40inches
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 09:31 AM |
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Putting a smooth edge on ally and perspex.
With an old hacksaw blade, using a Dremel or the edge of a grinding wheel, cut a groove in the straight edge a little wider than
the material, draw the blade along the edge, until you have the desired finish. Practice makes perfect 
 
Description
 
Description
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bi22le
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 09:59 AM |
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Yours is cheaper, but not by much.
This is the proper tool that we use at work.
Deburring Tool. For use on Steel, Copper, Plastic, Brass and Aluminium.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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loggyboy
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 10:02 AM |
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whats wrong with varying grades of sand/oxide paper?
Mistral Motorsport
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loggyboy
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 10:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
Yours is cheaper, but not by much.
This is the proper tool that we use at work.
Deburring Tool. For use on Steel, Copper, Plastic, Brass and Aluminium.
I bought one of those to debur the rivet holes when panelling, snapped it after about 10mins so gave up!
Mistral Motorsport
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40inches
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 10:20 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
whats wrong with varying grades of sand/oxide paper?
This is quicker, easier and gives a consistent radius, the profile is the same as the blades 
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40inches
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 10:25 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
Yours is cheaper, but not by much.
This is the proper tool that we use at work.
Deburring Tool. For use on Steel, Copper, Plastic, Brass and Aluminium.
Different tool for a different job. I wanted a round edge, not just a de-burr, on sheet without faffing about with files and abrasives, gives a nice
finish very quickly, and works very well on perspex and polycarbonate sheet. 
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Smoking Frog
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 10:46 AM |
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Nice tip, will try it on some lexan. Thanks
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40inches
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 11:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Smoking Frog
Nice tip, will try it on some lexan. Thanks
Practice on an off cut, it works better at a slight back angle.
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Peteff
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 11:07 AM |
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I have a deburring tool for jobs like exhaust exit holes and it has lasted years. A countersink will do rivet holes in aluminium better than a burr
tool
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 11:13 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
I have a deburring tool for jobs like exhaust exit holes and it has lasted years. A countersink will do rivet holes in aluminium better than a burr
tool
Indeed, but not on the inside edge the chassis tubes though!
Mistral Motorsport
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bi22le
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 11:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
I have a deburring tool for jobs like exhaust exit holes and it has lasted years. A countersink will do rivet holes in aluminium better than a burr
tool
Indeed, but not on the inside edge the chassis tubes though!
Why would you want to do that?
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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loggyboy
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 01:24 PM |
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To ensure the rivet gets a clean seal agains the rim. Ive used sealed rivets to restrict moisture getting inside the chassis tubes, so wanted to carry
that theme on.
I also didnt want any small burrs rattling around in there and was going to suck them all out!. After I broke it, I went on to add waxoyl to not only
keep rust at bay, but it will trap any small bits of loose swarf anyway.
Mistral Motorsport
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Peteff
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 03:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
To ensure the rivet gets a clean seal agains the rim. Ive used sealed rivets to restrict moisture getting inside the chassis tubes, so wanted to carry
that theme on.
I also didnt want any small burrs rattling around in there and was going to suck them all out!. After I broke it, I went on to add waxoyl to not only
keep rust at bay, but it will trap any small bits of loose swarf anyway.
The end of the stem stays in any rivet blocking the hole, worrying about moisture getting in the chassis is bordering on paranoia and if you can hear
swarf rattling inside your chassis tubes you must have super powers or you are not going fast enough
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 04:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
To ensure the rivet gets a clean seal agains the rim. Ive used sealed rivets to restrict moisture getting inside the chassis tubes, so wanted to carry
that theme on.
I also didnt want any small burrs rattling around in there and was going to suck them all out!. After I broke it, I went on to add waxoyl to not only
keep rust at bay, but it will trap any small bits of loose swarf anyway.
The end of the stem stays in any rivet blocking the hole, worrying about moisture getting in the chassis is bordering on paranoia and if you can hear
swarf rattling inside your chassis tubes you must have super powers or you are not going fast enough
Vapour can get through, link
And I got all the rivets I needed and probalbly 3 times more for £30 so was happy to switch to them
Mistral Motorsport
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 06:19 PM |
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At school we managed to achieve a smooth, radiused and transparent edge using a polishing mop on a bench grinder. I've never tried it since.
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