Evening all,

I need to replace my nosecone, but due to the fact that it's wider than a standard one I want to make my own, and in the process learn a new skill!

I've had a search, but can't really find an answer, so my question is this:

How much glass fibre will I need to make a mould and the final thing? There are kits from east coast fibreglass supplies in a 5m sq package, this includes 5m sq of surface tissue and 5m sq of 450g chopped matting. Will this be enough?

Also, any advice on how many layers I should do for the mould and also in the final part?

All advice is welcome,

Thanks,

Chris

Buy a mould!
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/34/viewthread.php?tid=172320
You'll need a shed load of matting and resin to make a mould and you'll use it once. Its an expensive way to get a nose cone but I see what you're saying about wanting to make your own. I would say that you'll need a lot more than 5msq of matting just for the mould....

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Originally posted by owelly
Buy a mould!
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/34/viewthread.php?tid=172320
You'll need a shed load of matting and resin to make a mould and you'll use it once. Its an expensive way to get a nose cone but I see what you're saying about wanting to make your own. I would say that you'll need a lot more than 5msq of matting just for the mould....

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Why do you need a new nose? it has to be in good condition to take a mould from it...

Cant it just be repaired

Buy a nosecone, split it down the middle and glass it back together at the desired width. Simples
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172219

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Originally posted by Ben_Copeland
Why do you need a new nose? it has to be in good condition to take a mould from it...

Cant it just be repaired

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Originally posted by 40inches
Buy a nosecone, split it down the middle and glass it back together at the desired width. Simples
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172219

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Originally posted by ChrisLeary

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Originally posted by 40inches
Buy a nosecone, split it down the middle and glass it back together at the desired width. Simples
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172219

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It's not really the width thats the problem, its how it fits the chassis.

Chris

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Originally posted by 40inches

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Originally posted by ChrisLeary

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Originally posted by 40inches
Buy a nosecone, split it down the middle and glass it back together at the desired width. Simples
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=172219

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It's not really the width thats the problem, its how it fits the chassis.

Chris

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Mmmm! intrigued now, need photos

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It's a lot of work because you will have to make the buck first, then the mould and then the final piece

It's very rewarding when it goes well but can also be very frustrating at times, it will prob have to be a 2 piece mould or poss 3,

You will need gelcoat with 2 different coloured pigments, a dark colour for the mould and then your chosen colour for the finished piece
Chopped strand mat, I would go for 300gsm as its easier to work into the corners but you need more length of it as its not as thick as 450
Lay up resin
Catalyst for the gelcoat and lay up
Acetone
Paddle roller
Throw away brushes
Mould release wax
Paper cups
Mixing sticks
Latex gloves

And prob some more bits

Iv been doing fg and cf recently, really cool.
you dont need pigments if your painting.
5m sq of each will be more than enough, you only need 2 layers totalling at least 600 for the mould and 2 + gel coat for the finished item.
you'll also need wood, plenty of cheap body filler and sand paper.
Spend most your time on the buck, finish any imperfections on the negative mould.
practice on something small to start with, just a basic shape.
let me know how you get on

I hope this will help.

I made all the fiberglass on my 7 <<< and if i had my time again would buy what ever was on the shelf that fits the job

My first attempts were the front mudguards, made from scratch, and were one serious pain in the arse, and still not happy !

The rear arches were moulded from a lotus 7 pair, came out slightley better, but the widening was again a PITA
Nose cone was taken off a caterham. and was by far my best attempt, yet still a PITA

If i had my time again, i would buy straight off the shelf, and make the car fit the FiberGlass

Seriously, unless you have infianate time, you will waste money, and time, and still not be happy with the result



Steve

As above... Buy, and take up knitting or something...

It might not turn out, but your few hundred pounds will go towards "self improvement". This is my own experience, which is pretty much what the above was (although, I am glad I tried, personally).

I tried knitting actually, too. Gave up very quickly. Are you really off cars, Steve??

a few hundred!! I could do one in cf for that

If you want to make your own buck then this might help http://www.georgecushing.net/Nosecone2.html

By the time you faff around and get it right, you will have spent a few hundred, yes. Be honest.

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Originally posted by maccmike
a few hundred!! I could do one in cf for that

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£80 + £150 = errr

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Originally posted by maccmike
£80 + £150 = errr

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You need to find a different supplier mate theyre ripping you off

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Originally posted by maccmike
You need to find a different supplier mate theyre ripping you off

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''here comes that Neville guy, we're gonna make some profit today!''

