Aloupol
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| posted on 11/7/05 at 08:09 PM |
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Is this tool useful for chassis building?
This thing is available to me in the local supermarket for only 40€, something like 25£.
Will it be the right weapon to cut the chassis tubes?
The possibility to tilt in 2 planes for compound angles and the laser pointer for lenght control inspire me.
It seems to be designed for wood but probably possible to place a grinder or steel saw disc.
5000 rpm and 1200 W don't say anithing to me, is it sound to you?
[Edited on 11/7/05 by Aloupol]
[Edited on 11/7/05 by Aloupol]
 
Rescued attachment Scie.JPG
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tks
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| posted on 11/7/05 at 08:25 PM |
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yes!
it is sound!
but offcourse only if you can find the disks?
how much should one unit costs in euro's
and where do they sell it?
Lidl?Media Markt?Aldi??
want one to!
Tks
does remind me..only one important thing!
is the rpm adjustable?? because..an iron saw blade doesn't run at 5000rpm i guess... the smaller de diameter the more luck you can have..
altough if you use an angle grinder blade it doesn't matter!
[Edited on 11/7/05 by tks]
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Aloupol
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| posted on 11/7/05 at 08:38 PM |
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I'm afraid the rpm is not adjustable. I will ask tomorow to the bloke at the factory who orders all the cutting tools. He knows everything about
the cut speeds, teeth shape, blade supliers etc.
If absolutely necessary I think it's possible to change the motor by the one from another tool.
I saw this at the Aldi in Boncelles near Liège, there are only a few left and nothing in the other Aldi shops.
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JoelP
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| posted on 11/7/05 at 09:11 PM |
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if you replace the blade with a grinder disc, the rpm doesnt matter. Only relevant if it is a toothed saw blade.  1200w sounds ok for the task.
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Alan_Thomas
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| posted on 11/7/05 at 09:12 PM |
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I used a hacksaw, I think it is very character building and besides it is a lot cheaper than joining some trendy gym and you get the same workout.
Having thought about this some more the downside is there are no 'fit' birds prancing around in Lycra in my workshop!
- Alan
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niceperson709
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| posted on 11/7/05 at 11:31 PM |
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I used a similar GMC saw to cut my chassis just replaced the blade with and abrasive cutting disc . You will find hoever that as the disc wears down
packing under the steel to be cut will be necessary . Oh and you must wear eye and ear protection as it is noisy and messy but acurate cuts are easy
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Best wishes
Iain
Best wishes IAIN
life is not the rehearsal , it's the show so don't sit there thinking about it DO IT NOW
http://iainseven.wordpress.com/
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Aloupol
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 07:16 AM |
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Well, pros and cons..
My collegue says it will do a good job with a thick grinder disc. Much beter result with a small teeth blade and reduced rpm.
If there is no speed control I will connect an iron in serial to reduce the watts 
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Bob C
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 10:05 AM |
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Iron in series not good for reducing watts cos they switch on & off to control temp.
Use a kettle. When it boils stop cutting, have a brew & refil with cold water...
cheers
Bob
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tks
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 11:47 AM |
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mhhh
wy no make it rpm adjustable?
solid state relais
microcontroller..
and you can go through the rpm's!
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 11:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
if you replace the blade with a grinder disc, the rpm doesnt matter. Only relevant if it is a toothed saw blade. 1200w sounds ok for the task.
sorry Joel but that is complete boll0cks!
A grinding disc is designed to run at a very critical speed. (more so than a toothed blade!) Too slow and it will glaze up and overheat and not cut,
too fast and it will explode and do the user some serious damage.
If you can fit a 9" (230mm) cutting disc then you should be ok with that saw though. Ideally should be nearer 6000rpm but 5000 should be ok if
you are only cutting thin box sections etc.
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Triton
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 01:03 PM |
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Much safer to use the right kit in the first place...or get out that trusty hacksaw......cutting discs exploding aint much fun......
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 01:08 PM |
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My concern with using a grinding disc is the mess and the fire hazard - sparks goes everywhere, and when they stop twinkling yellow they're
filthy, gritty bits of burnt metal that get everywhere. Grinding's noisy, too.
Get the best hacksaw frame you can afford, a pack of good-quality bi-metal blades, and do it by hand. It really isn't hard, and doesn't
take much longer than doing it with a power tool.
Keeps you fit, too! 
David
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JonBowden
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 03:50 PM |
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quote:
Much safer to use the right kit in the first place
Can anyone tell me what is the right kit?
I held off buying one as I wanted one that would cut both wood and metal. In the end I had to get a wood only one from B&Q. It was one of these
ones with a laser - saw is great, laser lasted about 5 mins before giving up.
Jon
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Mix
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 03:57 PM |
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I'm another advocate of the decent hacksaw approach. It doesn't take long to learn how to cut to a line and the money you save can be
better spent on something you can't do yourself.
Mick
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Aloupol
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 08:56 PM |
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I noticed that it's more easy and more clean to cut tubes with a simple hacksaw than with an angle grinder whitch produces a lot of sparks,
heat, noise and danger.
The only added value of this tool is the jig system with angle index and laser pointer but I don't think it's that accurate on a 40€
thing..
The best way remains to mark and cut by hand with hacksaw or, if there are much compound angles, to build a simple jig with angle index in 2 planes
and a slider for the saw blade. Will think a bit about that one of these nights.
Anyway my first cut wil occur in at least 6 or 8 months, no pressure then.
