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Author: Subject: A New Project, GT6 aluminium body
mark chandler

posted on 11/12/14 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
I,m only seeing a little 4 pot under the bonnet, I thought gt6's were all 2.0 straight 6's unless the 2.5 had been transplanted.

Are you planning anything under the hood John?

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John Bonnett

posted on 12/12/14 at 08:16 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I,m only seeing a little 4 pot under the bonnet, I thought gt6's were all 2.0 straight 6's unless the 2.5 had been transplanted.

Are you planning anything under the hood John?



Quite right Mark, but the sheer weight of a Triumph six would negate everything I'm trying to achieve in building a lightweight nimble car that is fun to drive on the road. The GT6 is a great tourer and we took ours to Scotland, France and Spain and it was superb. But this car is different and my target is to achieve the handling and sharpness of a Caterham 7 and no amount of moving a six cylinder engine back in the frame would come anywhere near that.

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adithorp

posted on 12/12/14 at 08:49 AM Reply With Quote
The GT6 grew out of the 4pot Sptfire LeMans coupe anyway.

More great work, skill and progress John.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

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John Bonnett

posted on 27/12/14 at 06:42 PM Reply With Quote
Work stopped for a short break a couple of days before Christmas but I managed to get the bonnet supporting frame tacked together and the over centre catches together with their mating parts trial fitted. I was really pleased to discover that the reinforcing bonnet corners which accommodate the rubber locating cones are available as a Heritage repair panel. This was a huge benefit and saved a colossal amount of time. A few pictures follow.





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ceebmoj

posted on 27/12/14 at 08:14 PM Reply With Quote
Great progress. Have you seen the hinge on project binky, it could make removing the front end for work very easy?
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John Bonnett

posted on 27/12/14 at 09:20 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Great progress. Have you seen the hinge on project binky, it could make removing the front end for work very easy?


I've just watched the latest episode and that solution is so neat and above all, simple. Sadly, I didn't think of it and I'm too far down the line to change now. But all I have to do is remove a couple of R clips and pull out the hinge pins to remove the bonnet. Not so easy as Binky but do-able.

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John Bonnett

posted on 30/12/14 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
I've decided to leave the bonnet supporting frame just tacked for the moment. Trev D's colleague Martin is coming down soon to do some work on the bonnet skin and if he recommends that I change the frame it will be easier if it's not fully welded.

So I'm now starting on the cooling system which uses a Golf radiator and a MK4 Astra header tank. The VW radiator is efficient, light and above all amazingly cheap. I bought a shroud complete with fan to suit off Ebay. The radiator is located on the base by two spigots which are accommodated by a pair of simple brackets fitted with rubber grommets to provide the necessary cushioning. Next was to cut out a cardboard template for the ducting which will be transposed onto aluminium. The ducting will be screwed to the radiator and will hold it rigidly in place. It will be fun folding the aluminium with many opportunities for mistakes.



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rdodger

posted on 9/1/15 at 10:52 PM Reply With Quote
Is it finished yet?






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adithorp

posted on 9/1/15 at 11:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Is it finished yet?


...and when it is, can you lend that cardboard pattern to Roger so he can adapt it to finally getting around to making a boot box for his car.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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John Bonnett

posted on 10/1/15 at 04:43 AM Reply With Quote
Yes, the ducting is finished now after aborting the MK1 on the grounds of it being too heavy. Pic 1 The MK2 is a lot better and uses a frame of 25 x 25 x 1.5 extruded aluminium angle with the panelling in 1mm. I had to add stiffness by putting in a few swages but I think it will be okay. I have also made the crossbar that fits across the middle of the air intake aperture frame. This started out as a piece of 1.2mm stainless sheet 32mm wide folded into a Vee. In the centre is a stainless backing plate to accommodate the Triumph badge.






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rdodger

posted on 10/1/15 at 10:40 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Is it finished yet?


...and when it is, can you lend that cardboard pattern to Roger so he can adapt it to finally getting around to making a boot box for his car.


Good point Adi. I could also do with a diffuser and some sort splitter at the front. Then onto fitting the supercharger.

Motivation seems lacking at the moment. I haven't even washed it after Brands Hatch!






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rdodger

posted on 10/1/15 at 10:41 AM Reply With Quote
Nice work John.

Can we look forward to the fitting of the bonnet soon?






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John Bonnett

posted on 10/1/15 at 06:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Nice work John.

Can we look forward to the fitting of the bonnet soon?



