Can anyone help me with this? This is a diagram for my speedo corrector which before I looked yesterday seemed fine and the LED was flashing to show that it was ready to go. However it's now not flashing and not playing.

Image deleted by owner

There's no voltage at RA0 on the PIC chip and none at at base terminal on the transistor. 0V at the emitter terminal but 5.05V at the collector.
I'm not sure at first glance whether voltage should be coming out of the chip at RA0 or going in either.
Any help would be great cheers.
Edited to say RA0 is a bi directional I/O port.

[Edited on 7/11/08 by mistergrumpy]

thats more wiring than my whole beetle has...

Don't beetles run on 6V too?

[Edited on 7/11/08 by mistergrumpy]

RA0 is an I/O pin that would be configured as an output since it connects to base of NPN transistor Q5.

It will send out a sequence of 0 v/5 V pulses that would make the LED1 flash.

The fact that is is 0 V is not unsual. The emitter of Q5 will be 0 V since that it connected to 0 V unless you meant another transistor?

The emitter of Q6 wil depend on LK1 and LK2 (follow connection A).

The LED flashing - is it meant to do that when you power it up to indicate the speedo healer is working?

It looks to me that it will only flash when you have input pulses and they have been converted to the new frequency since the LED is connected to the output.

[Edited on 7/11/08 by 02GF74]

quote:

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Originally posted by mistergrumpy
Don't beetles run on 6V too?

[Edited on 7/11/08 by mistergrumpy]

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Thanks for the help O2. The LED used to flash when the car was just stood still. I've had it on the axle stands running and it still doesn't flash.

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Originally posted by mistergrumpy
Thanks for the help O2. The LED used to flash when the car was just stood still. I've had it on the axle stands running and it still doesn't flash.

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When it did flash:
1. Always flashed at same rate
2. Flashed when ignition was switched on if I remeber rightly
3. I don't remember the flash rate changing with speed
4. It was connected to the sensor
5. It is connected to the sensor
6. Not sure on sensor working. Its the syandard Kawasaki hall effect?
7. I'm trying to think of what I changd in that system and all I can think of is that the rev counter counter wasn't working can't remeber what was wrong and I found an earth wire totally unconnected that I'd forgotten about. I can't really remember the precise moment the LED stopped working though.
I've just tried running the engine on the stands again but no light.
Instructions say that the LED should flash at 1Hz whilst the car is in motion. This would show that the speedo corrector has set itself for the type of speedo signal that is present and is receiving a valid signal.
I can accept that the sensor may not be close enough (though much closer would be too close) but the fact is that the LED did flash once upon a time.
I'm wondering if the sensor itself is knackered now?

I tested the speedo sensor as per Haynes manual and when waving a screwdriver in front there was no voltage detected so I've beento the scrappies and got another and still no difference. testing shows it to be exactly same as the first. Puzzled now.

quote:

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Originally posted by mistergrumpy
When it did flash:
1. Always flashed at same rate
2. Flashed when ignition was switched on if I remeber rightly
3. I don't remember the flash rate changing with speed

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Yep. Output is the converted signal on its way to the clocks. Input is from the sensor.

Instructions say to start off with set S1 to position 2 and S2 to A (Autoset). Install link LK2 and drive the car for a minute. Speedo shouldn't work. LED should flash at 1Hz whilst car is in motion which shows that the speedo corrector has set itself for the type of speedometer signal and is also receiving a valid signal. If the LED doesn't flash install link LK1 instaed of LK2 and try again.

I've definitely had the LED flashing before it must have been whilst the car was on stands again at the bottom of the drive.

The sensor is standard Kwak item with 3 wires as you say but the corrector has a 12V feed

[Edited on 7/11/08 by mistergrumpy]

quote:

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Originally posted by mistergrumpy

Instructions say to start off with set S1 to position 2 and S2 to A (Autoset). Install link LK2 and drive the car for a minute. Speedo shouldn't work. LED should flash at 1Hz whilst car is in motion which shows that the speedo corrector has set itself for the type of speedometer signal and is also receiving a valid signal. If the LED doesn't flash install link LK1 instaed of LK2 and try again.

