Beardy_John
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:22 PM |
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MIG vs TIG
Hi All,
Noobie welder here so if I have something wrong here, shoot me!
I can't decide between a MIG welder or a DC TIG welder. Am I right that DC TIG cant do Aluminium? I am about to start the book build, so not
sure if I would need to weld Alu anyway??
Everyone tells me that TIG is much more difficult for a begininer, but I think there's much more control with TIG?
Would appreciate people thoughts/experiences. I have about £200 to spend 
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blakep82
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:34 PM |
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there's been a lot of things i've needed to weld, but i've not 'needed' a tig welder yet.
for a beginner, Mig's fine, don't think you'll really need a tig for anything. even ally can be done with a mig (but not quite as
well)
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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mookaloid
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:35 PM |
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I don't think you'll get a TIG worth having for £200 but it would be handy to be able to weld ally.
I think a lot of people on here would choose MIG to weld up the chassis anyway as I believe it's quicker and you should get a reasonable MIG for
your budget
In an ideal world you'd have both!
Cheers
Mark
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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Wadders
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:35 PM |
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Trust me buy the mig and concentrate on the build. far easier to master than tig and quicker to boot, as you've sussed out, DC is only good for
steel and stainless, you don't need to weld ally to build a book car. £200 won't buy you a decent tig anyway
Al.
Originally posted by Beardy_John
Hi All,
Noobie welder here so if I have something wrong here, shoot me!
I can't decide between a MIG welder or a DC TIG welder. Am I right that DC TIG cant do Aluminium? I am about to start the book build, so not
sure if I would need to weld Alu anyway??
Everyone tells me that TIG is much more difficult for a begininer, but I think there's much more control with TIG?
Would appreciate people thoughts/experiences. I have about £200 to spend
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blakep82
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
I don't think you'll get a TIG worth having for £200
that too
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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tks
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:38 PM |
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For 130 pounds you can easyly buy an TIG machine, inverter mono phase.
i would buy TIG, saying that MIG is the best for an chasis.
TIG is also expensiver.
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Beardy_John
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:42 PM |
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I start thinking that TIG would be better, but this has confirmed that maybe MIG would be easier to start with.
Anyone suggest a good starter set for reasonalbe money? Always think Ebay can be a bit hit and miss.
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blakep82
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:46 PM |
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clarke ones are pretty decent.
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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UncleFista
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 07:46 PM |
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Clarke welders (machine mart) seem to be the best balance between quality/price for hobbyists.
For all the advice you need have a look at www.mig-welding.co.uk have a look in the forums, if you message
"Weldequip" he'll advise you and sell you a welder cheaper than most places and it'll be delivered, top man.
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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llionellis
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 08:00 PM |
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Mig welding is good for railings and gates. It's quick, easy to stick things together and welds tend to look good. Modern DIY machines are very
cheap. But not many skilled welders would choose to use Mig. It is very easy to be fooled into thinking that you have a good weld when in fact you
have only achieved what is called a cold lap. The weld bead has little or no penetration.
Second hand DC scratch start Tig machines can be found cheaply on ebay. The technique is not difficult to master the end results will always be
better than Mig.
For any welded component that I had to rely on I would prefer Tig
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Beardy_John
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 08:04 PM |
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oohh, now I am confused again.
I have read that both have there downfalls. MIG has problems with gap filling and filling in blown holes. TIG is difficult to master but produces a
better weldin the end.
I have been looking at the Rehmann 160A and 200A inverters on Ebay for a while and seem ok for the money.
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blakep82
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 08:08 PM |
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when you think about it, almost everything in life is a compromise. if there was one type of welding that was better than the others, without
exception, there would only be 1 type of welding!
its not that mig has cold lap weld problems, its that the person welding isn't doing it right  with practise though, you'll learn when
to see the signs of when the weld will blow through. you'll not weld perfectly straight off
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Wadders
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 08:19 PM |
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It really all depends what your welding, and the skill of the bloke holding the torch. A badly Tig welded chassis will be no better than a badly Mig
welded chassis.
IMHO as a beginner to welding, you have a better chance of picking up Mig technique faster, and it will be more than adequate for welding a locost
chassis.
Gap filling is easier with Mig BTW.
Al.
Just to add, look at 90% of bought seven chassis and you will find they are MIG welded, MK, ST, Westfield etc etc, can't be that bad can it? or
maybe they only use unskilled welders 
Originally posted by Beardy_John
TIG is difficult to master but produces a better weldin the end.
[Edited on 22/11/07 by Wadders]
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caber
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 08:22 PM |
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I used a cheap TIG for my build. I personally don't like MIG or Stick welding and was much happier using gas before I was introduced to TIG. My
welding technique is much more gas like than it should be but I do like the control of heat and filler separate this allows you to be more
controlling. The TIG puts a lot of heat just where you want it and once you get in the swing easily gets good penetration.
I was given a lot of guidance at the beginning by a very experienced TIG welder and I would suggest you get some expert guidance at the beginning. In
terms of equipment I wish I had bought a better set with HF start and AC so I could do aluminium. Scratch start is a bit of a pain and you end up
spending a lot of time grinding tungstens as they get contaminated , however it is so much nicer to work with, no splatter, no slag to chip off and
nice clean results.
Good luck whichever you use.
Caber
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907
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 09:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Beardy_John
I have been looking at the Rehmann 160A and 200A inverters on Ebay for a while and seem ok for the money.
Hi
U2U wilkingj
Geoff has a Mig, and a few weeks ago bought Rehmann 200
He'll give you a good idea of what both are like from a beginners point of view.
