jabbahutt
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 posted on 30/3/07 at 12:22 PM |
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cutting fibreglass with tile saw
I've just bought a tilesaw at dinner time ready to start on my fibreglass body panels this weekend.
I understand that you should cover the area to cut/drill with masking tape but can you use the saw in both directions or only away from the gelcoat
finish side as you supposedly are meant to when using a file
Thanks for any help
Nigel
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Hellfire
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 12:26 PM |
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Both directions should be ok with the tile saw, although if you wanted a really neat edge you could finish off with a dremmel.
Trial cut a piece of fibreglass first with the tile saw and see if it gives you the result you want. 
Phil
Edited to add: Don't forget to wear a mask whilst cutting.
[Edited on 30-3-07 by Hellfire]
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worX
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 12:27 PM |
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I just used a Jigsaw with an Aluminium blade, and masked off areas where I didn't want chipping and left areas that I didn't care about -
but it still didn't chip there either!
hth
Steve
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 12:33 PM |
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about using a dremmel I have one and I'am not sure which attachments to use.
Can anyone elaborate on tools to use with fibreglass. I have the ones that look like brown cutting discs and small rolls of sandpaper etc but
wouldn't want to go near it without knowing which ones are suitable.
Thanks for the help and hopefully everything should go okay this weekend.
I'd love to test on a piece of fibreglass before starting but unfortunately only have the panels to practice on!!
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worX
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 12:37 PM |
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Well your panels should give you a bit spare somewhere???
Either way, for finishing of the panel (after cutting with jigsaw/file/tile saw etc) would prob be best achieved using the small sanding drum
attachment.
hth
Steve
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twybrow
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 12:52 PM |
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If you use a reciprocating saw (jigsaw, Cengar etc) then make sure you clamp the panel down well to avoid it flapping. Hacksaw blades work well on
fibreglass. tile cutters don't give a crisp egde, so it will need to be cleaned up afterwards. The best tool is a 'cut-off tool'. A
small diamond tipped blade angle grinder type thing (usually air-powered). they are great for cutting long cuts, but not so good for fine details.
That is where the Dremmel comes in very handy....
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 01:10 PM |
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watch as cutting tools can get red hot cutting fiberglass because of the friction, best to take it slowly.
I use normaly a cutting disk on the grider and a flapper wheel for finishing but it does produce a lot of dust.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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rjbrookes
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 02:40 PM |
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With a dremmel i used a large (2cm) sanding drum. The larger the better as it will give you a smoother radius.
Obviously rough it out with a drill/hole saw first. Some cuts/holes i just used the hole saw its self, mask it off first.
Russ
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Hellfire
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 06:31 PM |
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These are awesome...
Dremel Tilesaw (562)
Very smooth, no vibration and last ages. Perfect for rear arche light holes and alsorts in fibreglass.
Steve
[Edited on 30-3-07 by Hellfire]
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stevebubs
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 11:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jabbahutt
about using a dremmel I have one and I'am not sure which attachments to use.
For cutting edges etc, I can't recommend a diamond cutting wheel high enough...
 
Rescued attachment normal_ZetecClutch_016.jpg
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stevebubs
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| posted on 30/3/07 at 11:42 PM |
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Above hole was made by using a hole cutter for the corners and the rest was a diamond wheel....this is after the raw cut - no sanding or filing work
has taken place
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