I've definitely had the LED flashing before it must have been whilst the car was on stands again at the bottom of the drive.

The sensor is standard Kwak item with 3 wires as you say but the corrector has a 12V feed

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Ah ha, now we're getting somewhere. I did the resistor in wire thing like you said. This resulted in a voltage of around 12V. I touched it onto the input terminal (after disconnecting the wire from the sender) like you said and there it was, the LED started flashing
So, I measured the voltage being sent to the sender which was only around 5V. So am I right in thinking that maybe this is too low to power the sender and is resulting in nowt being sent to the corrector.

By the way. Thanks very much for getting me this far its very much appreciated. I'm not that great with electrics, I've got books and that and the theory seems to go down but not the practical.

that's good news - it shows you have not fried the circuit!

next step is to figure out how to get a signal from the sensor.

I am not familiar with the sensor you are using but if itis Hall effect, it may be something like this

Supply is 4.5 - 10.5 V, typ 7.0 V so it should really work with 5.0 V.

Try this.
1. connect 5.0 V to device.
2. Connect output to two 1 K resistors beween to 5 V and zero, as below.

Put DVM to read volts on ouput then bring a magnet close to the sensor - you should see a voltage change; maybe as little as 0.5 V.

Note that you must get the power supply the right way round otherwise the sensor ill be toast.

You could then try connecting the 8.2 V supply to the sensor from LK1 on the board. DO NOT CONNECT SENSOR TO 12 V.

BUT can we check it is definitely a Hall effect? An inductive type sensor has 2 wires and is magnetic i.e. it should grab a steel screwdriver close to it; some have an electro magnetic coil so would have 3 wires.

Any chance of posting a picture of the business end of the sensor?

Do you have Kawasaki wiring diagram showing the sensor?

[Edited on 8/11/08 by 02GF74]
Rescued attachment sens.JPG

The sensor is the 3 wire magnetic sensor type then sorry, not a hall effect. It normally works by the sprocket passing by it and in the Haynes it says to test it by hooking up 12V power to 2 terminals with a 10K resistor on one and then earth the remaining terminal and to move a screwdriver across the front of it which should register a voltage of some sorts. Neither of the 2 sensors I have do that but I thought it's maybe a bit much if both were out.

Here is a picture of the circuit diagram for the speedo:

Image deleted by owner

The sensor is the yellow, pink and earth wired thing bottom left. It feeds off the speedo clock.

Here is the sensor:

[img][/img]

quote:

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Originally posted by mistergrumpy
the Haynes it says to test it by hooking up 12V power to 2 terminals with a 10K resistor on one and then earth the remaining terminal and to move a screwdriver across the front of it which should register a voltage of some sorts. Neither of the 2 sensors I have do that
Here is a picture of the circuit diagram for the speedo:

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Okay. Took me the best part of 3 hours to work out how to focus the camera right


Description

The sensor is from a 98 C model ZX9 and it can only be plugged into the loom the one way so that'll be right. There's also continuity from the plug right up to the plug that goes into the clock.

The grey bar on the picture represents the plug I gather, not sure why it doesn't show where the pink wire goes. I've just took the clocks apart but it just feeds into a resistor then off to a diode and I can't see further.

The sensor itself is magnetic before and after it is plugged into the loom and it'll pick up a screw no worries.

I've just plugged everything in and put the battery on. Something that I noticed is that the yellow wire feeds a steady 4.67V or so but the pink wire fluctuates from 0.02 to 0.01 to 3.67 then back to 0V and then just keeps doing that again and again?
The earth is fine when I did a continuity check to the chassis.

