bellhousing level with chassis - spirit level on engine -

I'll cut off the flange - shorten the pipes - angle them downwards - stop passengers getting burnt -

what do you think?

should i make my own from mild steel and send this back? Or do a big mod on it?

cheers .. photos in archive.....
Rescued attachment 1.jpg

It's going back .... all that excess pipe under the bonnet is going to glow like a furnace and set fire to my paintwork!!!! I cant get the angle downwards either ...

Looks like a trip to nottingham monday and a big restock surcharge no doubt...

I have 2 crossflow manifolds to work with.. I'll weld and cut it to fit perfect.. than use stainless flexi - pipe to come out the side and put a class stainless exhaust along the side at the correct hight.....

Sorry, can't see what you mean, just a damn large picture!

cheers,

Ned.

i spent five mins trying to scroll to the exhaust! Whats up with it?

Poor fit or poor design?

The engine looks a long way forward in the picture. Is that the final position?.

yours, Pete.

[Edited on 24/10/03 by Peteff]

I would say in my humble opinion.. the engine looks a tad high, could be just pic but it looks like the bottom of the sump is almost level with bottom rail?

apart from that the exhaust looks fine to me?

Think I would agree with Hornet - the engine looks to be high in the chassis, with it lower the exhaust would also be lower and not so easy to get burnt by it.

I'm using this setup and I too thought the level of the exhaust on the exterior to be quite high initially. Now that the car is starting to come together though with the scuttle on and rear wings it looks more in proportion.

Check out the orientation here....

Cheers

JC (seabass),

Could you take a picture of your car in side profile for comparison.

I was going to get the blowtorch out and bend the pipes, but don't want to waste my time.


My exhaust sit a little high in this picture, but has been lowered by about an inch since.

Cheers Dan.

test fitting

[Edited on 31/10/03 by scutter]

Specific picture is here...

Or other pictures from similar period here...

Cheers

Cheers Seabass,

Looks about the same as mine now, think I'll just plod on and leave the side panel until last.

Take care Dan.

Hi johnemms, i give up where,s TR1.

cheers davef.

The exhaust looks very close to the rear rear tyre, have you enough room for the rear arch

Check the later pages on my site...

Does the exhaust look like it's finally fitted on that picture? No!

Cheers

Thanks Syd,

I am aware of the problem with the brake pedal... How's your build progressing?

Cheers

Hi guys,
bit the bullet,

cut the flange off the exhaust....

Ground and filled the holes in the flange so the exhaust pipes inserted into the flange as opposed to original fit butted up against it...,

I then angled the pipes down as low as possiblewith with the flange bolted to the head.
Will have the flange and pipes re-welded in stainless for about £20...

Result: one inch closer to body work and one inch lower now.

sorry about the crapy large pictures earlier, i will put neat ones on in future!

Will post a pic when I put the engine back in.......

cheers all

I've been reliably informed that the Robin Hood exhaust doesn't pass SVA because it too noisy.

If that helps anyone.

Darren

Doz,

That worries me a little , I had planned to use the robin hood exhaust. If this is a problem do you know of alternatives for the pintio engine?

Thanks

Simon

Only found that info out myself yesterday. On the look out for alternatives myself. Probably end up having a few made for the Locost GTS kits to my specification.

Kind regards,
Darren

Not a problem, pack with wire wool and a keeper, easily removed post test.

Cheers

SeaBass,

Will standard wirewool withstand the heat, dont really want sparks at SVA time (they muight ask questions ).

I read (maybe here) that the Robin Hood exhaust does not have a repack hatch, any ideas????

Surely Robin Hods go though SVA with this pipe on?

Pioneer,

Robin Hoods all go through the SVA with this pipe. However, they are supplied with a three pronged insert that you fit inside the pipe (its a baffle). Also, it appears that they don't have alot of wadding in them so (sometimes) owners cut repack hatches in them and repack 'em. A slightly larger piece of s/s sheet is riveted over the hole and sealed. It looks a bit shite but that's no problem as the thing is supplied with a heatshield that covers the whole lot.

That is what I'm going to do with mine if it fails SVA. Funny thing is, one went through a month or so ago with no mods at all (it was a DOHC Injection model), so I may be OK.

On the other hand, I went for a spin it it and my ears are still bleeding...