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Tapping ali bar for rose joints
Avoneer - 11/2/06 at 06:10 PM

Can I tap a solid 20mm ali bar so that an M12 rose joint can bolt on one end?

It's won't be in a very stressed application as will just be one end of the rotating bar that my top paddle shift rocker is attached to.

Pat...


Hellfire - 11/2/06 at 06:36 PM

Yes.


Jon Ison - 11/2/06 at 06:48 PM

Cant see any reason why not in that application.


flak monkey - 11/2/06 at 06:50 PM

Yep, you need to drill a 10.2mm hole (assuming its M12x1.75 coarse, or 10.75mm if its M12x1.25 fine.

David

PS the quick way to get an approximate tapping drill size for any metric ISO thread is to subtract the pitch from the OD of the thread.


Avoneer - 11/2/06 at 08:51 PM

Will I get away with 10mm ?

Pat...


diyer - 11/2/06 at 09:06 PM

yes should do, as its aluminium
Simon


Mark Allanson - 11/2/06 at 10:21 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Will I get away with 10mm ?

Pat...


If you want it to cut 10.2mm, sharpen one of the lands to 5.1mm (leave the other alone)


Avoneer - 12/2/06 at 01:40 AM

Any ideas how I could drill a hole into the centre of it to tap without a lathe?

Pat...


Jon Ison - 12/2/06 at 09:30 AM

I assume you mean on edge ?


Avoneer - 12/2/06 at 10:08 AM

Down the centre of the tube.

Usually done with the ali bar in lathe chuck and drill bit in stock end.

Pat...


Peteff - 12/2/06 at 10:46 AM

I tapped one to take a 12mm bolt for a spindle on the grandson's pushchair and it's lasted 2 years so far. It was only an insert and I drilled it in the pillar drill. M12 sounds chunky for a gearshift application.


Syd Bridge - 12/2/06 at 03:49 PM

A twisted flute tap helps a lot. And if you haven't got a 10.2 mm drill, go a little bigger, as ali tends to 'flow' or 'shape' as the tap goes in.

Use lots of wd40 to lube as well.

Syd.


Avoneer - 12/2/06 at 05:22 PM

Cheers guys.

Managed to do it.

Found a piece of 24mm ali tube with a 10mm hole already through it.

Tapped it with cutting compound (smelly green sh*t) and it all worked out lovely in the end.

Cheers,

Pat... Rescued attachment DSCF0022.JPG
Rescued attachment DSCF0022.JPG


NS Dev - 12/2/06 at 09:03 PM

Bobs your uncle, nice job. Some nice welds on that chassis too (shame about the rust!) did you do it?


johnjulie - 12/2/06 at 10:15 PM

Have you got access to a good bench drill?
Hold the bar in a drill vice, and use a square to get it vertical. Use a small 1/8" or similar metric drill to start with, less chance of wandering off centre. Then build up to the size you need. Carefully!!
Ideally you need a lathe, no one you know got one? Check for a model engineering club near you.
Cheers John


johnjulie - 12/2/06 at 10:17 PM

Sorry It was a bit late, hadn't got to page 2. Wot a plonker!!!!
Cheers John


Avoneer - 12/2/06 at 10:26 PM

No probs.

Found a bar (part of the engine mounts) but this can be replaed later.

Chassis was welded up by my friend in exchange for an LSD - I can only tack!

Rust should be gone by next week and the whole lot nice and shiny black.

Pat...


Avoneer - 12/2/06 at 11:03 PM

No probs.

Found a bar (part of the engine mounts) but this can be replaed later.

Chassis was welded up by my friend in exchange for an LSD - I can only tack!

Rust should be gone by next week and the whole lot nice and shiny black.

Pat...