I'm going to be putting in brake lines soon. Now would it be better to rivet the litle plastic pclips down, use rivnuts or self tappers.

I wonder if rivnuts are just a little overkill? I don't like self tappers much, always feels a bit like a bodge between riveting and rivnuts. Drilling and tapping could be another idea, but with the thinkess of the tubes, seems pretty pointless.

Rivet, Rivet!!

You can always drill them out if it was really nessesary, but it's unliikely. Rivnuts are overkill , self tappers are horrid

As ReMan says.

Rivnuts are better if you are going to move the cables frequently, but they make MUCH bigger holes in your chassis

Rivet them. How often are you going to remove the p-clips? Not worth it and bigger holes means a weaker chassis.....

Rivnuts - you'll only ever need to rivnut once and you can change them as many times as you like. When you drill rivets out, you'll end up with lits bits of leftover rivet rattling atound the chassis. It's not a big deal, but you'll know it's there!

You won't hear rivet remnants rattling around in a seven, believe me!

Use proper push in plastic brake pipe clips not P clips

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=S/CB10316

Like these
Rescued attachment Part Numbers.jpg

I must admit I don't like drilling large holes in the chassis.

I used a 3.2 drill and tapped M4

Paul G

why would you want the p clip to be removable holding you're brake lines in place? Rivet them in place you will never want to move it once fitted so make it permanant.

quote:

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Originally posted by stuart_g
why would you want the p clip to be removable holding you're brake lines in place? Rivet them in place you will never want to move it once fitted so make it permanant.

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I grabbed a big handfull of various plastic pipe clips from a stand at Stoneligh, only came to a few quid and they have several advantages:

1) Small hole required in chassis
2) No bi-metalic corrosion issues
3) Pipe can be removed and replaced without removing clip or drilling out rivets.

quote
I must admit I don't like drilling large holes in the chassis.

I used a 3.2 drill and tapped M4

I agree, tap a thread using M3 or M4. You may think that you will never need to re-route or remove the brake pipes but believe me, it does happen and has to me. Normally brake lines are fitted before panelling when you have full access for a drill. It's a different story once the panels are in place but generally there is room for a screwdriver or Allen key to remove the screws holding the clips. I try to make everything removable and accessible for service. A bit more trouble at the time but in the end well worth it.

John

How strong is a tapped hole in 1.6mm steel? (question for the experts)
I'd have thought they'd have stripped really easily.

I have rivetted on P clips using aluminium headed rivets and the heads have come off some after a period of time.

The hammer in plastic clips are OK but again have had problems with them braking.

Rivnuts are the most secure method but costs more, is more complicated and is heavier.

I rivet mine now with good quality rivets.

One thing I was thinking of, is like the new Haynes manual, rivet along a strip of steel then rivnut and screw the strip in place. I could use say 150-200mm intervals for P clips then rivnuts at say 300 mm appart as long as the strip ended up ridged enough.

OMG !!!

Dear Abby

I just ordered rivets to fix floor to chassis etc, but someone here mentioned dissimilar metal corrosion.

I ordered aluminium rivets - should I have ordered steel ? But the floor is aluminium so is there a right answer ?

Worried dot com


Edited 08.34

My Guru says ally rivets ok - phew

[Edited on 16/5/07 by Macbeast]

Dip your rivet in a drop of Sikaflex or heavy paint. Push in hole and pop it off........no issues. I drilled and tapped 8mm square ally rod spacers. Rivetted them in with Sikaflex again as a barrier, then fixed the P clips with 4 mm set screws.......time consuming but what`s the rush?

Alex

Alex