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Headlamp bracket radius
Avoneer - 18/1/04 at 10:20 PM

Hi,
Currently working on the headlamp mounts. I am using a wood spacer to hide the cable and raise the headlampa bit as Tiger engineering place the nut right above the wishbone arm - crunch if you hit a big bump!
Anyone any suggestions as to get a nice 2.5mm radius on the bottom edge of the metal bar apart from the file idea?
Cheers,
Pat... Rescued attachment 1.jpg
Rescued attachment 1.jpg


Avoneer - 18/1/04 at 10:22 PM

And yes, they will receive a nice coat of undercoat, primer and top coat. Rescued attachment 2.jpg
Rescued attachment 2.jpg


JoelP - 18/1/04 at 10:24 PM

unless you can cover it with some lagging or whatever its called, i think that an angle grinder is easiest and fastest. unless you just use a tube and put the wires inside it...


Avoneer - 18/1/04 at 11:01 PM

Though of that, but room is a bit tight even with the hub removed and the carbs are a mere 2 inches away and have been used!


DaveFJ - 19/1/04 at 09:04 AM

Just bite the bullet and get your hand file out - it only took me about ten minutes each side and you retain much better control than using the angle grinder.


Peteff - 19/1/04 at 11:23 AM

If it's less than 5mm thick the edges only need to be blunted. When the lamp is on and the wishbone is in its running position it may not be contactable anyway. Check it out but just rounding the edges off may be enough. You could put a piece of conduit round the bolt threads to raise the headlamp and not use the wood.

yours, Pete.

[Edited on 19/1/04 by Peteff]


Avoneer - 19/1/04 at 04:28 PM

Hi.
I need the piece of wood as it is designed to hide the cable as this originally came out of the bottom of the bolt.
Think I will have to crack on with the file.
Pat...


Alan_Thomas - 20/1/04 at 07:51 PM

Looking at your picture you may not need to do anything. Your top is covered with wood which you can raduis easily and remember the tester can only fail somthing if he can touch it with the 100mm dia half sphere and only from the front direction. He cannot come in from the back of the wishbone. Looks like your top wishbone stops him touching the metal plate


Avoneer - 20/1/04 at 09:37 PM

Hi,
I was just thinking the same thing. I have rounded off the bottom edge of the metal with a file (not to hard to do but required loads of effort) and the top edge of the wood so all should be well. Tried to "knee" the bracket and hurt myself, but it didn't happen so it should be ok.
Pat...


mad4x4 - 29/7/04 at 05:55 PM

What about extending the wood so that the metal is recessed into the wood, Then just radius the wood.

[Edited on 29/707/04 by mad4x4]


JoelP - 29/7/04 at 09:03 PM

the SVA man never mentioned it so i guess he sorted it!


Mark Allanson - 29/7/04 at 09:40 PM

Whats the radius of a woodworm hole?


Viper - 29/7/04 at 09:49 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
Whats the radius of a woodworm hole?


Length of the worm divided by pye


Mark Allanson - 29/7/04 at 09:56 PM

What sort of gas would you recommend for mig welding wood?


Viper - 29/7/04 at 10:11 PM

Gas would have to be charcoal dioxide, its getting the splinter filler wire out of the torch thats a real bugger


Peteff - 29/7/04 at 10:59 PM

You can only stick weld it, stupid.


Mark Allanson - 30/7/04 at 06:12 AM

Which branches of BOC sell these sticks?


Northy - 1/8/04 at 09:04 PM

Sssssshhhhhhh! Mark, all of them do, but it's an under the counter / cash job!

[Edited on 1/8/04 by Northy]


Viper - 1/8/04 at 09:09 PM

I know Woodford do and so do Wood Green not sure about Burnt Oak though.


Mark Allanson - 1/8/04 at 09:43 PM

Available from 'branches' everywhere


Avoneer - 2/8/04 at 04:29 PM

This is getting silly.
SVA guy didn't even use his ball - just had a look. I did attack the bottom edges with a powerfile and cover in vinyl to make them neat.