thepest
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posted on 3/6/07 at 05:55 AM |
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Aluminum treatment
Is there anything I could particularly use to polish/treat the aluminum of my locost to a matt finish?
I use the car for racing and it inevitebly gets those fine scratches on the surface and the aluminum gets quite dirty.
Has anyone done anything to prevent this?
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Humbug
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posted on 3/6/07 at 06:53 AM |
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What I did was to wash off the dirt and then use a Scotch pad to rub it down to an even "brushed" finish. I got the pad from a DIY store -
it was intended for rubbing down painted wood, I think.
If the scratches are minimal there are probably polishing treatments that you could use, but for me they would involve too much hard work, and the ali
panels were already a bit manky, so they were never going to look perfect
[Edited on 03.06.2007 by Humbug]
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RazMan
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posted on 3/6/07 at 06:53 AM |
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I think you are rather limited to paint after you've rivetted all the panels on. Clear or silver anodizing would make the alloy weather proof
and give it a nice satin finish - also adds some strength too as it hardens the outer skin, but this needs doing after the panels are cut and ready to
fit.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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thepest
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posted on 3/6/07 at 08:10 AM |
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I'll try the scotch pad,but maybe paint looks like the answer, is this a job I can do myself or do I have to take it to a professional sprayer?
What sort of primer (if any) should I use?
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Hellfire
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posted on 3/6/07 at 08:10 AM |
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Caustic Soda - found in some drain cleaners. I used it for etching the engine reed valve covers.
Put it on - it takes about 10 minutes to burn a matt flat dull grey finish... wash it off. It's very dangerous stuff though so be careful!
Have a look at this site HERE it explains how to anodise but the important bit is the preperation
part for you.
Steve
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rusty nuts
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posted on 3/6/07 at 08:13 AM |
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If you need to use primer you will need an etch primer , probably safer than caustic soda?
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bartonp
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posted on 3/6/07 at 08:44 AM |
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Something to try on some scrap to decide if you like it first - rotary wire brush at high speed. It lifts & melts the surface, leaving a rough ,
random finish. Might trap dirt though.
Phil.
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mangogrooveworkshop
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posted on 3/6/07 at 09:16 AM |
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Have a look a macspeedy car in the for sale bit.
thats scotchpads .....dont use a wire brush as it leave steel on the surface that rusts or get a scotch 3m buffer fine (hairy one not paper flaps)
and stick it in the die grinder that makes a nice finnish
http://picasaweb.google.com/patrickjquinlan/MeetingAtMangos/photo#5067874272915134050
[Edited on 3-6-07 by mangogrooveworkshop]
[Edited on 3-6-07 by mangogrooveworkshop]
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mangogrooveworkshop
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posted on 3/6/07 at 09:25 AM |
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:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Rescued attachment DSCF0975.JPG
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thepest
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posted on 3/6/07 at 03:01 PM |
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So in the above image attached, that is just using scotch pad? or has anything been painted over it?
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02GF74
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posted on 4/6/07 at 03:28 PM |
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see my posts ,going back a year by now, about my bonnet prep; if I was oing it all agian, I'd paint it.
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bobster
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posted on 9/6/07 at 09:41 PM |
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I have sprayed bare ali with a clear lacquer. Holts from any car shop. easy to apply and gives a good finnish form a tin.
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