aerosam
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 03:41 PM |
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How do you remove a snapped wheel bolt?
The locking wheel bolts were rusted beyond saving on my project BMW. The only way to get the wheels off (the tyres all need changing) is to drill out
the bolt heads.
I've drilled out the first of them, and got the wheel off successfully, however there is now so little of the locking wheel bolt left I have no
idea how to get it out without damaging the threads.
Help!
 
Rescued attachment stud.jpg
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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blakep82
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 03:46 PM |
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heat it with a blow torch, or boiling water right out the kettle, hit it square on with a suitably large hammer, soak it in penetrating oil, then try
one of those stud extractor things where you screw it in anticlockwise until it lock and hopefully starts to turn the bolt?
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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bilbo
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 03:48 PM |
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You could also try welding a nut onto it. This has the added advantage of heating it all up as well.
---------------------------------------
Build Diary: http://bills-locost.blogspot.com/
Web Site: http://locost.atspace.com
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dewbries
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 03:49 PM |
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You can get a tap with a reversed, left hand thread. Drill a hole down what is left of the bolt screw in the tap, which is tapered, and it will
tighten up and then hopefully turn the bolt out. Heat and plenty of oil on the bolt thread first though. Hope that helps.
Second build. Now refining and changing drive train
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flak monkey
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 03:49 PM |
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Take the disc off, then you will have about 10mm of bolt to get hold of.
Soak in pentrating oil for about a week (regular applications) then weld a nut onto the end and unscrew it.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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BenTyreman
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 03:49 PM |
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There seems to be enough sticking out to weld a bolt on to the stub.
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aerosam
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 03:55 PM |
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There's really only about 1mm of real metal sticking out. The drill removed most of the real meat from the middle, although i only just broke
through at the top of the thread.
If it comes down to it i'll just have to remove the brake disc , which will expose more of the thread - as the bolt screws into the hub.
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 04:14 PM |
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I drilled 2 small holes down the stud quite close to each other then opened it up into one hole with care full 'milldrilling' and then
just inserted a flat head blade on a impact driver.
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irvined
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 04:42 PM |
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Weld a nut on, you can plug/fill weld into the center of the nut, it doesnt matter if its messy, the heat will help loosen things off, and it will be
relatively strong.
Did this recently with a wheel nut and it worked a treat.
http://irvined.blogspot.com
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 04:42 PM |
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do what the monkey says...job done
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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COREdevelopments
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 05:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by irvined
Weld a nut on, you can plug/fill weld into the center of the nut, it doesnt matter if its messy, the heat will help loosen things off, and it will be
relatively strong.
Did this recently with a wheel nut and it worked a treat.
Agree i had to do the same this week to a car. all 4 bolts sheared off!! they were all snapped flush to the hub face. Welded the centre of the bolt
then put a large nut on top then filled it up with weld.
Rob
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Danozeman
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 05:48 PM |
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Weld a nut on has to be the only way. If its tight enought o sheer it will need heat.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 05:49 PM |
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Could have had the disc whipped off by the time you posted on here! 
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snapper
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 05:52 PM |
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Caliper off, disc off, press or bash stud out.
Thats if its Ford Sierra hubs
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Macbeast
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 06:44 PM |
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He did say "on my project BMW "
And I think it's bolt, not stud.
[Edited on 4/6/09 by Macbeast]
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aerosam
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 07:19 PM |
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yep, BMW E34 5 series, bolts. The internal spline drive was rusted so the key was just spinning in the end of the bolt so I had to drill through it to
get the wheel off.
Lots of good ideas here, thanks!
I'll try welding a nut on first (finally something my little gasless MIG can do!) and if that fails i'll remove the caliper and disc and
go from there.
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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BenB
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| posted on 4/6/09 at 07:56 PM |
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Yup. Weld a nut on it. Always works for me!!
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WestfieldSEI
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| posted on 14/6/09 at 07:33 AM |
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Weld something on to the end of the stud. The intense heat of tehe welding exercise will help break the he corrosion that is holding it tight and you
also have something to grip.
Always let the the stud cool back to ambient temperature on its own before attempting to release it. If you try to turn it while it is still hot you
have more chance of snapping it off again, similarly, if you force cool it with water, you are annealing (softening) the steel.
HTH
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