Hi all,

I am about to make my aero screens for my midi. I have an old motorbike screen. My plan is simple - apply resin to the inside, add cloth, allow to cure, remove, repeat! This will give me the 2 bubble screens I need! You can see the screen I am using here:
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Will the fibreglass resin (cheapy stuff from local auto factors) damage/attack the screen and prevent me making the second screen? If so, my plan is to tape the inside of the screen with packing tape before the first moulding. Any thoughts or suggestions will be welcomed!!!

Thanks. Jc

I think it will stick to the screen too well to get off. You need some sort of antistick

You need to use release wax (stuff in the red and blue tin most common) on the inside of the bike screen first which you apply with a sponge allow to 'haze dry' lightly polish then add another layer and repeat, you then need to use a thin coat of the blue pva release agent over the wax and allow that to dry. You are then ready to start with the resign. Don't use tape as a barrier it will just become one awful rough mess very quickly!

I agree with talon - lots of wax, lots of polishing, and then a release agent. Blue PVA is a good one, and it's best sprayed if you want to get a shiny surface. If you paint it on, the brush-strokes will appear in your part. An alternative I sometimes use is a chemical release agent. wipe on with a lint-free cloth, buff and let it set. Repeat. Each chemical release agent has its own regime.

Also, I would look to put a gel-coat on first before you lay the cloth into the back. You can polish gel-coat and you can't polish raw glass. It doesn't look especially aesthetically pleasing.

M

If you are wanting an exact replica, why don't you buy another screen and spray them the colour you want?

40inches - now that makes way more sense, and way less faff.

Thanks for the suggestions - the screen came from an auto jumble and I am not sure what it came off!! Also, I want a return on it to attach it to the scuttle!

what you need to do is take a mould from the screen, then make two replicas of it. If the screen is flexible, exercise caution becuase the shape on your bench when you make the mould may well be slightly different to how it is when bolted down.

Thanks

I appreciate the 'proper' way of doing it would be to make a mould! However, as the finished panel will be painted, if the surface isn't perfect, I'm not too worried. I was really looking for a Locost way of doing it - time and hard work are free

Has anyone tried the parcel tape approach - from other sources I see a number of people saying it works, but not many who say they have done it!

If using tape, the result will vary depending on the quality of the tape - if it allows resin to seep through then it won't work...

I've always waxed and had no issues.....

[Edited on 26/9/14 by stevebubs]

I've not seen anyone get by with packing tape - I'm not sure what release agent is left on that, and all it takes is a mistake that means you don't have an edge properly stuck down and you have a lump.

I honestly think you'll spend more time and effort fettling a part than making a mould and cracking out two quite clean parts. In my limited experience, I spend all the time on the mould - any imperfection you have there is transferred to the part.

If you're looking at halfords prices for what you need, then this stuff is way off the mark price-wise for this job, and the resins are also not designed for part/mould making. Repair resins are much thicker and the catalyst far more aggressive. You wouldn't have enough time to lay it out and get the bubbles out. check out east coast fibreglass supplies; they're experts in this and the price for 5 msq of 450CSM, some gel-coat, resin and PVA will surprise you. They may even do kits for you to get started.

remember to the heat generated during curing can melt the glue on tape and distort the plastic screen. I've been through all this and it's very annoying

Mr Whippy makes a point. I often observe cure temps of 70C and above.

quote:

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Originally posted by FuryRebuild
I've not seen anyone get by with packing tape - I'm not sure what release agent is left on that, and all it takes is a mistake that means you don't have an edge properly stuck down and you have a lump.

I honestly think you'll spend more time and effort fettling a part than making a mould and cracking out two quite clean parts. In my limited experience, I spend all the time on the mould - any imperfection you have there is transferred to the part.

If you're looking at halfords prices for what you need, then this stuff is way off the mark price-wise for this job, and the resins are also not designed for part/mould making. Repair resins are much thicker and the catalyst far more aggressive. You wouldn't have enough time to lay it out and get the bubbles out. check out east coast fibreglass supplies; they're experts in this and the price for 5 msq of 450CSM, some gel-coat, resin and PVA will surprise you. They may even do kits for you to get started.

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OK, so I read all the advice and then gave it a go - with tape that is! Working on the basis that I can always make a mould from the other side! It worked really well and the product looks good - it will need a gentle rub down and some fill-primer but overall I am pleased!



screen

The original screen.


Taped up

Taped Up ready to mould


in mould

Layering up the cloth


untrimmed

As it came out of the mould ready to trim!

Final product picture to follow!

Congratulations. Your journey to the dark side has begun.

well done, looks a decent finish