stevegough
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 10:12 AM |
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Info on securing car to trailer
IVA looms - decided I'm NOT driving it there especially as thanks to Richard Thomas I have a trailer.
I have 4 large heavy - duty ratcheting straps (very long!) - what is the best way to attach the car?
[Edited on 21/11/10 by stevegough]
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 10:26 AM |
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Best bet would be to get hold of some car transporter wheel straps , used with the ratchet straps they will hold the car securely without damage. Cost
about £7.00 each from places like Machine mart
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balidey
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 10:27 AM |
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The best way is with proper wheel straps that have a loop that sits on top of the tyre.
If just using normal ratchets then around the lower wishbones, one strap per corner.
Check the strength rating on the ratchets and make sure there are no weak points, ie tears or fraying
Dutch bears have terrible skin due to their clogged paws
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907
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 11:15 AM |
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Hi.
If you want to use your existing straps then you need a set of short loops.
You can get them with metal D ends or like mine.
(I don't like metal bits near alloys.)
Handy Straps sell them on eBay (NTDWM)
I believe this is the legal way to strap a car on a trailer.
(But maybe not that much overhang.)
HTH
Paul G
Image deleted by owner
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thunderace
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 11:33 AM |
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the car in your pic could easy slide on the wood hope its well straped down.
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Werner Van Loock
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 11:49 AM |
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One advise i can give you is to make sure that the straps can't undo themselves, even if some slack is coming into the picture.
The picture of above is bad example (regarding securing the strap to the trailer), if some slack is experienced the metal hook will undo itself drom
the chassis resulting in no strap at all anymore.
What i mostly do with straps with metal hooks is to use the kooks as a loop around something, so that i don't use the hook to secure the strap
but the strap itself, if you know what i mean. Bit difficult to explain.
Also use strong straps
have a look here, 2 straps and still break
strap break
[Edited on 21/11/10 by Werner Van Loock]
[Edited on 21/11/10 by Werner Van Loock]
http://www.clubstylus.be
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907
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 12:24 PM |
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I have answered the OP and to the best of my knowledge the info is correct.
If you buy a set of 4 car transporter straps you get 4 ratchet straps and 4 loops,
and again, to the best of my knowledge they are used as I have, pulled down till the tyre wall deforms.
There is another type that is like a cradle or net that goes over the top third of the tyre.
I also understand that strapping the chassis down, and not the wheels, is frowned upon as when the trailer
goes over a bump the cars suspension compresses and the straps then can come loose.
Only trying to help.
Cheers
Paul G
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dlatch
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 12:33 PM |
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used to drive a 7.5 tonne recovery lorry delivering hire cars/vans
and doing so many times a day i never had a problem using 4 heavy duty wheel straps
if they are good quality you won't have a problem.
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RazMan
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 12:39 PM |
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I have always used straps wrapped through the rims and secured at the same opposing angle as in 907's pic. This can however mark the rims a
little and those loops look like an excellent alternative.
It is worth mentioning that securing the car in this way allows the suspension to work effectively and it can make towing a more pleasant experience -
holding it down by the chassis will make things very 'stiff' and the straps will loosen quite easily.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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T66
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 01:24 PM |
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If your not going to buy the proper over the wheel type of traps,
Secure each wheel by hooking the strap behind the wheel rim, pull up the slack then tighten till its well tied down. The further behind the wheel the
better, once tight it will never come off.
Another point worthy of note is , if you do brake you dont want the trailered car coming forward, so for belt and braces I used to fasten the tail of
the trailed car down to the rear of the trailer, so it couldnt roll forward either.
Handbrake on, steering lock on, and in gear.
Give it a few miles, not sure how far your going, stop and check your straps.
Take your time & Good luck
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phelpsa
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 02:38 PM |
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This isn't somewhere to cut corners really, car comes off trailer on the motorway and lives are at stake! £50 will get you a proper set of
'recovery straps' like these:
Best £50 we've spent!
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stevegough
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 04:42 PM |
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Lots of knowledgeable replies - I really appreciate you taking the time to write and upload the pics - thanks guys - I knew you had to tie the wheels
down, but couldn't work out how to do it with the simple straight straps I've got.
Cheers, Steve.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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StrikerChris
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 05:23 PM |
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I've always just stuck the strap through the wheels and pulled the car back at the back,and forward at the front.had a bump with 2.5 ton of
Landrover on the trailer and it never moved.but as said wheel straps are the best,only need a short sling to thread your existing straps through to
do the job properly.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 08:21 PM |
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I used to race a landrover, the suspension had a lot of give which made towing when strapped by the wheels caused the trailer to buck a bit, we used
to strap these cars down hard, shove a spare wheel under the cars chassis and pull down upon this to lock the load. As above do not strap to the cars
chassis unless the car is pulled down very hard or the suspension will bounce the straps off.
When I tow my little car I have chains that I hook on to the wishbones at the outside edge and winch the car forward on its front towing eye then
strap the front wishbones. The car can still bounce a little without coming loose as no movement on the ends of the wishbones.
Personally I have always found when on the trailer the car pointing forwards gives better results, you just have to play around with nose weights on
the hitch and when you have a good stable setup always load in the same fashion, this is where chains are good as you use set lengths.
Also keep everything as low as possible, I have may spare set of wheels hung under the bed, no need to faff about when loading but also tows better so
double bonus.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 21/11/10 by mark chandler]
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stevegough
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 09:37 PM |
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Update: just bought 4 of these from an ebay supplier on your (collective) advice.
Will help with securing my pride and joy, will post piccies when I've loaded it up.....
Thanks everybody!Strap for Car Transporter or Recovery Wheel strap on eBay (end time 28-Nov-10 17:27:15 GMT)
[Edited on 21/11/10 by stevegough]
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 21/11/10 at 09:49 PM |
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Well I have successfully moved my car about 10-15 times securing normal straps to the chassis/centre prop mount.
Two forward, two back, for a bit extra I put the handbrake on, in gear in case something snapped - never moved an inch.
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stevegough
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| posted on 22/11/10 at 07:15 PM |
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Pictured car on trailer today - chocs in position, just waiting for straps to arrive.
 
Description
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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