flak monkey
|
| posted on 12/12/10 at 07:28 PM |
|
|
Workshop heating....check....
Picked up 6 (yes 6) empty 19kg as bottles yesterday and today set about making 2 wood burners. Started at 12:30 and just finished the second one.
Suprised how quickly they go together really. Though the plasma cutter really helped (first proper job I have had for it)
So we have gone from this:
 
Wood burner 1
To this:
 
Wood burner 2
x2
One for my workshop and one for the main workshop. Hopefully they should make it a more pleasant place to be. Just need to find some 4" pipe for
flues now, have cut the holes in the back already.
First cut the handle/guard off the top with an angle grinder and slitting wheel (make sure the valves shut for this...)
Then hacksaw off the valve as it wont come undone no matter how hard you pull and hit it with a 4ft bar.
Drill 8 holes around the valve at the top, near to the welded boss. Then use a metal cuttung blade in a jigsaw to cut it out. At this point it will
smell a bit, but nothing too worrying.
Once that hole is cut you are good to go with the angle grinder. If anything does pop or bang it's got somewhere to go and vent. That said,
nothing spectacular happened on either of these 2.
Marked out the door, 8" from the bottom of the cylinder, and the door is 7" high.
Drilled a hole in each corner, then cut out with slitting blade in angle grinder.
Welded on 18g steel strip around the door, 1" wide. Hinge side is welded on inside, so the whole door is sealed. Hinges are heavy duty door
hinges (4mm thick plate).
Door latch simply jams the door shut on a weld bead (flatted with the grinder), and pivots on an 8mm bolt welded on from inside, theres another bolt
for it to rest against when the door is open. Really simple and solid way of keeping the door shut! Welded on a U bolt as something to open the door
with as well.
The vent at the front is 50x50x1.5mm box with a butterfly type arrangement made from a bolt and a piece of 16g plate. Then a small length of tube as a
lever. Hole was marked out and cut with the plasma cutter. Top of the vent is level with the weld bead around the cylinder.
Cut out a 4" hole in the back of the cylinder, again with the plasma cutter. Cut on the tight curve on the back edge so the pipe will exit at
around 45deg to go out the window. The flattened this bit of plate out with a lump hammer and welded it to the top of the cylinder to blank off the
hole where the valve was cut out.
Thats it. Simple and took around 2 hrs to make the second one.
Fired up the first one and crisped the paint nicely. Could feel the heat off it from around 6' away, with it standing outside. So it should be
brilliant in the workshops.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
|
|
|
|
|
Ben_Copeland
|
| posted on 12/12/10 at 07:33 PM |
|
|
As you have 6 you can make me one then 
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 12/12/10 at 08:22 PM |
|
|
I spotted a cylinder that had been fly-tiped today I think I will keep britan tidy tomorrow and get it.
|
|
|
graememk
|
| posted on 12/12/10 at 08:43 PM |
|
|
i have 3m (maybe 4m) of 5" flexi stainless flu if you want it for £50
|
|
|
owelly
|
| posted on 12/12/10 at 11:03 PM |
|
|
Perhaps you'll want to blur the piccies to stop the legal owners of the gas bottles getting upset??
The ones I made ran on used engine oil. They were a bit smokey but once up to temperature, the whole bottle would glow. Of course mine didn't
belong to Calor or anyone like that...... ;-0
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
|
|
|
trextr7monkey
|
| posted on 12/12/10 at 11:21 PM |
|
|
spotted some "professional" jobs on e bay complete with funky black finish which might save problems mentioned by owelly
Pot belly stove, gas bottle burner on eBay (end time 15-Dec-10 12:17:23 GMT)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
|
|
|
hobbsy
|
| posted on 12/12/10 at 11:41 PM |
|
|
Surely someone has paid a deposit at some point on these so they can't get too upset?
I very nearly picked up two extremely mint ones from a reclamation yard at the weekend, that was until the boss turned up and said to the other bloke
that he couldn't sell them to me as they wanted to refill them for heaters.
All they wanted was £2 each and I was faffing around trying to take measurements - doh!
Ended up with a very battered gas bottle (argued they wouldn't refill it) and an R134a refrigerant bottle (with some in).
They should do me for what I want (used oil burner - thread to follow once I've got something to show)
[Edited on 12/12/10 by hobbsy]
|
|
|
hobbsy
|
| posted on 13/12/10 at 10:07 AM |
|
|
Let me know if you find any good source for flue pipe.
One recommendation I've had (but not had chance to pursue) is 4" truck exhaust pipe. Its single wall so I guess you'd use it for
the first part of the flue but not where it passes through walls / ceilings etc (you probably want double wall for that). It should radiate a fair
bit of heat out of the first part of the flue whereas using double wall for the lot would mean the heat just goes up and out.
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 13/12/10 at 10:43 AM |
|
|
Building regs require 50mm clearance between the best-quality double-skinned flue pipe and any combustible material. Ebay-quality double-skinned may
require 300mm clearance.
You may have to have some form of metal exit plate through a flat roof. There's probably something already available for that job.
|
|
|
hobbsy
|
| posted on 13/12/10 at 10:58 AM |
|
|
Yeah that's what I'm trying to say, you can get away with single skin lower down to maximise heat output but you want to swap to double
skin when you pass through something like a roof.
300mm clearance  That's one big hole in the roof.
How good are flexible flues?
When I get around to building mine I'm considering passing the pipe through an (openable) window. I could either do it with a couple of
90degree bends or with a flexi pipe.
|
|
|
flak monkey
|
| posted on 13/12/10 at 06:38 PM |
|
|
The bottles came from an industrial place, they are old forklift ones, same size as a 19kg but have a different valve fitted. The company they came
from stopped trading with their old gas supplier years ago, and these are the bottles that have been sitting in the yard since.
Theres no deposit on the small bottles, but there is on the 47kg ones.
Obviously I can't condone cutting up gas bottles anyway, its dangerous and silly
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 13/12/10 at 07:37 PM |
|
|
bugger some one beat me to mine.
|
|
|
hobbsy
|
| posted on 14/12/10 at 10:46 AM |
|
|
quote:
Obviously I can't condone cutting up gas bottles anyway, its dangerous and silly
If you can remove the valve by underscrewing it (you said this was nigh on impossible?) then fill them with water to displace the gas I can't
see how its dangerous.
If you can't remove the valve however and you're having to drill into it / cut / saw while there is still gas then that's a little
riskier!
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 14/12/10 at 12:20 PM |
|
|
Looks good, nice work.
Not wanting to be the usual bringer of bad tidings and all that crap, but just check things over with your insurance. If the building is yours, then
its not really an issue, but I recently found out that our insurers (Aviva) won't accept ANY form of portable heating in the workshop other than
halogen lamps!! I have now changed insurers, and they have a clause which states that any gas or kerosene space heaters must be guarded for 1m all
around, signed, and made a "fixed item". No other heating other than fixed, is allowed...............Just best to be careful and check
with them if insurance is critical to you, if not then no problem!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
