Winston Todge
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 01:05 PM |
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Where to start MNR build then?? 8D
Hey all,
Well after a long break getting my life a little more stable again, the time has finally arrived to start building up the kit!
I've sourced the wheels, engine, kit with fuel tank, pedal box and all the donor parts. So the remaining large purchases are loom, seats,
lights, propshaft, cradle and digidash.
I have read, read, modified and then re-read the build manual a few times now, but have still heard that there are a few things that can be done in a
different order to make the build a little more straight forward? Any tips from you MNR builders on here? Richie, Smart51, Rog and Mark (GMan) any
input.
I have already read the thread on sundries that'll help, like bolts and bits and have sourced most of these. Just curious as to any others?
Any tips would be much appreciated!
Chris.
Got my engine from Malc yesterday too... 8D
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Howlor
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 01:12 PM |
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Go make a cup of tea first!
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Howlor
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 01:16 PM |
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The main thing I would say is to have a good picture in your mind of how you wish the car to look when it's finished. Try not to cut corners to
save time or money as inevitably it will not then look as you wished it to at the start. Spend time and money on parts that are visable and keep it
neat.
Steve
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shortie
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 01:36 PM |
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Cup of tea and some planning can work wonders!
Couple of things I found....
Keep as positive as you can, try not to get disheartend if you get things wrong slightly, I used to think all the cars I looked at were perfect but
when you start to look in detail they all have minor mistakes which are usually easily rectified or disguised.
If you think a job will take you 30 mins then double it, it always takes longer than you think and if it doesn't then it's a bonus and you
can start something else.
Look at the whole build as a learning experience and NEVER be afraid to ask others question no matter how silly you think it might be, chances are
it's not silly and someone has come across the same issue before.
When it comes to wiring don't panic! at first it may seem complicated but once you get going and in reality it isn't and it's pretty
logical once you get into it.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll be fine.
Rich.
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amalyos
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 01:44 PM |
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Some tips to look out for:
Depending on Chassis number (mine is #28), make sure your fuel tank is close to the chassis at the front corners (5mm but not touching!!), otherwise
when you fit the body, the rear of the tank touches the body. I had to make new straps with the body in place (didn't want to risk removing it),
it was a pig of a job 
Check your prop shaft goes down the tunnel, I had to dismantle the rear UJ and reassemble it in the tunnel
Get a Dremmel type drill (mine was a bargain £15 from Aldi) its a must when cutting the body.
Overall I have had no major problems, so far I have all the rear suspension fitted and the main body cut, fuel tank and all pipes and loom fitted,
just about to start on the front suspension.
Good luck and enjoy 
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smart51
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 02:10 PM |
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Put the prop shaft in before the diff.
Do all of the pedal box and footwell aly panels before fitting the body work.
Do buy a dremmel. It is an absolute must. I spent perhaps 1/2 of my build filing by hand. Buy a dremmel.
Don't rush.
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Agriv8
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 02:21 PM |
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I know its a novel idea but I would follow the build CD ?  .
loom and lines first
All the Best
Agriv8
[Edited on 14/2/06 by Agriv8]
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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NS Dev
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 04:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by shortie
Cup of tea and some planning can work wonders!
Couple of things I found....
Keep as positive as you can, try not to get disheartend if you get things wrong slightly, I used to think all the cars I looked at were perfect but
when you start to look in detail they all have minor mistakes which are usually easily rectified or disguised.
If you think a job will take you 30 mins then double it, it always takes longer than you think and if it doesn't then it's a bonus and you
can start something else.
Look at the whole build as a learning experience and NEVER be afraid to ask others question no matter how silly you think it might be, chances are
it's not silly and someone has come across the same issue before.
When it comes to wiring don't panic! at first it may seem complicated but once you get going and in reality it isn't and it's pretty
logical once you get into it.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll be fine.
Rich.
Some of the best car building advice you will ever read!!!
Especially the bit about thinking everybody elses car is perfect, so very true, how many times have I gone though that one in my mind!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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zetec
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 04:26 PM |
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Built an MK but not a lot different. Get the chassis up in the air on some strong stands. Far easier to run brake lines when you can crawl all around
the car. get the engine and fuel lines in before the electrics so the loom can be measured for correct lengths and easier to fix off the ground. I
fitted the wishbones and hubs early as it looks like a car sooner...only to end up removing them to fit other stuff! Don't forget though you
will need to get the car off the stands at some point! It might be light but 450KG 3ft off the ground still demands some careful lifting to get it
down.
Lastly "good luck".
" I only registered to look at the pictures, now I'm stuck with this username for the rest of my life!"
