at 05:09 PM

you trying to solder new or old wires?

the latter may be corroded or oxidised, like the ones in my land rover, splay the filaments out and run them over emery cloth to get a nice shine.

I find that dipping the wire in fluxite helps the folux cored solder flow.

Now I may be treaching you to suck eggs but the way i do it is a follows
- dip wires in fluxite
- put small blob of solder on tip of soldering iron
- place the wires to be soldered in the molten blob of solder
- wait a little bit for the wires to heat up
- introduce the cored solder onto the wires
- if needed run the soldring tip along the wires introducing the solder to the iron tip, it needs to have molten solder on it all the time as the liquid metal is best for transfering heat


snowy2 - 21/12/14 at 09:52 AM

if your struggling with the self fluxing solder your technique is no good, you apply a small bubble of solder to the iron to "tin " it... the heated tip needs to be CLEAN wipe it on a rag the tip should be shiny, then apply the heat to the wire that needs soldering and apply the soldering wire (the self fluxing type) to the wire and it should flow in to the joint.....easy peasy.
ps....do not heat the joint too much, if the solder forms a spike when you take the solder gun away, it was too hot for to long and the joint could well be unreliable.


designer - 21/12/14 at 11:00 AM

I would never solder anything on a loom. Quality rachet crimpers is the only way.

Soldered joins are unreliable, that's why they are banned for aircraft.


MikeRJ - 21/12/14 at 12:56 PM

quote:
Originally posted by designer
I would never solder anything on a loom. Quality rachet crimpers is the only way.

Soldered joins are unreliable, that's why they are banned for aircraft.


Correct. Any application that requires high reliability, long life and is subject to vibration should use crimp connections for cable looms. Trains, aircraft, spacecraft and any modern car will use crimped connections exclusively for cables.

Using aggressive fluxes designed for plumbing or sheet metalwork (e.g. fluxite) is an especially bad idea, the non activated flux that inevitably remains within the wire and connector will cause corrosion.