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Author: Subject: Tapping ali bar for rose joints
Avoneer

posted on 11/2/06 at 06:10 PM Reply With Quote
Tapping ali bar for rose joints

Can I tap a solid 20mm ali bar so that an M12 rose joint can bolt on one end?

It's won't be in a very stressed application as will just be one end of the rotating bar that my top paddle shift rocker is attached to.

Pat...





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Hellfire

posted on 11/2/06 at 06:36 PM Reply With Quote
Yes.






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Jon Ison

posted on 11/2/06 at 06:48 PM Reply With Quote
Cant see any reason why not in that application.






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flak monkey

posted on 11/2/06 at 06:50 PM Reply With Quote
Yep, you need to drill a 10.2mm hole (assuming its M12x1.75 coarse, or 10.75mm if its M12x1.25 fine.

David

PS the quick way to get an approximate tapping drill size for any metric ISO thread is to subtract the pitch from the OD of the thread.





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Avoneer

posted on 11/2/06 at 08:51 PM Reply With Quote
Will I get away with 10mm ?

Pat...





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diyer

posted on 11/2/06 at 09:06 PM Reply With Quote
yes should do, as its aluminium
Simon

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Mark Allanson

posted on 11/2/06 at 10:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Will I get away with 10mm ?

Pat...


If you want it to cut 10.2mm, sharpen one of the lands to 5.1mm (leave the other alone)





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Avoneer

posted on 12/2/06 at 01:40 AM Reply With Quote
Any ideas how I could drill a hole into the centre of it to tap without a lathe?

Pat...





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Jon Ison

posted on 12/2/06 at 09:30 AM Reply With Quote
I assume you mean on edge ?






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Avoneer

posted on 12/2/06 at 10:08 AM Reply With Quote
Down the centre of the tube.

Usually done with the ali bar in lathe chuck and drill bit in stock end.

Pat...





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Peteff

posted on 12/2/06 at 10:46 AM Reply With Quote
I tapped one to take a 12mm bolt for a spindle on the grandson's pushchair and it's lasted 2 years so far. It was only an insert and I drilled it in the pillar drill. M12 sounds chunky for a gearshift application.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Syd Bridge

posted on 12/2/06 at 03:49 PM Reply With Quote
A twisted flute tap helps a lot. And if you haven't got a 10.2 mm drill, go a little bigger, as ali tends to 'flow' or 'shape' as the tap goes in.

Use lots of wd40 to lube as well.

Syd.

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Avoneer

posted on 12/2/06 at 05:22 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers guys.

Managed to do it.

Found a piece of 24mm ali tube with a 10mm hole already through it.

Tapped it with cutting compound (smelly green sh*t) and it all worked out lovely in the end.

Cheers,

Pat... Rescued attachment DSCF0022.JPG
Rescued attachment DSCF0022.JPG






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NS Dev

posted on 12/2/06 at 09:03 PM Reply With Quote
Bobs your uncle, nice job. Some nice welds on that chassis too (shame about the rust!) did you do it?





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johnjulie

posted on 12/2/06 at 10:15 PM Reply With Quote
Have you got access to a good bench drill?
Hold the bar in a drill vice, and use a square to get it vertical. Use a small 1/8" or similar metric drill to start with, less chance of wandering off centre. Then build up to the size you need. Carefully!!
Ideally you need a lathe, no one you know got one? Check for a model engineering club near you.
Cheers John





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johnjulie

posted on 12/2/06 at 10:17 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry It was a bit late, hadn't got to page 2. Wot a plonker!!!!
Cheers John





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Avoneer

posted on 12/2/06 at 10:26 PM Reply With Quote
No probs.

Found a bar (part of the engine mounts) but this can be replaed later.

Chassis was welded up by my friend in exchange for an LSD - I can only tack!

Rust should be gone by next week and the whole lot nice and shiny black.

Pat...





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Avoneer

posted on 12/2/06 at 11:03 PM Reply With Quote
No probs.

Found a bar (part of the engine mounts) but this can be replaed later.

Chassis was welded up by my friend in exchange for an LSD - I can only tack!

Rust should be gone by next week and the whole lot nice and shiny black.

Pat...





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