( I'm sure Geoff won't mind me saying that. A top bloke is Geoff )
If you wanted a go with a Tig you could have a play with mine.
Atb
Paul G
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mark chandler
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 10:09 PM |
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For a first timer mig, its eaiser and faster, downside is splatter, ie little blobs of weld that burn you.
Tig is a joy when you have the hang of it but is best suited to horizontal work but you can weld in a white suit and not get dirty !
If going mig make sure its at least 150 amps, the clarke 150te is a good budget choice.
Also gases, Mig is okay on CO2 so a pub bottle can be a very cheap source, I prefer the CO2/argon mix but you need to open an account with BOC etc and
rent a bottle. Better welds though.
TIG is pure argon so no cheap supply of gas, you may end up paying £150 for welder + £150 for the gas, it takes much longer and the gas is more
expensive.
Whatever you need to avid those little bottles, they will cost a fortune in the end, get a large one and proper regulator, saying that I have a 1/2
cougar for Mig so I can lump it around for field work.
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Peteff
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| posted on 22/11/07 at 11:47 PM |
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It's spatter not splatter
That sounds like a bad plasterer not a welder. Mig is going to be easier and cost less. If you have £200 go with mig.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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RazMan
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| posted on 23/11/07 at 08:45 AM |
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Having experimented with MIG during my first build I now intend to try TIG next time. There are quite a few cheap (<£200) rigs on eBay and a few
forum members are having good results with them.
After comparing the two types of welds I now regard my MIG as nothing more than a posh hot glue gun as you are literally pouring hot metal onto
cold. TIG is more like a true (gas) weld and will be stronger imo.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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NS Dev
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| posted on 23/11/07 at 12:45 PM |
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Go with MIG.
I have both, and use both. (I also have stick and access to gas)
I would select mig for "most" jobs, because its fast, easy and when set up right gives a perfectly strong job.
I "intended" to weld the spaceframe for my current grasser with the TIG set, but its just so slow that I ended up migging it all.
If you have plenty of spare time then TIG is fine, but bear in mind that, including prep time, to join two pieces of 25mm box section in a tee, will
take probably take 5 mins with the TIG and 1 min or so with the MIG.
I use the TIG for sheet work and anything that needs to be very accurate and look neat that can't be dressed.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Fred W B
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| posted on 23/11/07 at 03:36 PM |
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Another vote for MIg... Tacking up is MUCH easier with MIG, you can hold a part in position with one hand and tack with the other, to tack with TIG
you have to clamp everything.
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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Beardy_John
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| posted on 23/11/07 at 06:48 PM |
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A diverse set of responses!!
Seems about 50/50. MIG is easy for the beginer and quick. TIG more difficult but produces a better weld once mastered. I am in no rush with this
build.
907, might take you up on that offer. U2U on the way!!
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 23/11/07 at 07:26 PM |
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Don't forget to take into account that mig will run on pub co2, tig requires argon and the extra expense that goes with it
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Mansfield
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| posted on 23/11/07 at 08:42 PM |
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As a foot note to my above post:
Chinese TIG inverters have an awful reputation for reliability. I do not know if this bad rep is deserved or not. I know it works today, and would
give me lovely welds if I knew what I was up to.
If it went pop tomorrow, I dont think I would replace it with a proper one at £500+, I would buy a 151TE.
If it lasted a year and I got good at it, I would have to replace it.
Hopefully I will not be faced with this dilema.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 23/11/07 at 11:08 PM |
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Tig is better, but more expensive, and requires rented bottles of argon (disposable bottles are not worth the effort)
Mig and a bottle of pub CO2 is cheapest and probably easiest.
I have had nearly 40 years weilding a soldering iron. I cant get on so well with my Mig, but the Tig seems to be easier for me. I'm used to
having a heat source in one hand and the solder (filler) in the other hand, perhaps thats why I seem to find it easier with the TIG.
Buy a Low end commercial Mig rather than a expensive hobby range Mig.
Buy a good model. and preferably with a Euro Torch fitting.
My Mig is not that good , a SIP 150.
however in 8 years it has saved / made me far more money than it cost (£225 - 8 years ago).
I run a pub CO2 bottle. Argo shield is Far better (Argon / 5% CO2) or Cougar from Air Products)
Tig needs pure Argon and is more expensive, but IMHO give better results.
DC TIG wil do Mild and Stainless Steels.
AC is required to so Alluminium as well, but costs twice what a DC TIG set will cost you.
My Rehmann 200amp DC cost me £197 inc postage off Ebay. I have seen them from £150 to £260, so dont bid too high, as they come round frequently, and
the delivery was quick even from Germany.
A small argon bottle is £80 per year rent and £35 refil. However the BIG bottle is same rental and £65 refil but has about 5 times the gas in it, and
SAME rental from Air Liquide.
Seems to work OK, but if it goes wrong I am Fsek'd
However, Bang for buck its good value and works well. Less than a Pond (£) per Amp.
So I will try not to abuse it too much! Not like I have with the Mig.
hope this helps
[Edited on 24/11/2007 by wilkingj]
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/11/07 at 11:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
Tig is better, but more expensive, and requires rented bottles of argon (disposable bottles are not worth the effort)
Mig and a bottle of pub CO2 is cheapest and probably easiest.
Buy a Low end commercial Mig rather than a expensive hobby range Mig.
Buy a good model. and preferably with a Euro Torch fitting.
hope this helps
Good advice!!!!
ERP sell decent and cheap low end commercial machines in the UK, mine has been excellent, over 5 years and 150kg of wire.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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