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 04:59 PM |
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Hiya Chris,
Ive updated my build diary and Ill add todays uddate tonight but I went:
Brake pipes, fuel pipe(carfeul as it kinks easily), loom, pedals/cylinders, tank then diff. Ive just read what Amalyos said about the tank/bodywork
and mines pretty far forward, hopefully therell be enough clearance. I made an ar5e of one of my straps so had to remake one, looks fine now but I
found it a bit fiddly.
Ive always been of the mind set, take how long you think a job will take and double it, you wont be far wrong. Its taken me 3 days up to this point
and Im ready for the bodywork. Ive had a few setbacks like a rivnut not setting properly into the tank meaning I had to take the sender back out and
re drill it but nothing major.
As for extra sundires, make sure you have loads of (particularly smaller 5mm ish) P Clips for the brake lines. I didnt have enough as Ive used them
fairly regularly. Ive run out and had to swap to white - yuck. No biggy though, theyre easily swapped over when I get some more black and any I cant
swap cant be seen anyway! Nuts and bolts wise, have a look at whats needed in the build manual for things like handbrake (M8 x 30/washers/nuts), diff
(M12 x 50/washers to space/M14 nuts to space), column and rack (M10 I think) etc and source these in advance.
As for the diff vs propshaft debate. MNR now supply the propshaft after the engine is fitted as they have them made to your mesurements. Im not sure
if there is much of a change with the new chassis but either, theres more room to get it in (doubtful) or they meant it to be split and re assembled
in the tunnel. I asked Chris whether there was any change to the order of things if you dont have the prop til later and he reckoned not. I read
Amalyos' worries when he had to do this but hopefully it wont be too scary. I wont have my engine for another 3 months or so (bl00dy work) so
that job is down on the list.
Thats just about all the help I can offer for now, will be nice to keep this thread going cos theres loads of things that Im sure we'll all come
across during the build.
Which build CD do you have? The new website says its a 90 page one but mine is 59, there are some photos missing from a couple of parts like steering
column/rack, are everyone elses the same or is Word bu66ering about?
Good luck and kind rgds
Rich
edit1: just to say the pivot bar into the brass top hats on the pedals was very tight. I gave it a bit of work so that it was a tight but not
impossible fit and used M16 washers to space the pedals from the pedal box. Youll see what I mean wen you look at it, as per the build maual/RogBs
site but nobody had M16 washers locally, I had to travel for them.
edit2: dont be a divvy like me and put the passenger side footwell panel on the passenger compartment side rather than the engine compartment side -
again no great issue but I kicked myself when I realised, at least I fitted it first and realised when i did the drivers side so I wasnt that thick
Off to fit me interior panels..................
[Edited on 14/2/06 by RichieC]
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 07:55 PM |
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That is absolutely fantastic people! Thank you!
I have provisional arrangements to bring the kit down this weekend and then to begin building on Monday.
The other half is on a job in Gloucester for the next few weeks so I'll be able to get a few hours in the garage every night before she makes it
back to give me gentle persuasive suggestions relating to dirty dishes and grease marks on the walls...
Great advice so far too!
Very interesting about the tank Amalyos, never heard about that one...
As for the propshaft, I have a question about Torque Resilient Tubed props. Do they fit in the tunnel? Plus are they harder to dismantle? I heard from
a few peeps that it's quite a tight fit...
When people say that the prop has to be split to fit. Does this mean that the diff and engine can be fitted and then the prop afterwards?
Again thanks for taking the time to post here all. (Rich, that is one long reply!) Plus I reckon it's a good idea to keep it running too.
It'd be a great place to centralise little hints and tips on VortX building.
Cheers again,
Chris.
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Daft Lad Picko
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 08:55 PM |
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Tips I'm able to give so far:
Drill both ally bulkhead panels (the ones actually down the transmission tunnel) before riveting otherwise you won't get a drill in
(riveter's hard enough). Some of my rivets are not entirely flush, but it's back to the old addage, no-ones car's perfect.
The brass bushes for the brake pedals are damn tight if you don't remove the powder coating on the inside of the pedal tubes. This is a 2 minute
job and will save you 2 1/2 hours of swearing whilst rying to get the feckin' pedals out again.
When fitting the engine (R1) the prop drive looks way off to the offside. Marc assures me this is okay, so "don't worry, just keep bolting
it together and it will all make sense" to quote a rather short shaggy haired bloke from Harrogate way on!
Don't forget to put sealant between all your ally panels BEFORE riveting them. You don't need to drill them off again (ARSE!)
I neeeded to make a couple of shims to go between the pedal box and the ally bulkhead panel, allow for this as it is time consuming.