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JoelP
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 09:19 PM |
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i used a bandsaw from machine mart. Not too expensive, very quite and the teeth last for ages cos theres so many of them! In fact, it snapped before
it went blunt
Only problem is trying to keep the blade square, quite bad for that in fact.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 09:32 PM |
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I use the same Joel, and yup, they do seem very adept at cutting on the skew, but then with patience in the setting up (shimming the guide roll
holders on mine) they are "reasonably" accurate, with the benefits of quietness and cleanness!
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JoelP
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 09:37 PM |
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nice to know its not just me! I tried adjusting it once, but its minute adjustments to change the angle quite a lot. I figued it doesnt really matter
on my first build, as its crap anyway, but for my next chassis i will cut them all by hand, and fettle it to perfection.
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niceperson709
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| posted on 12/7/05 at 10:25 PM |
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sorry Joel but that is complete boll0cks!
A grinding disc is designed to run at a very critical speed. (more so than a toothed blade!) Too slow and it will glaze up and overheat and not cut,
too fast and it will explode and do the user some serious damage.
If you can fit a 9" (230mm) cutting disc then you should be ok with that saw though. Ideally should be nearer 6000rpm but 5000 should be ok if
you are only cutting thin box sections etc.
##############################################################
Look it seems to me that all the worrry about ideal speed for cutting with a disc my be theeroecticlly true but in actuality it is irrelevent i KNOW
FROM the experiance of ACTUALLY Using a drop saw with a cutting disc that it works fine . I also know that if you slow the saw down by any method as
sugested is sure to reduce the tourque available for the disc to cut and cause less than optimum cooling for the motor . I cut All of the steel for my
chassis and wore out two cutting discs in the process . The real trick is to avoid using to much preasure as you cut and then you will get the acuracy
that you need for this project . My GMC saw cost 65 AUD it still works fine .
I will conceed that it is noisy and dirty but you can work around that . Hack saw is fine but there are a lot of cuts to be made and if you want every
session in the shed to be a work out fine cut the lot with a saw but I have been at the building game for 18 months now and my progress would be much
less if I had gone the manual route.There are enough tasks with building one of these cars with out deliberately trying to make it harder
This is one area where you can forget the theory and go with what is proven to work . Any way I have seen cheap METAL cut of saws in my local
BUNNINGS hard ware store here in Oz and I am sure that sores in your part of the world would not be that much different. Remember although you may
give a wood saw a canning doing this that you really only need it to last untill you have finished your build not for years of doing this sort of
thing in an industrial situation.
Best wishes
Iain
Best wishes IAIN
life is not the rehearsal , it's the show so don't sit there thinking about it DO IT NOW
http://iainseven.wordpress.com/
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 13/7/05 at 03:42 AM |
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I used a cheap chop saw I bought n the states to cut all my metal. Had no probs at all. The only pain was that being an American make, the discs were
a slightly different size, and I had to get new ones from the US. Never had one shatter, but always used goggles in case.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 13/7/05 at 07:40 AM |
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quote:
Look it seems to me that all the worrry about ideal speed for cutting with a disc my be theeroecticlly true but in actuality it is
irrelevent i KNOW FROM the experiance of ACTUALLY Using a drop saw with a cutting disc that it works fine
................as long as you don't slow it down by much. I use an abrasive sutoff machine most days at work for cutting various materials, and
can say from experience that using too low an rpm, especially on thick sections, glazes the disc up and slows the cut to a crawl!!
I also know that if you slow the saw down by any method as sugested is sure to reduce the tourque available for the disc to cut and cause
less than optimum cooling for the motor.
very true, I certainly wouldn't bother doing that!
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JonBowden
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| posted on 13/7/05 at 02:50 PM |
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I think this is what you want
http://www.dewalt.co.uk/products.asp?lid=1&mktid=2&catno=DW872&hierarchyID1=1&hierarchyID2=2&hierarchyID3=7&bucketid=6
&sid=1
apparently it spins at 1300 rpm with no load.
Oh, forgot to mention - it costs alot
[Edited on 13/7/05 by JonBowden]
Jon
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cassidym
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| posted on 14/7/05 at 12:19 PM |
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I've got the Makita Cold Cutoff Saw, I think the Dewalt is the same. Very nice, very nice money also and the blades, altho they last very long
they cost an arm and a leg.
Works like a charm on thick stuff. On less than 3-4 mm it is still reasonably accurate but cutting with a hacksaw will produce a truer face.
Useless for sheet metal - look for soemthingh like the Evolution Circular Saw.
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JonBowden
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| posted on 14/7/05 at 12:29 PM |
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So, does this mean that the only practical power saws for steel tubing cost £200 - £300 with £100+ blades ?
Anyone got a DIY locost design ?
Jon
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cassidym
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| posted on 14/7/05 at 01:05 PM |
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My opinion is that for Locost tubing an abrasive cut off saw will do as fine as a cold cut off one.
I found that the top and bottom face is usually OK but the sides maybe off by about .5mm or even less especially as the blade gets to the bottom
surface. I'm quite sure this tolerance is good enough tho - so it does'nt worry me a lot.
Yes, the cold cutoff saw has got a few advantages but if you're looking for a 100% true face on such thin walled tubing you should look at
either bandsaws, power hacksaws or use a hand hacksaw.
Maybe an ordinary grinder with a 1mm or .8mm stainless disc will also produce a very high level of accuracy.
So a good $100 abrasive saw will do fine, I say.
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