Wiring?
I was going to use to CBS Wiring module for this bit, but it seems a bit of a waste of money so thought I'd at least have a go at a wiring
diagram for it. Does this look right?
Will the ignition warning light (LED) work when wired in parallel like that? The other (not ideal) option would be to leave it out and set one of the
user options on MegaJolt to voltage, at say 13v and wire that to the battery indicator on the Bright 6.
This is coming from someone who has no actual experience, except with Austin Healey ownership 20 years ago. I'm just giving opinion,
understand.
BUT, that looks a lot like my first wiring of my dash - that I am now going to change. I was told though, that it would be safer to wire the (+)
directly to the fan, lights etc, and the NEG back from the device to the corresponding switch. The NEG from the switch then goes to the chassis, and
when closed, completing the circuit. This apparently reduces the chance of a short in the switch itself, with resulting dire consequences.
Your method has the (+) going right to the switches does it not?
It looks pretty ok to me.
There's a bit more to it when you add in any relays plus the switches etc but as the feed/power section it should work
Personally I wouuld have all the lights except indicators off the permanent live but that's minor
put the coling fan feed straight to battery then seperate fuse,everything else can go to ign,i would use a relay for ign fed fuse box feed ie try not
to put too many loads through one switch,use relays where poss
quote:
Originally posted by theconrodkid
put the coling fan feed straight to battery then seperate fuse,everything else can go to ign,i would use a relay for ign fed fuse box feed ie try not to put too many loads through one switch,use relays where poss
Thanks guys. I was planning on using the relays for beam, dipped, indicators and hazards, its just a bit complicated to show on 1 diagram when hand drawing so left them out. I presume the switch within the key barrel can take the load, or should I wire the permanent live fuse box straight to the battery with an inline fuse?
3 comments
- where is the low brake fluid/test lamp/switch?
- fuse between battery and starter?!?!??! 
That is gonn have to be a bout 200 A; I am not aware of there being a fuse there but a fat wire.
- is D+ the winding field for the alternator? this should be fed with volts from the battery in order to self-excite. I take it you have a LED there
- it is wired wrong way round as you will not feed the alternator plus the lamp will never come on.
A LED would be wired other way round plus you need a 3 W 68 ohm resistor wired in parrallrallel for the feed. (maplins sell them for 30 p or so)
although most production cars don't fuse the starter motor cable you can easily and quite cheaply use one of these just incase the cable rubs
against the engine/body etc and shorts the battery. They go all the way up to 500amps so quite suitable.
he’s got D+ fed from the ignition key so that will start the alternator charging but like you say the diode is the wrong way round though but it is
shown wired in parallel
[Edited on 20/2/09 by Mr Whippy]
quote:
Originally posted by Mr WhippyIts a good idea to use the relays instead of the switch handling loads like headlights, done it both ways on cars but most production cars use the relay method (you can hear them clicking on) and I'm sure that would be more reliable over time.
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
he’s got D+ fed from the ignition key so that will start the alternator charging but like you say the diode is the wrong way round though but it is shown wired in parallel
Any suggestions on how to use an LED as a Ignition warning light then?
I've spent the evening amalgamating my many different diagrams into this. Where switches can be moved to the negative side of components without
having to run massively more cable I have included it, I'm still undecided on whether it is worth running all the extra cable to wire everything
that way.
The changes are basically limited to:
