This thing is available to me in the local supermarket for only 40€, something like 25£.
Will it be the right weapon to cut the chassis tubes?
The possibility to tilt in 2 planes for compound angles and the laser pointer for lenght control inspire me.
It seems to be designed for wood but probably possible to place a grinder or steel saw disc.
5000 rpm and 1200 W don't say anithing to me, is it sound to you?

[Edited on 11/7/05 by Aloupol]

[Edited on 11/7/05 by Aloupol]
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it is sound!

but offcourse only if you can find the disks?

how much should one unit costs in euro's

and where do they sell it?
Lidl?Media Markt?Aldi??

want one to!

Tks

does remind me..only one important thing!
is the rpm adjustable?? because..an iron saw blade doesn't run at 5000rpm i guess... the smaller de diameter the more luck you can have..

altough if you use an angle grinder blade it doesn't matter!



[Edited on 11/7/05 by tks]

I'm afraid the rpm is not adjustable. I will ask tomorow to the bloke at the factory who orders all the cutting tools. He knows everything about the cut speeds, teeth shape, blade supliers etc.
If absolutely necessary I think it's possible to change the motor by the one from another tool.
I saw this at the Aldi in Boncelles near Liège, there are only a few left and nothing in the other Aldi shops.

if you replace the blade with a grinder disc, the rpm doesnt matter. Only relevant if it is a toothed saw blade. 1200w sounds ok for the task.

I used a hacksaw, I think it is very character building and besides it is a lot cheaper than joining some trendy gym and you get the same workout.
Having thought about this some more the downside is there are no 'fit' birds prancing around in Lycra in my workshop!
- Alan

I used a similar GMC saw to cut my chassis just replaced the blade with and abrasive cutting disc . You will find hoever that as the disc wears down packing under the steel to be cut will be necessary . Oh and you must wear eye and ear protection as it is noisy and messy but acurate cuts are easy .
Best wishes
Iain

Well, pros and cons..
My collegue says it will do a good job with a thick grinder disc. Much beter result with a small teeth blade and reduced rpm.
If there is no speed control I will connect an iron in serial to reduce the watts

Iron in series not good for reducing watts cos they switch on & off to control temp.
Use a kettle. When it boils stop cutting, have a brew & refil with cold water...
cheers
Bob

wy no make it rpm adjustable?

solid state relais
microcontroller..

and you can go through the rpm's!

Tks

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Originally posted by JoelP
if you replace the blade with a grinder disc, the rpm doesnt matter. Only relevant if it is a toothed saw blade. 1200w sounds ok for the task.

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Much safer to use the right kit in the first place...or get out that trusty hacksaw......cutting discs exploding aint much fun......

My concern with using a grinding disc is the mess and the fire hazard - sparks goes everywhere, and when they stop twinkling yellow they're filthy, gritty bits of burnt metal that get everywhere. Grinding's noisy, too.

Get the best hacksaw frame you can afford, a pack of good-quality bi-metal blades, and do it by hand. It really isn't hard, and doesn't take much longer than doing it with a power tool.

Keeps you fit, too!

David

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Much safer to use the right kit in the first place

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I'm another advocate of the decent hacksaw approach. It doesn't take long to learn how to cut to a line and the money you save can be better spent on something you can't do yourself.

Mick

I noticed that it's more easy and more clean to cut tubes with a simple hacksaw than with an angle grinder whitch produces a lot of sparks, heat, noise and danger.

The only added value of this tool is the jig system with angle index and laser pointer but I don't think it's that accurate on a 40€ thing..

The best way remains to mark and cut by hand with hacksaw or, if there are much compound angles, to build a simple jig with angle index in 2 planes and a slider for the saw blade. Will think a bit about that one of these nights.

Anyway my first cut wil occur in at least 6 or 8 months, no pressure then.

i used a bandsaw from machine mart. Not too expensive, very quite and the teeth last for ages cos theres so many of them! In fact, it snapped before it went blunt

Only problem is trying to keep the blade square, quite bad for that in fact.

I use the same Joel, and yup, they do seem very adept at cutting on the skew, but then with patience in the setting up (shimming the guide roll holders on mine) they are "reasonably" accurate, with the benefits of quietness and cleanness!

nice to know its not just me! I tried adjusting it once, but its minute adjustments to change the angle quite a lot. I figued it doesnt really matter on my first build, as its crap anyway, but for my next chassis i will cut them all by hand, and fettle it to perfection.

sorry Joel but that is complete boll0cks!

A grinding disc is designed to run at a very critical speed. (more so than a toothed blade!) Too slow and it will glaze up and overheat and not cut, too fast and it will explode and do the user some serious damage.

If you can fit a 9" (230mm) cutting disc then you should be ok with that saw though. Ideally should be nearer 6000rpm but 5000 should be ok if you are only cutting thin box sections etc.
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Look it seems to me that all the worrry about ideal speed for cutting with a disc my be theeroecticlly true but in actuality it is irrelevent i KNOW FROM the experiance of ACTUALLY Using a drop saw with a cutting disc that it works fine . I also know that if you slow the saw down by any method as sugested is sure to reduce the tourque available for the disc to cut and cause less than optimum cooling for the motor . I cut All of the steel for my chassis and wore out two cutting discs in the process . The real trick is to avoid using to much preasure as you cut and then you will get the acuracy that you need for this project . My GMC saw cost 65 AUD it still works fine .
I will conceed that it is noisy and dirty but you can work around that . Hack saw is fine but there are a lot of cuts to be made and if you want every session in the shed to be a work out fine cut the lot with a saw but I have been at the building game for 18 months now and my progress would be much less if I had gone the manual route.There are enough tasks with building one of these cars with out deliberately trying to make it harder

This is one area where you can forget the theory and go with what is proven to work . Any way I have seen cheap METAL cut of saws in my local BUNNINGS hard ware store here in Oz and I am sure that sores in your part of the world would not be that much different. Remember although you may give a wood saw a canning doing this that you really only need it to last untill you have finished your build not for years of doing this sort of thing in an industrial situation.
Best wishes
Iain

I used a cheap chop saw I bought n the states to cut all my metal. Had no probs at all. The only pain was that being an American make, the discs were a slightly different size, and I had to get new ones from the US. Never had one shatter, but always used goggles in case.

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Look it seems to me that all the worrry about ideal speed for cutting with a disc my be theeroecticlly true but in actuality it is irrelevent i KNOW FROM the experiance of ACTUALLY Using a drop saw with a cutting disc that it works fine

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