Hi guys.. this week i've been tring to simplify some of my wiring on the MK indy blade..

The wiring in question was is behind the dash as the previous owner or builder left a jungle of wires

I also wanted to remove the ugly sierra stalks ans just fit illuminated toggles for the lights;

1 for sid lights
1 for main
1 for beam

and a On-off-on for the indicators..

I've got everything finished now and tested everything but I have a problem

when I switch my main beam on or full beam on it dips the power some how and actually turns of my ignotion momentarly

should I have used relays in the system for these light as I just wired them straight from switched live to light switch to light

as follows

Switched live - Light Switch - Light

how I know it switches of my ignition is because I have digital dagh and this works fine with lights off but again when I switch on the lights the power dips and switches off my digi-dash

Tia Alan

Yes you should of used relays for your lights,its as simple as that.

ok cheers mate... any idea which real IM LOOKING FOR ???

Previously when it was wired using stalks, were relays used then ?

Off topic

Hi tompat3463 you have u2u and emails but you have not been replying to me about the aeroscreen I bought from you. I still don't have it!

Please could you reply here or u2u me please

I don't think the standard blade loom uses a relay for the lighting so you shouldn't have a problem.

if it worked fine on the stalks before and all you've done is change them for toggles, the fault is not because you don't have relays.

though i think using 3 toggle switches isn't a great idea. will prove more a nightmare than say an off-on-on switch (which is essentially what the sierra staks are)

so off-side-dip beam
then another toggle to power a changeover relay. when switched off, power sent to dip beam, when swiched on, power sent to main beam

do side lights usually stay on when dip is on? not sure. i think they do, so that needs a bot more thought perhaps. thats how i was going to do mine, but just seen a flaw in the plan...

[Edited on 12/5/11 by blakep82]

hi.. thanks for the info..

blakep82

I have just used 3 ON-Off switches for the lights

and an on-off-on for the indicators..

where do u think the problem may lie ???

not the best at wiring

cheers Al

Description

little diagram to explain what I have ??

can anyone see a flaw ???

Flat Battery??

Having no relays will not cause the problem, the lighting will still pull the same current from the battery, all the relay does is allow you to switch a heavy current load using a low current switch.

It sounds to me as if you have a faulty cell in your battery and when the current is drawn from the battery the battery can't maintain the voltgae and it drops below the point at which your electronic dash operates probabily around 10 volts.

Can you temporarily connect another battery and see if it still happens.

quote:

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Originally posted by tompat3463

Description

little diagram to explain what I have ??

can anyone see a flaw ???

---

You are running all the power for the car through position 2 of the ignition switch. It just can't carry that much current. Try adding relays for ignition controlled busbar, and main and dipped beam, using them to carry the heavy loadings and the ignition switch and light switch just for switching relays.

[Edited on 13/5/11 by Dusty]

ok....so which relays do I require ???

cheers Alan

You need a 30A main relay for the ignition, and a lighting relay for the lights and main beam.

ETA Also, your key wont isolate the engine and prevent it from being started. It will just lock the lights off!

[Edited on 13-5-11 by MakeEverything]

quote:

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Originally posted by tompat3463
ok....so which relays do I require ???

cheers Alan

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hi.. no never had the connectors.. they were just butteted in... poor !!

so how many pins should thing ignition relay have im confused !!!!

how do I wire that up ???

PS I have an toggle for the ignition which I think is rated to 25amp

cheers Alan

here is some advise to save you loads of trouble........never never ever use scotch locks on any part of your cars wiring, they can cause all sorts of evil faults even if they have been disconnected. NEVER leave them on your wiring if you disconnect them!

Relays are remote operated switches, they allow weedy (and cheaper) switches to switch on large current consumers, lights, wipers etc.

see here.... http://www.godspeed.me/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1289

but essentially on a 4 pin relay, contact 85 + 86 are the "trigger" wires (86 to earth, 85 to your own switch) terminal 30 is the power supply (battery) terminal 87 is connected to your device to be switched on (lights) on a 5 pin relay it will have the same connections as the 4 pin relay except it will also have a 87a terminal this terminal is normally closed (switched on) and goes open (switched off) when the relay is operated. pin 87 does the exact opposite, (normally off (open) and switches to closed (on) when the relay is operated) which is what makes it useful for general use.

I have a similar set up with 3 savage switches for the 3 lights, side, dip & mains (as they don't do a combined switch), however the dipped and mains trigger relays and the ignition feed to the fuse box also has a relay to protect all of the switches from high current draw.

All the high current thus is drawn on the hi power side of the relays from a separate supply from the battery via the fusebox.

As said before your drawing too much current through the ignition switch (and probably the toggles - the sierra switch dosn't use relays as its man enough to take the current, however these do still burn out over time, so its a good idea to always use relays on high power circuits such as lighting.

Can draw a diagram if it helps.