I've been trying for ages (weeks) to get my R1 (5VY) running. It'll pop and bang now and blow flames out of the exhaust and throttle
bodies!
I've checked and rechecked everything, including ignition and cam timing (Haynes manual is wrong), fuel pressure etc., but still with no luck.
I'm using the map from the previous 5JJ motor which I hoped would have been close enough to get it running.
The fact that I'm getting flames from exhaust and induction tells me that I've got the ignition (and hence injection) timing wrong, despite
having checked it several times!
The engine spec is stock 5VY with 36/1 crank trigger wheel and running on Emerald K3 ECU.
Any thoughts?
Wyn
Are you sure the 5JJ and 5VY have the same trigger wheel numbers?
Do you have the Coilpacks in the correct order?
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by worX
Do you have the Coilpacks in the correct order?
Steve
Are you not better off using the original bike ECU? Then if you want an advantage a Power Commander??
Thanks Guys
The trigger wheel is (I think!) set up correctly and I've got the coil wiring (coil on plug) right as well (again I think!) 1 & 4 and 2 &
3 are firing correctly and the injectors appear to be firing correctly, and opposite to the corresponding coil.
I've tried everything reversed etc but no go!
I'm baffled!
Wyn
quote:
Are you not better off using the original bike ECU? Then if you want an advantage a Power Commander??
Are the throttle pots the same on both setups?
Just worth a check.
Prob not the issue but I have had an MBE system not run at all other than bangs etc due to having the throttle pot not zerod properly on the map
(throttle position calibration map, setting zero throttle to zero opening)
You would think it would run at half throttle but 0.3 volts out on the zero position and it wouldn't run at all.
Ooh and the other daft one, it is inductive crank trigger not hall effect isn't it?? Daft, but some of the bosch sensors look almost identical
but are different types in similar casings, my aprilias have hall effect on the cam phase sensors and inductive on the crank angle.
Again, been there done that, the ecu doesn't like a hall input if its set for inductive.
PS "power commander and std ecu".................what!!
Stick with the proper Emerald jobbie, no question, then you can actually control things rather than guess!
[Edited on 19/5/08 by NS Dev]
NS Dev
The throttle pot is correctly calibrated and displayed in the software (and on the dash and logger - no hiding for me from now on!)
The sensor is a two wire and the ECU shows that the engine is cranking although this doesn't mean it's reading the signal correctly!
Thanks for the support on using the Emerald! I get a lot of advice to use the stock ECU and it's nice to hear somebody else who sees the benefits
of using an after market ECU!
Wyn
If you're sure all the wiring is correct, I would hazard a guess that you may have got the trigger wheel at the wrong angle....
As everyone else has said, it does sound like the timing's completely wrong.
I don't know if this diagram will help to check what you've got - I presume that the Emerald unit works in a similar way to EDIS as far as
the trigger wheel is concerned.
If it doesn't help at all - ignore me! 
Thanks guys
David - great image. I've rechecked the ignition and cam timing and it's all OK.
What I haven't got right though is the 'Tacho Signal Multiplier' figure in Emerald! Presumably this is 0.5 as the crank rotates twice
(and fires the sensor twice) for one cycle. I guess having this set to 1.000 would mean the ECU firing the coils and injectors twice as often as it
should?
Emerald1
[Edited on 19/5/08 by lsdweb]
quote:
Presumably this is 0.5