Hi Guys

looking for some advice. My 2003 R1 has been having problems intermittently with the revs hanging and randomly stalling this seems to be getting worse. I thought originally it was a faulty TPS, however I ended up buying a replacement set of throttle bodies which came with a tps sensor on it so have replaced the lot. Ive checked in the diagnostics mode and the readings seem ok 18 closed and 95 open, the reading also go up smoothly when you press the throttle. Below is a you tube clip to show what I mean, in the video I only blip the throttle I don't hold it open at any point but it just hangs there, then after a short while it just stalls ?????

Any thoughts would be much appreciated, its starting to drive me mad !!

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sVrDKM3tNMQ


[Edited on 6/8/13 by Markyb13]

[Edited on 6/8/13 by Markyb13]

Thanks, just realised the original link wasn't working, I've updated it now
Cheers

Not sure if it has an air flow meter but if it does that's a possibility or an air leak on the inlet somewhere ?

quote:

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Originally posted by Markyb13
Thanks, just realised the original link wasn't working, I've updated it now
Cheers

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Is the throttle actually shutting when you lift off? If you can access the mechanism at the engine end, try to see if they move back under their own as soon as you release the pedal. If not, it could be a sticky accelerator pedal or cable. You could try disconnecting the cable at the throttle bodies, to rule all of that out.

If all if that is ok, then I would agree an air leak would be needed to allow the engine to rev. Remember that an engine only revs when it has air and fuel to do so, therefore to hang at 3k there must be a reasonable amount of both going in!

Is this a new build? Have you had it mapped or have a Power Commander fitted?

Hi, yes it does have a power commander, the build was completed and passed iva earlier this year after about 18 myths build time.
I have changed the throttle bodies, so had removed the airbox etc so is is possible there could be an air leak somewhere I suppose.
I haven't had it mapped, just downloaded a map from the power commander website, it has a scorpion exhaust can fitted with stock airbox with k& n air filter fitted.
I did have these symptoms before I changed the throttle bodies which makes it even more of a head scratcher !!

Do have you checked your cable and pedal are running smoothly, and the throttle return is doing its job correctly?

Cable and pedal seem ok, it seems to do it intermittently, sometimes it's not bad other times it really bad ???

Have you fitted an additional return spring, on the bike the throttle spindle has 2x cables for more or less throttle when you turn the handle, one pulling on and one pulling off. On a car you don't have this so with the standard throttle spring they can hang the revs and be slow to return.
On mine I fitted another accelerator cable end in but with only a couple of inches of cable looped off at the end with a crimp connector and fixed up a mid strength spring to this loop and to the manifold to assist with returning the throttle.

I used to have the revs stick on intermittently but this sorted it right out.

Hi
We did similar to Scuzzle
using the original bike cables one to throttle assy
and one with spring to oil filler cap, kills 2 birds with one stone
you get a nice return, which solved our similar problem to yours
& the oil filler cap can't come undone, which they can/have with disastrous
results.
Crude sketch I know but gives you the gist of things.
Good luck
René


Bike cables

Here's how I fitted throttle return spring. Similar to Scuzzle and Rene

Short throttle cable on the return side, couple of 5p's with holes drilled in, medium spring, and a cable clamp. works a treat.

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I'm going to try and get in the garage today at some point and have another look at the throttle cable, I do already have a spring fitted but this is on the peddle end to aid return, I'll let you know how I get on, thanks again for you replies.

quote:

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Originally posted by Markyb13
Thanks guys for the suggestions, I'm going to try and get in the garage today at some point and have another look at the throttle cable, I do already have a spring fitted but this is on the peddle end to aid return, I'll let you know how I get on, thanks again for you replies.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Slater
Here's how I fitted throttle return spring. Similar to Scuzzle and Rene

Short throttle cable on the return side, couple of 5p's with holes drilled in, medium spring, and a cable clamp. works a treat.

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Right... I have checked the throttle cable and all seems fine, I already had a spring on the pedal end and he spring at the other end on the throttle bodies is quite heafty so the cable springs back well and is pretty instant. When I start the engine for the first time and the choke is out it ticks over about 2000rpm and is relatively smooth, it's when it's warmed up and it drops to about 1100-1300 rpm when the revs seem to fluctuate by about 400rpm then after a short while it stalls!
I have double checked the throttle bodies, as I had changed them in case they weren't sitting down properly but all looks fine to me.
I thought I would list the things I have changed already to see if anyone can narrow it down if possible, so far I have changed the throttle position sensor, the injectors, the coils, the throttle bodies, ok most other bits were not brand new but came off of a working bike with no issues.
I haven't driven it for nearly 2 weeks now which it's frustrating with the decent weather we've had for the fear that it will keep stalling every time the revs drop or the opposite when I pull up to a junction or a set of lights with the engine reving it's nuts off and looking like a right pillock!
I can't help thinking its some sort of sensor issue, I did check the tps again, it goes from 17 to 95 which seems to be within the correct parameters, however it does seem to flick between 17 & 18, short clip below to show what I mean, also when I tried to start it while in diagnostic mode (not sure if your meant to do this?) the numbers seemed to flick around a bit 12,13,15 etc.... And didn't start not sure if ths is because I was in diagnostic mode or at I may had run the battery down by keep starting it and not having driven it for a while?





Thanks again for all your responses so far, especially the the one where you've used 5p's Fantastic

Hi all

Just an update on my stalling/fluctuating idle issue.
After changing pretty much every bloody sensor, it turns out it was an issue with the digital earth on my power commander which takes a feed off of a common earth for some of the sensors on he engine, only discovered it by accident, don't know what made me do it but I un plugged the (brand new) tps when the engine was running and it instantly starting ticking over lovely, plugged it back in ran like crap...... After checking the wires individually It turned out the digital earth was drawing too much current and affecting the other sensors, now given it its own earth and she runs better than ever

I've now got a spare set of complete throttle bodies, with working tps sensor (very clean) plus another spare tps and a spare set of coils in case anyone with a 5pw r1 is looking for replacements.

Thanks to th guys who replied in h first place.
Cheers

Appreciate this is a huge bump of an old thread, but just wanted to say thanks for adding your solution at the end of it. Nothing more frustrating than reading a thread like this and not finding the final cure!

I developed similar issues yesterday and running a separate earth for the Power Commander seems to have sorted it for me too.... Thanks again!