LocostBuilders - powered by XMB

Goodyear Eagle F1 255/35/ZXR18 mudflaps

Humbug - 12/8/06 at 11:31 AM

I recently changed my cycle wings and had the brackest repaired and strengthened. I fitted the new wings and decided on some new mudflaps instead of the old ones (cut from truck mudflap).

I went to the local tyre place and begged a scrap tyre with an interested tread. Cut the bead with an angle grinder, cut the side walls off with a jigsaw, and cut the flaps to shape from the tread bit. I think it looks quite good, though the flap needs to settle down a bit.

I did think of putting some on the front of the rear wings as stone protectors, but that might be a bit overkill?
Rescued attachment 2006-08-12 1 ST new mudflap.JPG

graememk - 12/8/06 at 11:33 AM

now that is locost............tight arse

Humbug - 12/8/06 at 11:34 AM

quote:
Originally posted by graememk
now that is locost............tight arse

No fair... I spent Ł1.20 on new nuts and bolts ;D

scutter - 12/8/06 at 11:39 AM

I like. So good an idea i may have to just copy.

Simon, I'll get down the garage tuesday and measure the seats for you( it's the next time i'm allowed down there).

ATB Dan.

Humbug - 12/8/06 at 12:07 PM

quote:
Originally posted by scutter
I like. So good an idea i may have to just copy.

Simon, I'll get down the garage tuesday and measure the seats for you( it's the next time i'm allowed down there).

ATB Dan.

Well, Dan, it was kind of your idea - you mentioned the tyre cycle wings on the Vanwall. I've still got a fair bit of tyre left, so I could bring a piece to the next Newlands meeting if you want it? Let me know

...btw, remember I said one of my cycle wings was wobbling more than the other? I found out why yesterday - the rear tube on the right hand bracket was cracked half through just where it joins the plate. I rboke it right off, then used Araldite Steel adhesive and a cut-off bolt that just fitted into the tubes. Hopefully it will stay put :~)

Peteff - 12/8/06 at 12:07 PM

It's like the tyre patterned carbon front cycle wings on the Vanwall lookalike kits to maintain the appearance of open wheels. I made some trailer mudguards in a similar fashion. They'd make good looking stone protectors if you get wide enough tyres.

the_fbi - 12/8/06 at 12:23 PM

Aren't the shocks adjustment controls supposed to be on the inside of the shock?

Humbug - 12/8/06 at 01:02 PM

quote:
Originally posted by the_fbi
Aren't the shocks adjustment controls supposed to be on the inside of the shock?

Dunno - they were like that when I bought the rolling chassis. They seem to adjust OK and the suspension works

BKLOCO - 13/8/06 at 05:49 AM

quote:
Originally posted by the_fbi
Aren't the shocks adjustment controls supposed to be on the inside of the shock?

Why???

David Jenkins - 13/8/06 at 10:12 AM

quote:
Originally posted by the_fbi
Aren't the shocks adjustment controls supposed to be on the inside of the shock?

Mine are in the same place - works for me, and no-one's complained. The only advantage in having them facing the bodywork is that you wouldn't have to put a rubber nut cover over the adjuster to keep Mr SVA happy. They're easier to adjust where they are (not that there's much in it).

David

the_fbi - 13/8/06 at 10:17 AM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins

quote:
Originally posted by the_fbi
Aren't the shocks adjustment controls supposed to be on the inside of the shock?

Mine are in the same place - works for me, and no-one's complained. The only advantage in having them facing the bodywork is that you wouldn't have to put a rubber nut cover over the adjuster to keep Mr SVA happy. They're easier to adjust where they are (not that there's much in it).

David

All the various types I've owned have always stated that the adjusters should be on the inside in their install instructions.

AVO, Spax, Protech, Koni.

I'm no shock expert so I ain't going to argue with a manufacturer.

procomp - 14/8/06 at 07:04 AM

Hi it also means that any water will run of and away rather that get in to the adjuster and eventualy sieze it .

cheers matt