ash_hammond
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 07:39 AM |
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Ignore the above
That will teach me to write a post pre 9am in the morning with reading it back to my self... so here is what i really wanted to say..
Many thanks for the posts, you have just confirmed what i was thinking and the theme throughout the post is "check the adjustment".......
i am now off for a cuppa and hopefully a fruitfull day in the garage awaits me.
cheers
Ash 
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
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jos
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 08:19 AM |
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I havent been able to see the pics yet as my 56k connection takes too long to wait
Lessons learnt from my brake bleeding times were
1. Make sure the bias valve is round the right way. I assume this has been done as youre getting fluid out of the rear cylinders.
2. Make sure the bleed nipple/valve on the cylinder is at the highest point on the backplate. As previously noticed, we ZR owners dont like our
cylinders at 12 oclock and like to have them at either 3 or 9 oclock. whichever it is (3 or 9) make sure the brake hose flexi goes into the bottom of
the cylinder (without chaffing the suspension arms (add a bit of a twist which will sort it out if they do)) and that the bleed nipple is at the top,
otherwise youll turn up to sva like i did and nearly have a prohibition noticed served on you. Not good.
3. Make sure the front hose flexis are connected to the calipers
4. (assuming your setup is the same as mine) start on the back left, then the back right, then the front left and lastly the front right wheel (bleed
sequence) but it sounds as though youve done this so i'll keep thinking about your prob and try to look at your pics on a bb connection.
Mark & Colin probably have some time on their hands and as your local they might have withdrawl symptoms and be able to help in person. I hear
theyll do anything for a cappocino with chocolate sprinkles
.: Motorsport / motor racing circuit / track wall art Apex Traxs :.
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TangoMan
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 10:29 AM |
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I suspect it is the G valve.
You will not find an adjuster screw on the backplate as these are self adjusting.
It will not be air as you would have a very spongy pedal.
Before you adjust them make sure all adjustment is off the handbrake cable. Adjust the brakes and then the handbrake.
The adjustment works from the toothed wheels on the metal bar connecting the two shoes near the top. These commonly sieze but can be adjusted manually
by levering one shoe out from centre with a screwdriver. Do small bits a a time and keep retrying the drum to ensure you do not overdo it.
When you have fully adjusted them and they still don't work, have a beer and then change the valve. 
Summer's here!!!!
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ash_hammond
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 10:58 AM |
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Jos, spoke to Mark this morning, he had seen the thread and gave same advice. As posted ^ , i have adjusted the shoes using the self adjusting
mechanism, the shoes now fit nice and snugg inside the drum. With the drum off someone pressed the brake pedal while i watched the cylinder (which is
brand new one) and there is very little movement in the cylinder at all, 2mm at the most the cylinder is not moving out to the shoes. Which says to
me the system still has some air playing hide and seek.
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
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athoirs
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 11:28 AM |
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before you change the g valve ( which are crap) try giving my suggestion a go it wont take long..
dont you just love drum brakes... NOT
most of them look like they have been designed by a five year old...
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ash_hammond
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 12:08 PM |
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Whilst having another go a bleeding the brakes i have found a leaking "T" piece, the one which the brake switch goes into, only a small
leek, so refitted that "T" peice and we will have another go after lunch. Await results of round 59.
ash
.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 03:17 PM |
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Doh! That'll probably solve your problems once bled fully.
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