I am looking for some photoes/advice as to where does the side panels stop and where does the rear panel start. How does the part enclosing the stocks top mount get covered?

What I have at the moment.
Rescued attachment side 1.JPG

Like your new wheels Kango!

Have you gone to have a look a Aubrey's latest progress?

Cheers

Fred W B

Completely off topic but...is that nice looking dog in the background a Weimaraner?

I joined mine in the centre of the top plate where the roll bar will fit (virtually straight up from the shocker mount).

Are you using fibreglass or ally body? Ive seen a fibre glass body joined and then the small gap filled with gel coat - you could hardly see the joint, i was convinced it was a one piece rear tub (Westfield stylee).

1) Yes it is a Weimaraner and I have 2 of them.

2) I am using ali.
How do I get the bolt holding the shock out or in once the area is covered with ali? I have braced the top mounting plate on the other side to the inner tube running down to the fuel tank support (as shown in the BOOK)

Any photoes of the side with out the fender fitted.

I have looked in just about every Photo archive for such a pic.

This any good?
Rescued attachment Inner Arch.jpg

And filler etched
Rescued attachment Inner Arch2.jpg

Check out my pic.

My fender only needs to go up about 30mm. Then there is still another 50 mm to the top frame. Bottom line, the fender is not going to cover the bolt in/out area. It sits smack in the middle of the area above the fender.

Please a photo of the rear wheel arch before the fender is fitted.....somebody must have such a photo..


Thanks

HI Kango

I think you are going to have to panel the whole area behind the wheel, then hole saw a hole for access to the bolt, and cover it with a grommet.

Then mount the fender to the panel

Cheers

Fred WB

I thought of that, but dont see any other cars with a grommet there....so how did they do it or is every body just fitting their fenders to cover the bolt.

What about turning the shock 90 deg???

My bolt is fitted 90 degrees to yours, i can get access from the boot area. This is a good idea but will mean you having to turn your bracket round.

Will you need to remove bolt later?? Hopefully not but i see your dilemma. What about finishing the side and rear panels short then rivetting a second piece in the centre. Worst case is you will need to drill out the rivets to remove panel in the event you need bolt access (you could also use self tappers for these additional panel). Im saying this without knowing if you can fix the panels in this way.
Grommet doesnt sound like a bad idea. Yes - no-one else seems to do this but there are no hard and fast rules. Maybe know one else has given it the same thought as you.
I cant think of any other solutions that will look OK.

HTH,
Darren.

I sorted the problem out by removing "W1 & 2" and making them bolt onto "O" and "V". Now I can put the top shock bolt in from the inside and have the nut on the side next to the rear panel skin.

Any comments?

quote:

---

Originally posted by kango
I sorted the problem out by removing "W1 & 2" and making them bolt onto "O" and "V". Now I can put the top shock bolt in from the inside and have the nut on the side next to the rear panel skin.

Any comments?

---

W1 and W2 are the 2 triangulating members from the inside top shock mount to the bottom member of the back panel. Look in the book page 64.

Thats why i didnt know - i dont have the book. Im building with a bought chassis.

Looks like a good solution tho to me.