Indeed we can. Martin, who made the bonnet skin has spent the day with me and has made terrific progress. The skin has been clecoed to the frame so that it will always go back in the same place, one headlamp aperture cut out and one headlamp bowl made and tacked together. It was very pleasing to see it, fixed to the frame hinged open. There will be a gap now while Martin takes the assembly away to finish in his workshop when time permits.





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rdodger

posted on 10/1/15 at 07:35 PM Reply With Quote
Looks fabulous John!






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adithorp

posted on 10/1/15 at 10:26 PM Reply With Quote
That looks stunning.

Rog, Spain, June. Hows that for motivation?





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

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TheGecko

posted on 11/1/15 at 02:12 AM Reply With Quote
Looking terrific John - congratulations on your progress and looking forward to seeing the finished result.

Dominic

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John Bonnett

posted on 11/1/15 at 07:23 AM Reply With Quote
Thank you all for your very kind words and encouragement. I'm so lucky to have Martin's help without which I would have been totally out of my depth. It was quite amazing to witness his accuracy, and speed of work; a real privilege to be in the company of a master craftsman. All a bit of an anti-climax now that he has finished and I'm back on my own. But everything should be pretty straightforward from here on in. Next weekend I'll have the body off the chassis and during the following week strip it down and get it over to the painters to be shot blasted and powder coated. In the meantime I can be making up the wiring loom so plenty to get on with.

I'll keep you posted and thank you all for your interest and encouragement which i find absolutely fantastic. Thank you.

John

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John Bonnett

posted on 2/2/15 at 07:26 PM Reply With Quote
Since the last offering the body has been removed from the chassis, the chassis stripped of all the running gear and taken for shot blasting and powder coating.

Work on the wiring is under way with the rear loom finished. To clip it to the car I've sourced some nice little tie wrap saddles that can be screwed or riveted. The tie wraps allow the loom to be demounted if required.



I've painted the bulkhead and it is now ready for the master cylinders and all the other bits and pieces that sit on the scuttle shelf.



I'm trying to keep the car simple and the dashboard that I've just made does, I believe, fit into that concept. There will be a couple of other gauges mounted on a sub-panel behind the steering wheel but nothing over the top.


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John Bonnett

posted on 8/2/15 at 01:48 PM Reply With Quote
Before the loom can be finished the hardware has to be sited so that the various wires can be trimmed to the right lengths. So, the wiper motor is in position, the dash instruments and the heater. I'm using a T7 modular heater similar to the one in the trials car which works very well. The heater is available with a wide choice of blanking plates and outlet stub pipe diameter. The bulhead adapter, also from T7 is nicely made and with the pipe spacing matching the heater inlet and outlet pipes it allows a neat installation.





[Edited on 8/2/15 by John Bonnett]

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John Bonnett

posted on 27/2/15 at 07:24 AM Reply With Quote
The chassis went together really quickly and is now fully built and awaiting the engine. The secret to the quick reassembly was that sections were removed after the dummy build as assemblies rather than individual components. And the brake and fuel pipes were already formed.

I've been told that the diff mounting plate should be fixed with Wedgelok bolts which are a special type that is self-locking. Standard bolts have a tendency to work loose, come out and jam the propshaft; not nice! I've been unable to source them so I've fitted new star washers and wired the heads. I'm hoping that will do the trick.


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ken555

posted on 27/2/15 at 04:10 PM Reply With Quote







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John Bonnett

posted on 27/2/15 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ken555






Ah, thank you Ken for taking the time to draw it out for me. I really appreciate that and will redo it accordingly.

regards

John

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40inches

posted on 27/2/15 at 04:40 PM Reply With Quote
Are these what you are looking for John? NORD-LOCK WEDGE LOCK WASHER NL10 METRIC WASHER FOR M10 BOLTS DELTA PROTEKT x 5


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John Bonnett

posted on 27/2/15 at 06:34 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Are these what you are looking for John? NORD-LOCK WEDGE LOCK WASHER NL10 METRIC WASHER FOR M10 BOLTS DELTA PROTEKT x 5








The very thing. That's absolutely fantastic. Thank you so much. What a forum this is!!!

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John Bonnett

posted on 7/3/15 at 10:33 PM Reply With Quote
The new bonnet catches arrived today and I've been able to trial fit them to the aluminium recesses that I made a week or so ago. These will be trimmed and welded into the bonnet while being located by bolting through into the steel backing plate.

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