If you guys have finished squabbling......
It's easy to prove the cost of gear: simply post up the supply details.
I use http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/
or: http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/
If you make a nose cone mould out of just two layers of glass, it will be as floppy as a moist tissue which will make the final piece rubbish. It will make pulling the nose cone out difficult without wrecking the mould. Even if you make a wooden cradle or frame to put the mould in, it will still need more than two layers. I made a dash binacle mould with three layers and that was just about OK but it was no bigger than a shoe box.
I would say the mould will need to use at least twice the materials as the final piece. Plus the release products and the other consumables like rollers, brushes, mixing pots, etc.
If you want to make your own moulds just for the hell of it, then go for it. If you think you'll save some time and/or money, buy the mould in the link and add an infil to make it wider. You could widen it with wood if need be!

Not squabbling, just pointing out another piece of misinformation.

My mould for the nose is gelcoat, two layers of 600, a layer of 5mm coremat(well soaked with resin, thinned), then another two layers of 600. All of that in materials is more than £80.

I get my carbon at trade prices, which are considerably less than those quoted on the above sites.

My materials come from Scott Bader(trade for 25 yrs), GRP Supplies (Trade for 28 yrs), SP systems/Gurit(trade for 30yrs, and personal friend of boss), Marineware (since they started yonks ago. I know the principals personally and sail with them).

So, you don't get much better than that.

Saying you can make a nosecone mould and then a nosecone for under £200 is grossly misquoting the situation. If someone is setting out to do this from scratch, then the moulding tools(Rollers and such) will cost near £100. I've had to renew some recently and near fell over at the bill. Same prices for the tools everywhere, not a lot off for trade nowdays.

The pattern cost over £200 in materials alone, including foam, csm & resin, filler, surfacer primer, many different grades of sanding material, and wet and dry, then finally glosscoat. Then there's the release wax(1/4 tin @ £10/tin), it all adds up. Acetone is now over £25/25L, and you'll use 10L or more.

You'd be paying near £100 just to get those materials delivered, I get them delivered gratis.

So please, give me credit for far too many years experience, I've been doing this for far too long to not know the realities.

There aren't any shortcuts to doing the job properly.

Cheers,
Nev.

Just as an added comment....I pay less for top quality prepreg than what the dry materials cost to the public.

[Edited on 18/7/12 by Neville Jones]

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Originally posted by maccmike
a few hundred!! I could do one in cf for that

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The coremat will transmit any heat easily, where other core materials will insulate. It also is lighter than the traditional many layers of csm and quicker to laminate up to thickness, so means moving the moulds around is a bit easier for an old fart like me!

Cheers,
nev.

last time I checked a few hundred was not £200.
Whether Im right or wrong, at least I stick to my convictions, I dont change quotes and prices to suit my argument.

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Originally posted by owelly
If you want to make your own moulds just for the hell of it, then go for it. If you think you'll save some time and/or money, buy the mould in the link and add an infil to make it wider. You could widen it with wood if need be!

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I did read your post and still maintain that having seen the mould in question, which is in several parts, modifying it would be quicker, cheaper and easier than starting from scratch.

Go ahead, and just do it. I've done it as well, twice. Learned a lot along the way. Look in my archive for some pics of buck and final nose (before and after painting). It is a lot of work, and do invest much time in the buck. It will pay off. My mould was made in two pieces. For the mould I used three layers of 300 grams CSM, which is stiff enough for a mould that will only be used a few times. The nose itself is 200 woven cloth on inside and outside, and two layers of 300 gram CSM in between. It now light and strong, and unique!

Don't do it if you think you will save money, do it because you want to do it, and end up with something unique which fits your car. I have an MK Indy, and I could easily have bought the bodywork, but I decided I didn't like the styling, so made all panels myself. Very often I hit my head against the wall for being so stubborn, but now it's finished I'm over the moon.


New nose 5

looks wonderful that

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Originally posted by Mave
Go ahead, and just do it. I've done it as well, twice. Learned a lot along the way. Look in my archive for some pics of buck and final nose (before and after painting). It is a lot of work, and do invest much time in the buck. It will pay off. My mould was made in two pieces. For the mould I used three layers of 300 grams CSM, which is stiff enough for a mould that will only be used a few times. The nose itself is 200 woven cloth on inside and outside, and two layers of 300 gram CSM in between. It now light and strong, and unique!

Don't do it if you think you will save money, do it because you want to do it, and end up with something unique which fits your car. I have an MK Indy, and I could easily have bought the bodywork, but I decided I didn't like the styling, so made all panels myself. Very often I hit my head against the wall for being so stubborn, but now it's finished I'm over the moon.


New nose 5

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No problem, just ask.

Cheers,
Marcel