Hi all

In the spirit of Locost I purchased a JAW controller and wideband Lambda sensor a few weeks ago, the JAW arrived in the week so soldered up.

I declined the display on the basis that this is just a 5v voltmeter so ran it all up on the table just now and all looks good.

As the sensor heats you see the displays changing, using my £4 voltmeter I get a clear reading of the AFR, this will be piped into my megasquirt for logging but with two outputs on the JAW I can monitor when driving if required.

Now all I need is a better day to start mapping my car, its cold and horrible down south today.

Costs are:
Lambda Bosch LS012 ebay BIN £30
JAW shipped $46 so ~ £26
Lambda bung for exhaust £5

Its all looking very promising.


Here's a shot of the display running in free air.
Rescued attachment Jaw_screen_shot_small.JPG

Half the price of an Innovate LC1 (I paid £125 for mine) - I just wish I could solder properly!

Wish I could understand all this electronic trickery pokery

I WANT ONE!

I have not connected to my megasquirt yet, but you have a table you can edit which sets up the AFR to Vout, this is seperate for both outputs so you could emulate an Innovate easily enough and buy a cheap voltmeter for a dash display

Best thing to do is download the application and have a looksee, it kicks off without the JAW being connected.

It also has a datalogging facility for you carb chaps, just provide an RPM signal, this is held locally and downloads as a CSV extract so you do not need your laptop onboard to see and capture whats going on.

Infact the more I play with it the better it gets.

Soldering is also a doddle, I could not read the resistor values so just used a multimeter, only a few parts so took an hour to complete.

[Edited on 19/4/08 by mark chandler]

Still waiting for my kit to arrive

FYI, From PP order to arrival was around 20 days for me.

Put my order in a couple of days ago.

One task I see is to improve the config software so it fits on my crummy old laptop...

It has a setting for LC1 compatability or you can load any config you require.
I have obtained one also and hope to try it out early next week ,I am going to need to make a case for it before I can install it permanently in the car.
Paul.

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Originally posted by mark chandler
I have not connected to my megasquirt yet, but you have a table you can edit which sets up the AFR to Vout, this is seperate for both outputs so you could emulate an Innovate easily enough and buy a cheap voltmeter for a dash display

Best thing to do is download the application and have a looksee, it kicks off without the JAW being connected.

It also has a datalogging facility for you carb chaps, just provide an RPM signal, this is held locally and downloads as a CSV extract so you do not need your laptop onboard to see and capture whats going on.

Infact the more I play with it the better it gets.

Soldering is also a doddle, I could not read the resistor values so just used a multimeter, only a few parts so took an hour to complete.

[Edited on 19/4/08 by mark chandler]

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Trouble is, most of that forum's been trashed by spam. I don't think the site owner has the skills to block it (he has called for help from anyone who can).

UPDATE!

I just had a look - someone's had a clear-out, so maybe the spam problem's been addressed.

[Edited on 20/4/08 by David Jenkins]

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Originally posted by robocog
Ordered my sensor as well yesterday, hopefully the right one (LSU 4.2)@£35 I'm as excited as an excited thing

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Unsure - watch this space!

The 6th wire goes to the plug and connects to the calibration resistor built into the sensor plug.As long as the coulors are matched it will be correct,I have a couple of Nissan sensors which are LU4.2 s but with a rectangular conector and will be experimenting with them.
Paul.

The one with the wires in a row is the sensor I used, do not worry about the connections as they are 1 - 1 through the plug, the 6th one has something internal, to do with free air calibration so you just match colours, green being the missing one.

The kit came with some crimps for the plug, the plastic heads on these are to large, you need to cut off the plastic shields, solder on the wire then put some shrink warp over the top as insulation.

I used a short bit of trailer board wire as this has all the colours you need + one spare.

Regards Mark

Thinking about adding a display now so Ebay will spring me a nice panel mounted 20v DC meter, take the 5v source power from board and away I go.

This should give me a good dash mountable solution for £7 so cheaper than the JAW display.
Rescued attachment LED display.jpg

Will you connect it to the second ouput and configure it in volts or to the original display connector? I cant find a circuit diagram for the JAW so dont know how the original is configured.
I saw some similiar displays on ebay but will a 20v one have the correct reolution to read 0 - 5v as it needs to be a 3 digit resolution? ie 14.7 afr needs to read 1.47 volts 20- 1 2.00 volts and 10- 1 1.00 volts
Paul

quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
Thinking about adding a display now so Ebay will spring me a nice panel mounted 20v DC meter, take the 5v source power from board and away I go.

This should give me a good dash mountable solution for £7 so cheaper than the JAW display.