I think it must be a sensor problem. I've tried both though, and they respond the same.

so sensor:
black/yellow = 0 v
yellow = supply, 4.7 V (or 5 V as good as damit)
pink = output

now the output is fluctuating between two voltages 0 and 3.7 V all the time.

does the speed of fluctuation change when you wave a steel object near the sensor?

It may be hard for you to see this with a DVM as there is some delay in updating the display.

You may want to have a LED connected to the 5 V supply with a 1 K resitor connected to the pink wire - you will see if the flash rate changes.

(my current thinking, and it may be wrong, is that the sensor supplies a train of pulses whose frequency is representing the speed.)

Remember when you wrote this: The LED used to flash when the car was just stood still.

wot you wrote above explains as to why - the sensor is giving out a constant stream of pulses so the unit thought is was in calibration mode. this may make auto-calibration interesting!

[Edited on 10/11/08 by 02GF74]
Rescued attachment tled.JPG

Daily update then.
After some more fiddling I've found that this fluctuating voltage is actually coming from the speedo corrector "input" terminal.
I can stop this voltage appearing at the input terminal by removing the LK1/LK2 link.
Getting really confused now! It's (you tell me) as though a capacitor is charging then discharging maybe?
The U2U sent regards the ZX12 limiter isn't applicable to the ZX9 as it had no limiter. No speedo wire ever goes to the ECU even.

So what I wrote about the sensor is b*ll*cks since I was not aware you had it connected to the corrector, it makes more sense now.

You should be able to test the sender by connecting it to 5 V supply - you can get that off one of the pins on LK2, wiggling metal and measuring the output voltage.

Incidentally, how are you supplying power to the sensor?

LK1/LK2 links select between 8.2 V and 5 V supply to the input stages - how does manual describe these links?

I'll wager the pulses you are seeing are not due to some capacitor charge/discharge but are coming from RA2. I have an idea asto why this may but but this is conjecture so I'll keep quiet.

Do you have a link to documentation about the circuit? Sorry progress is slow as it is a lot of guesswork without knowing the code inside the PIC

What do instruction say about switches S1 and S2?

You've tried different switch positions ABCDEF (you may need to power off/on since the device may only readthem when it is starting to run the code.

The corrector was bought off Ebay by a lad who makes them from the plans up there ^ and includes some home printed instructions so they're rather limited.

The only reference made to LK1/2 is at the start when it says if the LED doesn't start flashing then try installing link on the other i.e.1 or 2.

Power to the sensor is supplied down the yellow wire from the clocks and also earths via the clocks too.

S1 and S2 are decribed as being the "correctors" in that S1 is for single units and S2 is for tens of units. They can also be used to correct speedo lag on digital speedos. During initial set up, he first thing it says to do is set S1 to 2 and S2 to A and after the LED flashes for recognition of a valid signal it says to set S1 to 0 and S2 to 0.

There is no online instructions that I could show you sorry.

Don't apologise for the time it's taking mate, I feel quite bad for keep mithering you.

I think your RA2 idea might be right. I've just put the multimeter on this pin and the voltage goes from 0.01V to 5.03V every 5 seconds or so.
What's your idea then?

RA2, RA3 and RB0 are all acting in the same manner with the voltage fluctuations.

Image deleted by owner

The brown and white wire leading into the speedo is 12.23V, the yellow wire leading out is 5V. Testing resistance on the clocks when they are not plugged into the loom shows an open circuit between the brown and white and yellow.

Wahey! Just to round this off, I've sorted it. Summat clicked last night around midnight after reading something totally unrelated earlier that mentioned a yellow wire. I was getting off to bed and so had to get dressed and out to the garage to check.
I'd cut into the pink wire! I thought yellow was the feed off the clocks but it's the other way around
Just got to calibrate the thing now. Just hit around 200mph sat on the drive Bloody thing doesn't want to tune down.
Massive thanks to 02GF74 for his constant help and to Mackei23B and Matt.C for answering my U2U's. Cheers lads