Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Durable wing stay design.
zilspeed

posted on 3/6/04 at 08:23 AM Reply With Quote
Durable wing stay design.

Looking for suggestions for a durable wing stay design. My current ones start of as round tube which butt welds onto flat bar which is then bent over the wheel to form the shape under the cycle wing. There is a clear weak point at the point where the flat bar and round tube butt weld together - end on end.
Any suggestions ?
One has failed and I am going to repair it by replacing the flat bar with a longer piece which I will run down the side of the round tube and give a much longer contact area between the two.
Really I'm looking for suggestions for a design which has no obvious failure points built in as my current ones, frankly, do.

[Edited on 3/6/04 by zilspeed]






View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
AvonBelgium

posted on 3/6/04 at 08:28 AM Reply With Quote
If you use a tube that you squeze to make it flat neare the tyre.
I think this will be stronger

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Mix

posted on 3/6/04 at 08:40 AM Reply With Quote
I would flatten the ends of the round tubes and insert the flat bars inside them, then weld the two together. There will still be a weak point at the change of section but the flat bar will better supported and I think will look better than running the bar outside the tubes.
Just my opinion though.

Mick

[Edited on 3/6/04 by Mix]

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
mangogroove

posted on 3/6/04 at 09:34 AM Reply With Quote
Perhaps a web welded on the inside would help 8mm bar.
These cycle wings have and will always give trouble to the masses. The other thing is to get some fake carbon ones made of plastic from that lighting supplier.
Fibreglass ones are heavy unsprung weight. Reduce this and the brackets will not have to work as hard.......

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Hugh Paterson

posted on 3/6/04 at 10:51 AM Reply With Quote
Im with Mangogrove, flat bar but welded with webs spreading the load at the joint between the flat bar/tube. What u using to weld Mig?
Shug.

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
zilspeed

posted on 3/6/04 at 11:01 AM Reply With Quote
Mig is all I can do shug.
As someone said to me years ago, "I'm an armature ".
I believe he was an electrician.
I sincerely hope the weather improves or I'll be doing nothing today.






View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Hellfire

posted on 3/6/04 at 11:41 AM Reply With Quote
I believe the MK ones are done in the way of...
quote:
Originally posted by Mix
I would flatten the ends of the round tubes and insert the flat bars inside them, then weld the two together. There will still be a weak point at the change of section but the flat bar will better supported and I think will look better than running the bar outside the tubes.

and I am not aware of anyone having problems with them.

Incidentally, the arches themselves... MK now do a cracking bit of GRP (with moulded 'lug type things) that makes them look totally made for the job!

If anyone has a picture?



[Edited on 3-6-04 by Hellfire]






View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
craig1410

posted on 3/6/04 at 11:49 AM Reply With Quote
Hi,
I'll be doing my wing stays soon and perhaps I'm being naive but if the edges of the bar and flat are bevelled to permit full weld penetration (multi pass if required) then shouldn't it be strong enough no matter whether it is a simple butt weld? If not then I'd suggest cutting a slot in the round bar to allow the flat bar to be inserted for 25mm or so before fully welding.

Cheers,
Craig.

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
zilspeed

posted on 3/6/04 at 12:13 PM Reply With Quote
Flat bar up the middle of the tube it is then lads.
Sometimes all it takes is a couple of ideas to help see a better solution






View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Markp

posted on 3/6/04 at 05:04 PM Reply With Quote
I had the same problem

in the end I welded them back together, added a small bit of metal around the area where it snapped and added a metal strip joining the two which makes it more rigid

mark Rescued attachment cycle.JPG
Rescued attachment cycle.JPG

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
stressy

posted on 3/6/04 at 08:28 PM Reply With Quote
and now for something completely different.......

I used tube for the whole shebang as follows:

cut a steel plate which has holes to match those on the upright intended to locate the disc covers.

bolt in position using either a spacer if fixed or if you have a mishmash of wheels then go for double nuts.

use a pipe bender to form 90 degree bends in two peices of pipe. one for the front stay, one for the rear.

assemble on sheet with clamps and weld to plate as desired.

trim plate back and tidy up.

when fitting arches bed them down on either a mastic or light filler.

Having had an immediate failure with the original design this has given me 1000,s of miles of happy use. i even managed to damage an arch keeping the stay intact...

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
britishtrident

posted on 3/6/04 at 08:58 PM Reply With Quote
Squeeze the tube -- while red hot then reheat and quench to refine the grain structure
Also don't weld the joint braze it

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.