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I have got mine working today, was a bit confused at first as the screen readings didnt change but could read the calibration value etc and write settings to unit .Eventually realised that the display on right half of screen doesnt work until you click the datalog button.Then tried it with a blowlamp as a fuel source and all works ok.
Best bit is it works with the 2 sensors I bought off Ebay some time back for £5 each brand new.
Just need to work out how to put it in a case and keep the voltage regulator for the sensor heater cool, as it gets very hot at present, i may remove it from the board and attach with flying leads to allow me to mount it on the case.
Paul.

It's amazing just how hot a voltage regulator can get, even when it's running well within the limits.

I think that I'll put my unit in a metal case I've got, and use a small fan to blow some air across the heatsink. I think Maplins sell a small 12v fan that'll do the trick.

The LM 317 regulator puts out 5v at 1.5 amps so pinching a few milli amps to power the display should not cause an issue. As above once the sensor is hot on a running engine the heat should fall away from the regulator as the load drops right away.

I need to have a measure up on my megasquirt case as I may combine into one package, small PC fan and move the regulator on to the case may be the easy option.

In answer to the other question, you get two 5v out's on the board, you can map the afr across these independantly so I can emulate an LC1 for megasquirt and punt something else for the display.

As the numbers to be on the display will be meaningless I can set 2.5v as correct mixture and have a sliding scale either side to cover the whole range, need to have a play.

Roll on the weekend, ebay purchase on the display just now and china shipping usually beats UK suppliers in my experience.

This is the chap I ended up with, 0 - 20v as its powered linkthe unpowered ones run 7-20v


[Edited on 21/4/08 by mark chandler]

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Originally posted by David Jenkins
It's amazing just how hot a voltage regulator can get, even when it's running well within the limits.

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Originally posted by MikeRJ

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Originally posted by David Jenkins
It's amazing just how hot a voltage regulator can get, even when it's running well within the limits.

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If it gets that hot it probably isn't running within it's limits, or is marginal. People very often just see the maximum current capability of a regulator and don't consider power dissipation which is a separate issue.

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Anyone know of a good source for a connector for the 6066 sensor?

The only place that came up in Google was this one.. The price wasn't bad, even including postage, but trying to place an order was dreadful! I would have to prove who I am before they would accept an order for a total of Au$15 - around £4 or £5! Proving my identity could be done in various ways, such as sending a photocopy of my driving licence, letting them interrogate PayPal for my verified address (a legit way, I hasten to add) and various other intrusive methods. I decided to leave them alone.

What a bunch of...<insert favourite word>!

I also need to find a source of connectors for mine, my sensor is a nissan fitment and has a rectangular connector.I have been looking for ages but not found a supplier, but do now have a bosch part number so need to find a good bosch auto electrician, i asked in a local place with no success.I suspect mine is also used on GM vechiles and is the sensor type used with the AEM wideband.
Paul.
Paul

The JAW supplied crimps do work as long as you lose the plastic tops, I did consider cutting away the shroud exposing the pins then just soldering on wires. If the crimps had failed this was option 2 for me. When done its all burried in gaffer tap anyway. I would worry about spending the extra if you fail on the supplied stuff.

An alternative is just to use thicker wire, force a tack or small nail inside the insulator to stretch it then just push the whole wire down over the pin.

I have connected mine using the supplied crimps with the insulator cut off also, it does work but the correct connector would be nice.I had considered using the crimps and then filling the space between them with potting compound or epoxy resin.
Paul.

quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
The JAW supplied crimps do work as long as you lose the plastic tops, I did consider cutting away the shroud exposing the pins then just soldering on wires. If the crimps had failed this was option 2 for me. When done its all burried in gaffer tap anyway. I would worry about spending the extra if you fail on the supplied stuff.

An alternative is just to use thicker wire, force a tack or small nail inside the insulator to stretch it then just push the whole wire down over the pin.

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I placed an order with them in the end!

Not quite as bad as I thought it would be, mostly because I used PayPal. This meant that they could verify my address without faffing around.

I'll let you know how long it takes, and how good the product is, when it arrives.

quote:

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Originally posted by David Jenkins
Anyone know of a good source for a connector for the 6066 sensor?

The only place that came up in Google was this one.. The price wasn't bad, even including postage, but trying to place an order was dreadful! I would have to prove who I am before they would accept an order for a total of Au$15 - around £4 or £5! Proving my identity could be done in various ways, such as sending a photocopy of my driving licence, letting them interrogate PayPal for my verified address (a legit way, I hasten to add) and various other intrusive methods. I decided to leave them alone.

What a bunch of...<insert favourite word>!

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