Hi guys,
As a new owner of a Mac#1 Worx ZX10 I have a request for info please. Can anyone tell me the capacity of the fuel tank, advise on track day tyre pressures, estimates on track day fuel consumption and wheel nut torque settings. Help gratefully received.
Andy

The only part I can offer any help with is tyre pressure's
I run 16 psi on all four, but other 7 users have varied from as low as 14 to the mid 20's
anything higher than mid 20;s will result in your car feeling like your driving on ball bearings

steve

Ref the fuel capacity, easiest way to work it out is go to the garage with it empty and tank it

Could well be a custom tank, if you know for sure its a Mac1 supplied tank give them a call, very friendly/helpful tbh.

Trackday mpg will be around 12mpg, thats what I got with my Zx10r.

[Edited on 24/3/15 by PAUL FISHER]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PAUL FISHER
Trackday mpg will be around 12mpg, thats what I got with my Zx10r.

[Edited on 24/3/15 by PAUL FISHER]

---

Thanks for the replies, lets me know how much fuel to take this weekend. Time to check the tyre pressures.

Fuel tank could be anything from a 2 gallon sprint tank to a custom 10 gal'. Average common or garden kit car tank is around the 6 gal' mark. You can either empty it and then brim it or do a few measurements (in cm's) and work out the volume. WxHxL/1000 = cap' in litres

Most BEC owners run between 16-20psi. Check them hot though asit can make a big difference on track.

Fuel usage on track could be anything from 8-20mpg. My R1 will do anything from up to 35 cruising, 25 spirited driving on road and down to 15-20 on track.

Wheel nuts around 90nm.

if its the standard Mac#1 tank it will be approx. 32ltrs ....

I've just removed mine and happened to measure it to work out the current capacity compared to the replacement one I'm about to have fabricated ............

Fuel @ 0.6litres/min if "on it."

Thanks for all the replies.
Found that the fuel tank is circa 20 lts, went to a wet Blyton, never got the tyres to full temperature to check pressures, spun off at the bottom end coming out of Bishops, found that my moving seat issue was not me being too heavy (although that is the case, must diet) but rivets stripped from the floor/frame so retired to fix.
Cheers again,
Andy.

Pain your day was cut short.

Rivets holding seats to anything doesn't sound too good, which parts of seat were they holding together?

Re read my post and it was not too clear, sorry.

Moved the seat forward, prior to the track day, to suit my leg length after purchase and found it pitched back and forth as I accelarated and braked, but thought it was down to "body size" and the seat flexing, as the seats are built as standard for someone slimmer than I am. Only once at Blyton during the afternoon did I happened to move the seat while looking at the floor and notice that the floor was pivoting downwards. Spoke to Colin at Mac 1 and he said it is possible to remove the rivet heads on speed bumps etc if the driver is of a heavier weight than "normal", which applies to the two previous owners too, hence my floor had come detached from the frame. On inspection all the rivets from the frame rail behind the seat except the outside one had failed and 7 from the back rail forward on the transmission tunnel rail.

Have to say a bit disappointing but will be fixed tomorrow once work rota is completed today. Then it will be tested on the road and back to Blyton hopefully on the 20th May, with the plan being to do the Nordschleife later in the year.

So your seats are not fitted to some steel bars welded to chassis?

Description

You can see the flat steel bar across the floors where my seats bolt through in the pic above, mines a Mac1 toom

Hi,
No there are no other chassis rails or metal mounting bars apart from the one in front of the seat and the one behind the rear bulkhead

I would be getting some welded in, not a big job tbh.

I know some people say seats bolted through the alloy floor with large spreader washers are ok, but not a sniff I would have mine like that!