David Jenkins
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| posted on 31/7/05 at 10:40 AM |
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Rivet length?
I've been trying to find out the correct length of blind rivet for a given thickness of metal - can't find anything anywhere! 
Anyone here got a guide, or a link to a data sheet?
I want to put 3.2mm rivets into a joint made from 2 thicknesses of 1.6mm. I don't want too much excess material as I intend to knock out the
mandrel and flatten the blind side with a hammer (yes - I know - not exactly blind rivetting!).
I suppose I could always buy a bag of real rivets, if I'm going to bash the other side anyway...
David
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antonyg
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| posted on 31/7/05 at 11:22 AM |
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this might help although measurements are in inches not mm
http://www.chicagorivet.com/riv-sel.htm
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the JoKeR
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| posted on 31/7/05 at 01:14 PM |
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This site also has a number of size charts, to go along with the different rivet styles.
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/index.html
__________________________
Jeff
http://www.midwestwelding.com
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 31/7/05 at 03:53 PM |
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Hmm... couldn't find anything on those sites for blind (pop) rivets. But may just be me being short-sighted. 
David
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scutter
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| posted on 31/7/05 at 05:05 PM |
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David try this LINK Page, Table two.
Hopefully helpful.
Dan.
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907
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| posted on 31/7/05 at 05:06 PM |
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Hi David,
Gonna make a wild guess that this is something to do with a boot.
Just had a little play with Screwfix's finest 3 x 8mm ali rivets into 1.5 to 1.5 ali.
Bashed every other one so you could see how much I squashed them.
The ridge that's left is .7mm
This any help?
ATB Paul G
 
Rescued attachment rivets-s.jpg
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 31/7/05 at 06:21 PM |
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Paul, Good guess!
That's exactly what I want to do - the inside of the boot will be covered in thin car carpet, so the rivet heads won't matter much.
Although the back won't be visible I think blind rivets look fairly crappy on that side, so I was going to neaten them as in your photo.
Thanks for that (and the phone call)
David
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Mix
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| posted on 1/8/05 at 06:34 AM |
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I think you would find it just as easy to use countersunk solid rivets and the finish would be far superior / flatter.
If it's just a few rivets you need I can probably help you out.
Mick
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/8/05 at 07:13 AM |
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Wouldn't 1.5/1.6mm sheet be too thin for countersink rivet heads?
I had considered flat-head solid rivets as an alternative.
David
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Mix
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| posted on 1/8/05 at 08:35 AM |
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You could use 1/8" or 3/32" countersunk solids quite easily in that thickness of material, we do it all the time in aircraft
structures.
Mick
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/8/05 at 11:29 AM |
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So if I used 100-degree countersink rivets, what length should I use for a total thickness of 3.0 - 3.2mm?
David
BTW... Mick, I'll be looking for at least 100 - hardly 'just a few'!
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Mix
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| posted on 1/8/05 at 12:44 PM |
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I think you would struggle with 100 degree rivets, 120 degree would be more suitable.
As you seem to be joining quite a long length have you considered structural adhesive reinforced with fewer rivets ? There will be less chance of
deforming the joint that way.
Mick
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/8/05 at 12:54 PM |
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Mick,
I'm using folded sheet to make the box sides, with a bottom made from sheet with flanges bent up. The longest side is about 33", with the
others around 6" - 10".
Structural adhesive sounds tempting, and I was going to use some sikaflex anyway (as sealant) so that plus fewer rivets may well be the best way to
go.
Can you suggest any places where I can buy a 100 bag of 1/8", 120-degree ali rivets at a good price?
cheers,
David
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wicket
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| posted on 1/8/05 at 01:16 PM |
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David
You can download the POP information from here
http://www.emhart.com/products/pop.html
It has all the dimensional details
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