If its what I think you mean then the st170 doesn't have one. Although it's badged as a Duratec it is a Zetec.
What your referring to looks to operate the swirl flaps on a Duratec.
There is a canister purge solenoid. This vents the fuel vapour from the tank, into the charcoal canister then via the solenoid into the inlet
manifold.
With out it, it will give a fault code in the ecu. This may or may not affect performance.
You can unclip the canister from the solenoid and just plug it in. You could replicate the load with resistors. You could ignore it and see how you
get on.
I've done all three and the first option is the easiest.
Do you mean just plug the solenoid in? Or the canister without the solenoid?
With the diagnostic link connector, I have:
Pin two, grey/red wire,
Pin 4, black wire,
Pin 5, black/orange wire,
Pin 7, white/black wire,
Pin 10, blue/red,
Pin 13, black/orange,
Pin 16, orange wire.
If:
ECU pin 13 modal prog requires orange/black, do I connect to either pin 5 or 13 or both?
ECU pin 15 blue/black is scp-, which colour is for scp + ECU pin 16?
ECU pin 49, blue/red is can- from plug pin 10,and
ECU pin50, grey/red is can+ from plug pin 2, that is only 5 wires of 7 connected.
Are the 2 other wires used? If so where?
Sorry for so many questions. Just want to get it right.
I just have to fit the O2 sensors now having extended their leads about 30" and the OBDB2. Without these I'm getting a slow flash from the
led, but when I activate the switched 12v with ignition, it just flashes very quickly. there was no fuel pump sound either. Your thoughts would help
me as to me it could be caused by so many things like the lack of the solenoid or the canister, so please help me a little more. I still wish I had
your knowledge.
The solenoid just unclips from the canister purge valve. Just plug it in and the ecu is happy. On that front any way. The ecu can tell the circuit is
live and drawing current and that’s why it could be replaced with a dummy load.
I have the canister with the two pin connector to the top. I did not know what it was!! Tried googling the numbers with no info supplied. I gather the
solenoid connection must be near the inlet manifold. Which bit of loom if you know please?
Thanks for the info. Do I need to add chassis earths to the ecu. The brown is common. Does it connect the the car body or engine in anyway, or is it
just in the loom.
It sits on the bulkhead and connects to the inlet manifold with a hard plastic pipe. And another pipe to the fuel tank. The plug will be on the engine
bay / fuse box loom.
The common brown is shared with the sensors it does Not go to chassis earth.
There are four black / yellow wires that go to earth. They can go to the same point. There is. Fith Black / red earth that’s meant to go to a separate
earth but for testing it can go to the same place as the others.
Just reading previous post on Evap canister and hoping I haven't thrown mine away :/
I want to test my ecu immobiliser, as in your video, but I'm unsure about one of the wires (pin 2) on the PATS receiver plug, is this just an
earth. I have other connections as below.
Pin 1 - 7.5A fused +12v
Pin 2 - bk/ye wire. Is this an earth
Pin 3 - ecu 19
Pin 4 - ecu 53
I have sussed out the fuel pump, at least, it primes when ignition is on. I have practically everything connected already, and so to just do the
connection from your video to get the flashing led right will take forever to disconnect everything and then reconnect it all. Without ignition on it
flashes slowly. with it on very quickly. My obdb2 sensor is about 5 years old. Is it up to the job? With connecting it (with the correct port wires
fitted) it scans all the details but just cuts out and restarts when I try to test for faults. Any ideas why?
I have three obd2 tools one is around five years old one is well over that and they all do the basics just fine.
The light flashing quickly when powering up is the immobilizer being triggered.
It's very low power and is sensitive to position.
Power or earth fault to the antenna.
Power or earth fault to the ecu.
Send and receive the wrong way around.
You don't have to strip the loom down the point was the other circuits or lack off won't affect the immobilizer working or not.
Some times when the immobilizer is triggered and there is no fault ie the key was not close enough then you may have to disconnect from the battery to
clear it.
To add one point. you havnt purchased a flashing led have you ? It should be a plain led with around a 600 ohm resistor pre wired ( depending on
colour).
Ahaaa. It may be. I think I have some others that do not. It has a slow rhythmic flash until ignition is on. then it goes very quickly.
I have connected the O2 sensors now as well. They are the same pre and post cat on this car year.
The reader can tell if the engine is cranking at 250rpm so I guess the crank sensor works.(No spark though). It reads inlet temp and coolant temp. It
reads others that make no sense to me with my limited knowledge.But, the reader still just switches off if I press enter to check for faults.
The pump is priming. I have used as much of the standard loom as possible and feel that I have not connected something like chassis earths properly.
Should I take all the earth pins from the ecu (apart from brown) and ground them as well? Perhaps the common brown is broken somewhere.
I have connected all the inputs to the ecu where you have indicated from the pats, the fuel system, the key setup etc. Actually have you any other
diagrams of the key and ring setup with colour codes, in case I have it wrong.
Is this the time to strip down the loom to see if all the correct wires are connected from the sensors to the ecu? Should I just remove the
unnecessary wires?
I am making a fundamental error and its frustrating. Is there any way of checking the ecu itself just in case this is the problem? It may have been
blown and sold as good.The car it came from was running in limp mode and had a fault, though I cannot find out what it was. The breaker did not
mention this. I found out on thnet using its registration number which I insisted on having.
The brown is shared amongst sensors and does not go any where near chassis earth.
The five earth go to the chassis, or for testing direct to the battery negative.
You have the memory live that is always live.
You have two switched lives that become live when the ignition is turned to run.
From memory the power supply for the antenna is also a switched live.
The power supply for the DLC can be either.
You would be hard pressed to find an St170 that wasn’t in limp home mode. Two most common faults are the Imrc and the O2 sensor. There is loads of
info on the net on how to fix the Imrc.
The o2 sensors have unique plugs for pre and post, pre is green post is blue. The cheap chinease o2 sensors will plug into both so I guess you could
use what ever you have as long as you get them the correct way around.
Hi. Replaced the LED and still the same problem. I rewired it completely and it made no difference. The penny then dropped and I realised that I had
been splicing the connections in to the wires leading to the ECU from the engine loom, so I un-spliced them and just connected the wires from the pats
module to the ECU without the wires leading off into the engine loom as they had been. Bingo, the light behaved well as it should, BUT, still no
spark.
I then tried to do the same with all the other wires that I have patched into the loom (DLC, fuel pump, 12v+ to the ECU, etc). Do these connections
need to carry on into the engine loom from the ECU?
I also opened up the loom corrugated protection to see if anything was not right. The wire to the coil live feed (pin 2) went nowhere, so I fitted a
switched live. Still no spark. Then I noticed that somewhere along the line the led started its old tricks of the fast flashing. This is in the car
cockpit and the engine loom with ECU is under the bonnet. Ive now managed to get the ECU into the passengers footwell and it will fit under the
dashboard.
Also, a wire from the knock sensor went nowhere as well as one from the IMRC. I will trace all the wires and work them back to their correct
connections on the ECU. It will be next week now.
Sorry to be a pain in the backside, but your help is invaluable. If you can see that Ive made another boob please just say. Thanks mate.
