JoelP
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| posted on 27/1/07 at 04:14 PM |
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my liner
bloody thing, its started to get stiff and now the wire feed is playing up. Is there a way to lubricate it or do i just need a new one? Whats the
crack with teflon liners, are they worth it for mild welding or is it just needed for stainless? Also, if i do the liner i will get a new torch, last
time i complained about it someone suggested that i upgrade to a euro torch, what are these? Any good places for any of the above?!
Welder is a clark mig 135 ish.
Thanks in advance!
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BenB
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| posted on 27/1/07 at 05:04 PM |
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Euro torch is a type of screw on torch IIRC. Looks like
obviously makes it easier to swap torches...
When I looked @ Mig spares, teflon weren't that much more than normal and considering how much of a pain it is to change the liner I paid a bit
more for a longer life....
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Peteff
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| posted on 27/1/07 at 05:35 PM |
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You can get a euro conversion for diy mig from welduk on ebay. You don't need teflon for stainless but it's best for aluminium. Get a
coiled wire liner if you want it to last but if it's your gun that's sticking it will not help. Check if there's a piece of plastic
liner in the swan neck and if there is melt it out and leave it out. They cause more problems than they cure.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Danozeman
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| posted on 27/1/07 at 06:04 PM |
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I put the coiled wire liner in mine. Works well and makes the whole torch lead have more spring so it doesnt bend as easy.
For as small welder i wouldnt bother with the euro conversion.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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JoelP
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| posted on 27/1/07 at 07:21 PM |
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the other problem i have with my torch, is that when the wire sticks to the tip, it pushes the swan neck out of the torch, which then shortcircuits if
you dont notice. So i either need to stick it in proper (might solder it?) or just get a new one. Ive had good use out of it, maybe its time to
upgrade to a bigger unit anyway, im getting a bit sick of the simplistic controls.
Cheers for the help chaps. 
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Alex B
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| posted on 28/1/07 at 11:24 AM |
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Machine Mart do a kit for 20quid. New wire liner swan and tips , shrouds. Also the litte liner in torch neck. Fiddly to fit.
Don`t know about Clark but my Sip had a little grub screw to hold neck in place . I took it out and re-tapped a 4mm stud with a slot to scew it down
flush.......more secure. I`ve upgraded to a Portamig 210......wow!! If you have the dough get another unit.
Alex
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JoelP
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| posted on 3/2/07 at 05:13 PM |
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well i fitted a new teflon liner today, had to dissemble most of the machine to get it done! A pair of captive nuts rather than free nuts
would've saved taking most of it apart...
Seems the main cause is surface rust on the wire. There's about 4kgs of a 5kg roll left unfortunately, so im unwilling to chuck it out. Is there
owt i can do to help get it used? Oiling it seems a bad idea!  I have enough liner to change it next time anyway, as it was more than twice as long
as needed.
Cheers!
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Minicooper
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| posted on 3/2/07 at 06:22 PM |
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Once the wire is rusty it's scrap, change it for the sake of a tenner
I used to spray WD40 into the liner on a regular basis to keep it moving freely.
To prevent the wire going rusty in the first place, I use the silica gell packets that you get with new mig wire, I got about 10 of them lying in the
bottom of the welder, a spray of wd40 on the wire now and then helps
Cheers
David
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Peteff
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| posted on 3/2/07 at 07:29 PM |
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Clamp a bit of wire wool round it with a clothes peg before it goes into the liner and see if that helps. The rust will wear the teflon liner out in
no time, it's very abrasive.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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JoelP
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| posted on 3/2/07 at 07:54 PM |
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what would be good would be a wire brush and a small hoover, failing that wire wool is a good idea, unless that rusts too! Can you get stainless
wire wool?!
I have a lot of welding to do over the next few days, might just use it for that and then chuck the rest before it gets worse.
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JoelP
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| posted on 4/2/07 at 05:37 PM |
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well, you were right. Rusty wire is indeed scrap.  Seems the flakyness stops the feed wheel gripping it properly. Thinking about it, it was a bit
dumb of me buying a 5kg roll when i use it so infrequently.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/2/07 at 11:46 AM |
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hmmm, my 15Kg roll has some brown stuff on it.....doh!!!
worth unrolling a good few metres to take the outside of the roll off, its only usually that that rusts.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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JoelP
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| posted on 16/2/07 at 09:50 PM |
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im gonna burn this machine soon
back to plan A, and get a coiled wire liner, as the teflon one is a bad fit:
 
Rescued attachment wire1.JPG
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Alex B
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| posted on 16/2/07 at 11:30 PM |
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Sorry Joel I burst out laughing when I saw that. Coiled wire kit like I said before..it`s a Clark item. When your finished with welder wrap two poly
bin bags around wire spool then put lid on machine. Stops wire from oxidising.
Alex
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Peteff
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| posted on 17/2/07 at 09:38 AM |
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Told you so !
Don't disturb that till the eggs have hatched and get a coiled liner from a welding supplier, half the price of Clarkes and probably enough to
do a diy mig twice.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Minicooper
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| posted on 17/2/07 at 12:10 PM |
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First of all Joel you have got the wire rollers far far too tight I can see it's so tight it's putting a patern on the wire!
Did you renew the swan neck, without a good tight electrical connection it will stick as the torch moves, a similar thing happens when the tip is not
tight or you have poor current return.
If your having particular problems with 0.6 try 0.8 it is much stronger and less prone to collapsing
I know the Clarke hasn't got a great reputation but they should be ok
One more thing if it sticks stop straight away!
New wire, new tip, maybe liner, tighten/replace swan neck, back the roller tension right off, feed the new wire through, leave tip off for the moment,
where the wire comes out of the swan neck , grab it between fore finger and thumb, trigger it through, tension the rollers a bit at the time, until
you can just stop the wire feeding and the rollers slip. The rollers are meant to slip if the wire snags for any reason, from this point you should
only need to make small adjustments to tension
Cheers
David
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JoelP
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| posted on 18/2/07 at 11:02 AM |
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cheers for that!
I tightened the rollers up to force it through, this happened as i was feeding the new wire in, unfortunately because the teflon liner was too small i
wrapped it in insulation tape so it was still clamped, this however put a kink in it after the tape. The wire came through the side immediately, hence
i kept cranking it wondering when it would come out of the torch! I had the tip off, and i believe it is 0.8mm wire anyway.
Im a bit pissed off i threw the old liner out anyway, i suspect there was nothing wrong with it, and the original slipping was caused by the rust.
Just hope i didnt burn the feed motor out with this debacle
And yes, i thought the picture would get a few chuckles!
Cheers all.
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