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Author: Subject: To rivnut or rivet pclips
Catpuss

posted on 13/5/07 at 01:34 PM Reply With Quote
To rivnut or rivet pclips

I'm going to be putting in brake lines soon. Now would it be better to rivet the litle plastic pclips down, use rivnuts or self tappers.

I wonder if rivnuts are just a little overkill? I don't like self tappers much, always feels a bit like a bodge between riveting and rivnuts. Drilling and tapping could be another idea, but with the thinkess of the tubes, seems pretty pointless.

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ReMan

posted on 13/5/07 at 01:38 PM Reply With Quote
Rivet, Rivet!!

You can always drill them out if it was really nessesary, but it's unliikely. Rivnuts are overkill , self tappers are horrid

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bodger

posted on 13/5/07 at 01:39 PM Reply With Quote
As ReMan says.
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Mark Allanson

posted on 13/5/07 at 01:41 PM Reply With Quote
Rivnuts are better if you are going to move the cables frequently, but they make MUCH bigger holes in your chassis





If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation

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BenB

posted on 13/5/07 at 02:12 PM Reply With Quote
Rivet them. How often are you going to remove the p-clips? Not worth it and bigger holes means a weaker chassis.....
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StevieB

posted on 13/5/07 at 02:20 PM Reply With Quote
Rivnuts - you'll only ever need to rivnut once and you can change them as many times as you like. When you drill rivets out, you'll end up with lits bits of leftover rivet rattling atound the chassis. It's not a big deal, but you'll know it's there!
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David Jenkins

posted on 13/5/07 at 02:24 PM Reply With Quote
You won't hear rivet remnants rattling around in a seven, believe me!






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britishtrident

posted on 13/5/07 at 02:24 PM Reply With Quote
Use proper push in plastic brake pipe clips not P clips

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=S/CB10316





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
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Mark Allanson

posted on 13/5/07 at 03:28 PM Reply With Quote
Like these Rescued attachment Part Numbers.jpg
Rescued attachment Part Numbers.jpg






If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation

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907

posted on 13/5/07 at 03:47 PM Reply With Quote
I must admit I don't like drilling large holes in the chassis.

I used a 3.2 drill and tapped M4

Paul G






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stuart_g

posted on 13/5/07 at 04:12 PM Reply With Quote
why would you want the p clip to be removable holding you're brake lines in place? Rivet them in place you will never want to move it once fitted so make it permanant.
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StevieB

posted on 13/5/07 at 04:49 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stuart_g
why would you want the p clip to be removable holding you're brake lines in place? Rivet them in place you will never want to move it once fitted so make it permanant.


Unless you have a problem with your brake pipes and need to replace them

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MikeRJ

posted on 13/5/07 at 06:11 PM Reply With Quote
I grabbed a big handfull of various plastic pipe clips from a stand at Stoneligh, only came to a few quid and they have several advantages:

1) Small hole required in chassis
2) No bi-metalic corrosion issues
3) Pipe can be removed and replaced without removing clip or drilling out rivets.

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John Bonnett

posted on 13/5/07 at 06:40 PM Reply With Quote
quote
I must admit I don't like drilling large holes in the chassis.

I used a 3.2 drill and tapped M4

I agree, tap a thread using M3 or M4. You may think that you will never need to re-route or remove the brake pipes but believe me, it does happen and has to me. Normally brake lines are fitted before panelling when you have full access for a drill. It's a different story once the panels are in place but generally there is room for a screwdriver or Allen key to remove the screws holding the clips. I try to make everything removable and accessible for service. A bit more trouble at the time but in the end well worth it.

John






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iank

posted on 13/5/07 at 09:16 PM Reply With Quote
How strong is a tapped hole in 1.6mm steel? (question for the experts)
I'd have thought they'd have stripped really easily.





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Anonymous

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JB
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Building: Built: V8 Kitten, 2 litre Lada, Space frame Minor,

posted on 15/5/07 at 06:49 PM Reply With Quote
Securing Brake Pipes

I have rivetted on P clips using aluminium headed rivets and the heads have come off some after a period of time.

The hammer in plastic clips are OK but again have had problems with them braking.

Rivnuts are the most secure method but costs more, is more complicated and is heavier.

I rivet mine now with good quality rivets.

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Catpuss

posted on 15/5/07 at 09:21 PM Reply With Quote
One thing I was thinking of, is like the new Haynes manual, rivet along a strip of steel then rivnut and screw the strip in place. I could use say 150-200mm intervals for P clips then rivnuts at say 300 mm appart as long as the strip ended up ridged enough.
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Macbeast

posted on 16/5/07 at 03:54 AM Reply With Quote
OMG !!!

Dear Abby

I just ordered rivets to fix floor to chassis etc, but someone here mentioned dissimilar metal corrosion.

I ordered aluminium rivets - should I have ordered steel ? But the floor is aluminium so is there a right answer ?

Worried dot com


Edited 08.34

My Guru says ally rivets ok - phew

[Edited on 16/5/07 by Macbeast]

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Alex B

posted on 16/5/07 at 07:46 PM Reply With Quote
Dip your rivet in a drop of Sikaflex or heavy paint. Push in hole and pop it off........no issues. I drilled and tapped 8mm square ally rod spacers. Rivetted them in with Sikaflex again as a barrier, then fixed the P clips with 4 mm set screws.......time consuming but what`s the rush?

Alex

Alex

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