chockymonster
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posted on 24/9/06 at 10:17 PM |
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Column link to rack connection
Guys,
I've mounted the rack and tried to connect the rack to the column but I'm either having a dense moment or something just isn't
right.
The link bar is too short.
With the link attached to the very end of the column like this ....
Rack link - Column end
The other end is too short.
Rack link - Rack end
I've checked that the triangular shaft isn't too short and it's spot on the length mentioned in the haynes manual.
(Excuse the top part but I don't have anything else to hold it in place.)
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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G.Man
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posted on 25/9/06 at 01:27 AM |
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pull thr triangle bit out of the steering column, its compressed slightly
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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nick205
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posted on 25/9/06 at 07:11 AM |
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that's the answer, I had to do the same on mine - hold the triangular section in a vice and the tap the outer section of the column to extend
it.
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Winston Todge
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posted on 25/9/06 at 11:38 AM |
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Ditto the others.
Just curious as to what you're using to compress the triangular section into the extension? Looks like 1mm thick piece of ally sheet? The
standard mount is a 5mm thick piece of steel.
May not be a problem but you don't want that letting go or wearing through at any point!
Plus I also found that the extension to rack link with the serrated teeth was poor due to over powder coating on the extension. This meant that when
you attached the extension and turned the rack to full lock and then gave it a little more pressure, the extension to rack link would let go and
effectively give you no steering!
I solved this by taking a needle triangle file and recutting every tooth on the rack and extension. I also took a small amount out from inbetween the
pinch fitting to allow it to pinch a little more than standard.
The scary thing is that if I hadn't given the steering wheel a good handful of lock it may never have slipped until I was on the track, or worse
the road.
BTW Paul I spent 4 and a half hours getting my clutch pedal correct for feel, bite and throw. As I'm sure it has a major effect on the
driveability of the car.
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chockymonster
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posted on 25/9/06 at 11:48 AM |
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I'll have to work out a way of extending it without a vice.
As for the plate, at the moment it's a 1mm piece of ally just to hold it in place whilst I'm faffing. There wasn't anything else to
hold it together with the link bar. I've fashioned up something a bit beefier but it's still ally which I'm not happy with. It may
just have been left out after powder coating. I'm composing an essay to Chris at the moment so I'll mention it.
I haven't removed the powdercoating in the splined end yet, I do need to as I can't get it onto the rack at the moment!
I know what you mean about clutch feel, engaging the clutch at the moment feels ok I just can't let it out as the cable snags as I do.
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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G.Man
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posted on 25/9/06 at 12:08 PM |
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put a hose clamp around it and tap it down with a mallet..
Its not a tight fit
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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amalyos
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posted on 25/9/06 at 12:58 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by chockymonster
I'll have to work out a way of extending it without a vice.
Top Marks to that man if you've managed to build a car without a vice.
I don't know what I would have done without mine, it was the first thing I bought.
Steve
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marc n
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posted on 26/9/06 at 06:48 AM |
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mole grips and a suitable tapping device
please email rather than u2u
direct workshop email ( manned 8am till 6pm )
www.mnrltd.co.uk enquireys to :-
chrismnrltd@btinternet.com
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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chockymonster
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posted on 26/9/06 at 09:42 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by marc n
mole grips and a suitable tapping device
Worked like a charm. Now all I have to do is persuade the other end to actually fit the rack!
Just out of interest, am I going about fixing the rack in a really hamfisted way?
The only way I could drill the hole was to mark it and then remove the shock (inboard) so I could centrepunch and drill properly. There's no
clearance to get a rightangled drill, a dremel or a hammerin and I didn't fancy trying to transpose it onto the underside and then end up being
miles out.
I've got one more hole to drill, it's been marked but I really couldn't be bothered to remove the other shock on Sunday
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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