bpgoa
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| posted on 4/10/06 at 08:11 PM |
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cutting the chassis tube
someone suggested using a wood mitre saw .. a different blade ... and a speed controller... to cut chassis tube... has anyone done this and if so
where to get the speed controller and blade (tct)?
or is this a daft idea/////11
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flak monkey
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| posted on 4/10/06 at 08:18 PM |
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Hacksaw? 
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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daviep
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| posted on 4/10/06 at 08:21 PM |
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I hate to say it cos I want a machine for everything but a good sharp hacksaw used carefully is probably the most accurate method for cutting the
chassis tubes!!
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 4/10/06 at 08:24 PM |
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I agree. That and and the slight groove you'll wear into your thumb nail from all the sawing works just great.
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joolsmi16
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| posted on 4/10/06 at 08:30 PM |
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Mitre cutting
I used one of these with a little practise nothing is quicker and its very accurate.
 
Rescued attachment HBS120EX500.jpg
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ecosse
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| posted on 4/10/06 at 08:32 PM |
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I bought a proper chopsaw to do it, £50 from Cromwell, it would have cost me that much in broken hacksaw blades anyway
Cheers
Alex
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Danozeman
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 05:47 AM |
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I tried a hand mitre saw with a metal blade in it. The angles were somewhere there but not perfect and they dont cut perfectly straight.
quote:
it would have cost me that much in broken hacksaw blades anyway
I bought some blades that cost me 2 quid each. Think they were nickel something or other. I used 2 to cut all the metal to length for my chassis
when i was making one and ones still going albeit it on its last legs.. That was about 5/6 years ago maybe longer.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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JoelP
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 07:44 AM |
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my bandsaw still doesnt cut quite straight, but i guess thats cos its a clark one and probably chinese to boot. No matter how much i fiddle its never
quite right.
Abrasive chopssaws are quick but very noisy, and someone said that they arent a perfect cut anyway.
Most accurate for a budget is undoubtedly a scribe, hacksaw and file process, unless you splash out on a high quality bandsaw.
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SeaBass
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 08:29 AM |
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I used one of these...
Pedrazzoli Brown slow speed metal chop saw. Very nice piece of kit - fortunately happened to have one lying at work. It hadn't been used for
about three years. I cleaned and recomissioned it including getting a new disc. Like a knife through butter.
Cheers
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DavidM
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 12:09 PM |
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If you use a hacksaw it will build up your muscles ready for the 100 odd times you have to fit all the components and then take them out again.
Of course true locosters would gnaw through the tubes with their teeth, and finish the ends by scraping the tubes against a concrete floor.
That's why my build took six years!
David
Proportion is Everything
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 12:17 PM |
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Getting back to that argument I've read about true Locosters making their own tube from scratch here. Great thread that was.
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russbost
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 12:24 PM |
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Buy a chop saw, brilliant tool, tho' not as good for removing fingers as a ripsaw.
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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ecosse
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 02:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Danozeman
I bought some blades that cost me 2 quid each. Think they were nickel something or other. I used 2 to cut all the metal to length for my chassis
when i was making one and ones still going albeit it on its last legs.. That was about 5/6 years ago maybe longer.
Dan, you are obviously more talented with a hacksaw than me I did try but used 2 blades to make about 5 cuts (none of which were straight!) and gave
up
The chop saw is noisey and not accurate if using the standard degree marks, so I used a proper adjustable square to set the cuts and have to say it
worked perfectly
Cheers
Alex
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robertst
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 05:13 PM |
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i posted this same question a while back now... and from my experience, i tried an angle grinder, a bigger angle grinder, a jig-saw, a chop saw and,
when frustration started to build up) even started to consider a chainsaw.
but honestly nothing beats the hacksaw. ok, you take longer but think about this: you spend the same amount of time filing down the faces of the tubes
to fit if you are using anything electric.
cutting each face at a time with a hacksaw is foolproof.
i took a week to cut down all the tubes (i did them in one go) working 4 hours a day. and now i can lift 20kgs more with my right arm as opposed to my
left arm
Tom
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bpgoa
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 06:03 PM |
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Lazy bones
It seems tempting to buy one of the small chinese band saw's from machine mart.. and then i can use it to cut the wish bones
any thoughts
On and On the River flows... We the Undertow
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JoelP
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| posted on 5/10/06 at 06:19 PM |
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it isnt well made. Many of the bolts and clamps broke, i now use one clamp to hold the angle correct and another to hold the jaws shut. Add to this it
doesnt cut straight and the band falls off unless you take a little weight off the teeth (ie support it through the entire cut).
If noise isnt a problem get an abrasive saw, but remember it is basically an anglegrinder and VERY loud.
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bpgoa
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 10:31 PM |
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just in case anyone cares... i used a hacksaw... with all hard 32 tpi blades..
it worked really well... and didn't need much in the way of filing...
On and On the River flows... We the Undertow
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 26/12/06 at 11:12 PM |
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I used a hacksaw as well, it's not that slow once you get a bit of practice. Buy decent blades though, not the Machine Mart "very-high
carbon-shatter-if-you-look-at-it -too-hard" specials.
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bpgoa
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| posted on 2/1/07 at 11:09 PM |
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I used Eclipse 32 tpi "All Hard" blades from Tilgear in Cuffley (probably the best toolshop in the country) on their recomendation..
They said they would cut straighter.. but would snap easier if I twisted the blade...
FYI, they sugested the Bi metal blades for the "unpractised"..
so far I've only used 1 blade and that snapped ... and most tubes are cut (chassis).. suspension next..
On and On the River flows... We the Undertow
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 08:48 AM |
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i have a makita abrasive chop saw but i haven't used it yet, so my contribution is not that helpful
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macnab
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 09:27 AM |
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Buy the best blades you can get, quite amazing the difference it makes, really good ones last for ages plus buy a good quality hacksaw frame. I also
spray WD40 on to the metal beforehand, which seems to keep things cool. With all that using a hacksaw is a real pleasure and more than fast enough.
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 09:42 AM |
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I've used a 'wood saw' for the last 20 years. Put a 350mm abrasive cutoff disc in and it doesn't care if it is steel or what.
Compound mitres and all.
Only one new set of belts and a single phase motor(was 3 phase) in all that time. Made numerous chassis/trailers/fabricated things from steel. Put a
metal toothed blade in for chopping ali and wood.
Cheers,
Syd.
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