Had to resort to some copper plumbing pieces in my new rad setup to get round the rack.

Have never done any plumbing before so maybe that explains why it leaks!

Any tips for plumbing soldering. I know that York fittings are the easy option so I'm obviously doing something retarded to have it leaking!

I'm using a Taymar blow lamp with a butane/propane mix. Is this too hot so I've given the joint too much heat?

Or maybe too little?

About how much time should I spent heating the joint to know it's melted fully?


Sorry for all the questions!

Thanks,
James

EDIT: I've got to replace a bathroom soon.... so any skills learnt here will come in very handy!



[Edited on 2/4/07 by James]

maybe to much heat

were the joints nice and clean first, did you use flux ?

Clean the end of the pipe and the inside of the joint with wire wool, shiny shiny. Flux the end of the pipe and push it in to the stop then warm the joint and the pipe together till a ring of silver appears all round. Now stop.

Balls! You have to use flux with York do you? Hah! Didn't think of that!

If I'd thought about it I'd have assumed it was used just for non-York fittings where you have to apply the solder yourself.

Thanks!!!

James


P.S. As well as fixing the car I may not flood the kitchen from the bathroom above now!

I always apply a little electrical solder to the joint to help things along. Beware of using too much heat or the solder just runs out of the joint - just enough is just right

Yep clean up and a little flux.

Generally I kept warming mine until you get a nice ring of solder forming arround the lip of the joint.

Regards

Agriv8

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I always apply a little electrical solder to the joint

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Ooooh that probably explains why I'm going senile too early

quote:

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Originally posted by JonBowden

quote:

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I always apply a little electrical solder to the joint

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Remember that you should NEVER do this on domestic water pipes since electrical solder contains lead - you should use lead free solder instead

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As said before, pipes must be well shiny. Flux the joint. I always heat the pipe, you will see the heat ring travel down the pipe and into the joint, once soldered the solder ring will be available. At this pint i remove the heat and apply a little more plumbing solder for good measure (end dipped in flux first).

You will be amazed how easy it is when you get the hang of it.

If doing a number of joins close together assemble them up first.

Your failed joints will easily come apart with more heat. I find plumbing to be a very satisfying job. I bought the good quality torch, pipe cutters, solder, flux etc and it makes it all a whole load easier.

Few tips- only apply flux to where you want the solder to go- if you liberally apply it all over the tube the solder will be more likely to run.

Also, apply the heat until you begin to see a very little silver solder peaking out of the joint. When you take off the heat the residual heat in the joint will allow it to wick a bit more making perfect joints (or that's the plan anyway)....

Rescued attachment bottomhose1 vsml.jpg

Pretty much like that, yeah!

Thanks for the tips everyone.

Cheers,
James

quote:

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Remember that you should NEVER do this on domestic water pipes since electrical solder contains lead - you should use lead free solder instead

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James, whatever you do, do not have your soft soldered pipework powder coated. Powder coating temperatures will melt the solder and the assembly will fall to pieces.

John