james h
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 05:10 PM |
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Best way to rid threads of powdercoat
The threads for the 8 (four each side) holes which attach the hubs to the uprights have (i think) become blocked by the powdercoat.
I have tried some M10 bolts but they are refusing to go in past the first thread, and I dont want to force them, unless its necessary.
 
Rear nearside upright
M10 is the right size bolt, isn't it?
Thanks
James
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iiyama
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 05:22 PM |
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Sure youve got the right size thread? Standard M10 is 1.5mm, although there is metric fine, (1.25mm) and metric course, (1.75).
If your sure its a standard thread then run a tap into the hole to clear the threads.
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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James
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 05:22 PM |
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Mmmm, well I don't know the 'M' number it equates to but the bolts need a 13mm socket! 
I'd use a tap to clear it out.
Cheers,
James
EDIT: Oh, beaten to it!
[Edited on 31/5/08 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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iiyama
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 05:23 PM |
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Socket size will be the same for all!!
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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James
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 05:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by iiyama
Socket size will be the same for all!!
Out of interest, how does thread size relate to socket size? Presumably there's a scale somewhere?
Not important, just one of those things you wonder!
Cheers
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Hellfire
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 05:28 PM |
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Assuming you don't have a tap to hand, take a longish M10 bolt and using a hacksaw, cut a groove down the length of the bolt. Screw the bolt in
and it should clean the threads out.
Phil
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 05:42 PM |
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Or file a flat on the lengthof the bolt. Easy way to check thread size is to measure the diameter of the threaded section , invest in a thread gauge
and use to check the pitch . Zues chart is useful as well
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indykid
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 07:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
Mmmm, well I don't know the 'M' number it equates to but the bolts need a 13mm socket!
I'd use a tap to clear it out.
Cheers,
James
EDIT: Oh, beaten to it!
[Edited on 31/5/08 by James]
as a general rule of thumb, and i mean really general..........
7mm AF = M4
8mm AF = M5
10mm AF = M6
13mm AF = M8
17mm AF = M10
19mm AF = M12
22mm AF = M14?
you then also get all sorts of custom sizes, usually for suspension bolts and such like. the M number determines the outer diameter and the thread
form. anything else such as head size, assuming it's hex, or thread pitch can be made to suit the application.
in some odd circumstances you also get M7 or M9. the drive plate to torque convertor bolts on a supra are M9 with an 11mm hex head, bucking the trend
of anything i mentioned above, hence it being a general rule of thumb.
hth
tom
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StevenB
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| posted on 31/5/08 at 09:42 PM |
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James,
Im using M10 x 35 Socket Caps (12.9).
Originally used hex bolts but scored the
paint off the hubs with the jaws of the
spanner as its a bit tight against the main body of the hub.
A few of my parts arrived with the first thread or so slightly blocked with powder.
Seat belt fixing points mostly (7/16 UNF)
I used a needle file to pick at the lead in thread and / or just took it slow when starting
with the odd reverse out to clear the powder as it chips off.
Cheers
Steve
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 1/6/08 at 12:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
Assuming you don't have a tap to hand, take a longish M10 bolt and using a hacksaw, cut a groove down the length of the bolt. Screw the bolt in
and it should clean the threads out.
Phil
This works a treat, done it many times. If you finish the cutting edges with a file and taper down the threads leading up the the cutting edge you
can make it work well enough to actually cut threads in softer materials such as aluminium alloy.
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