If you can stretch to it get a compressor, an air "dremel", an air drill, a hydraulic riviter (the best fookin' tool ever!!!!) and
an air powered metal trimmer. It's a piece of p*ss to change the tools and sounds damn good too!
Buy your mates loads of cans of stella and they will help you!
DO NOT rush. As mentioned before ask any question no matter how stupid (look at some of the mistakes I have made and I consider myself to be
reasonably intelligent, mechanically competant and big headed - obviously).
Get an account with screw-fix direct (ont' interweb), next day free delivery and all the nuts and bolts you'll ever need.
Tap Marc for knowledge if you are really stuck, he seems to know what he's talking about.
Get on this forum on a daily basis, you'll find most of your questions have already been asked and answered.
Cheers
Neil
There are two prices....the real one and the one you tell the wife!
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 10:22 PM |
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Just a quickie from me, is it possible to fit the interior panels after the bodywork?
The build manual lists it after the bodywork, but I note others have done them first.
Is it much harder if you do it after?
Thanks
Rich
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 10:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Just a quickie from me, is it possible to fit the interior panels after the bodywork?
yes, the plastic is bendy enough to get them in under the lip of the bodywork. i havent fitted yet mine, but what i DID do was to pre-notch the
panels when the chassis was almost bare as it was easier.
i'll post some more tips for you when i get a chance. work is keeping me busy :O
-Rog
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 10:31 PM |
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Yeh, I suspected theyd be OK but didnt want to have to remove the bodywork again.
Thanks mate
Richie
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 10:49 PM |
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Just remembered another tip. When laying the brake and fuel lines, you can either go over the reverse box mounting plate or under it. It seemed
obvious to me to go under it to keep the runs smooth. However, it soon became apparent that my P clips werent a maximum of 6" apart in that
area - oops. It was very nearly a pull them out and start again, but the reverse box mount is 5" so providing you can get a rivet/p clip into
the 1/2" at either side, youre OK. I did and mine are within the 6" but it may be easier to route them over the top to save the heart
stopper I gave myself
Rgds
Richie
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 11:30 PM |
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Just wondering if anyone has a 90 page build manual they could post or maybe ftp to me? It would be good to host a full build manual on my site for
others to use... www.mnrvortxr1.co.uk
And yeah Richie, it's not Word. I have a 60 page manual too.
Any help'd be appreciated muchly,
Chris.
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smart51
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| posted on 15/2/06 at 08:01 AM |
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Yeah, put the brake pipes over the reverse mounting plate. It is almost impossible to do it under. I managed but not very well.
I think that MNR run all the pipes and wiring over the top of the tunnel tubes rather than along the floor like the online build manaual said.
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amalyos
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| posted on 15/2/06 at 10:11 AM |
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This could turn into a very good discussion, with so many of us at around the same stage.
Lets keep this for build information and try not to divert onto other issues, like many other threads.
I'll have a few hours in the garage tonight, starting on the front suspension, so watch this space
Steve
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RichieC
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| posted on 15/2/06 at 09:26 PM |
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Hi all,
Silly question of the day, how do you tell which side front upper bone is which?
Edit: Fronts are boss up and biased to the rear
Rears are boss biased to the front
Richie
[Edited on 16/2/06 by RichieC]
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amalyos
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| posted on 15/2/06 at 09:48 PM |
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Didn't get very far tonight, some of the threads in the front suspension are not cut fully (looks like only the first cut tap has been used).
I can get a RH 1/2" UNF tap, but a LH one seems hard to find, anyone got any ideas, other than sending my parts back up to MNR.
I've got the Inboard suspension, and in some pics I took at MNR it looks like the rocker needle bearings run on the bolt, I don't like
that idea, so I plan to get a threaded shaft made. Has anyone else fitted the Inboard Suspension yet?
Steve.
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RichieC
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| posted on 15/2/06 at 09:52 PM |
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Nah afraid not mate, I went for the cheap skate outboard Which threads are th problem?
Rich
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amalyos
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| posted on 15/2/06 at 10:11 PM |
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The wishbone threads are fine, its the compression shaft up to the inboard rocker that has the thread problem
I'll have to call a few friends tomorrow to see if anyone has one.
Steve.
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RichieC
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| posted on 16/2/06 at 03:00 PM |
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Todays silly question:
Spring Weights, 8.35 and 8.25, is it 8.35 to the front?
Thanks
Rich
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G.Man
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| posted on 17/2/06 at 08:33 AM |
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Main tip I would give every MNR builder, is to remove the powder coat on ANY mating surface, and run taps down every threaded powder coated
component...
If not you will find the parts work loose all the time, or, they will be an utter bitch to assemble....
Other than that, its bloody useful having Marc on hand... lol
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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