Owing to the cancellation of RAF Feltwell Car/Bike/Air show due to 'World Events", today I have time on my hands.
I thought I'd spend my day doing a "scrapheap challenge" and see if I can come up with a spot on tool
for a money input of zero.
So far the cars tracking has only been set by my "engineering eye."
( Just like the TV program items have been hidden for me to conveniently find. 
)
Watch this space
Paul G
I found a pair of lazer pointers (strangely named "Cat Toy" from Poundland to be excellent for DIY tracking gauges. But, unless you have a
pair hidden in the back of a scrap Luton van in your 'scrapyard', you'd have to spend £2 to buy some.
I have a laser leveling tool I bought about 12 years ago from Aldi. Basically its a level with a laser as part of it that shoots a beam level with the bottom of the level. I hold it across the front and rear parts of the front wheel and aim it at a cardboard box set at the outside of the rear wheel. I check both sides and measure how far out from the outer edge of the rear tyres the laser light is. Since front and rear wheels outer edges are the same its a simple?, well it used to be simple, bit of maths to work out the degrees of toe in - or out you want. It goes without saying you don't move the car while doing it. At the moment mine is set at 0deg as that was the simplest maths ;-)
The simplest way, and some argue (my tuner for one) is the most accurate is to use two calibrated poles (front and back) + two lengths of fishing
line + weights (to tension lines). You set up a rectangle surrounding the car (I use two pairs of axel stands to support the poles at the half way
point on the wheels) and you them measure using a steel ruler from the fishing line to the same two points on the rims all round. This requires a
piece of paper and a pencil to work out your tracking precisely. No electronics no batteries no expensive equipment and it is just as fast- guaranteed
by me, I do all my cars this way!
P.S. I can give you more details on how to make the calibrated poles or you could use your ingenuity. I used a couple of alloy, thick walled pipe,
with hacksaw groves cut to locate the fishing line. I one paid a lot of money to have this done to my car and when I saw how accurate and simple the
technique was I obviously replicated it in my own garage. The tuner told me he used the technique on f1 cars in the past (not that long ago).
Nope. No lasers in the garage, but I do have an Aldi digi calliper and some off cuts of box.
You'll have to add both pics together but I'm sure you get the idea.
Measure front of rim. Measure the rear. The difference being the toe in, of out as the case may be.
Paul G
Description
Description
I recently wrote a program to calculate the toe and thrust with options to save and load results. Although it assumes the measure are from using the
"string line method" it maybe of use. I have not uploaded to a software site as yet, so can't show a link to it, but let me know if
you would like to try it and I will email it to you or anyone else who's interested.
Wheel Alignment app
Well so much for my "engineering eye".
It was 6mm of toe out.
Now 1.5mm of toe in.
Must go for a test run later.
Paul G
quote:
Originally posted by Smoking Frog
I recently wrote a program to calculate the toe and thrust with options to save and load results. Although it assumes the measure are from using the "string line method" it maybe of use. I have not uploaded to a software site as yet, so can't show a link to it, but let me know if you would like to try it and I will email it to you or anyone else who's interested.
Wheel Alignment app
Please can you also send me a copy.
Top work.
PM sent with e mail.
Thanks in advance.
Matty
hi can I get a copy too, will pm my email, thanks
Smoking Frog, Is there a chance that I can have a copy too?
Regards, John
quote:
Originally posted by John G
Smoking Frog, Is there a chance that I can have a copy too?
Regards, John
Well, I made the a similar tracking tool to Paul, and although my engineering skills are not a match to his
my eyesight is way better, as I was only 1.54 mm off 0% tracking, so I left it as is
Fishing line for toe, iPad for camber and caster using a spirit level app.
Then had my car validated on a huntsman laser alignment tool.
My results were all within 0.1 degree so will never bother paying for alignment again.
One thing that does strike me is that some set up using millimetres while others prefer degrees.
I'm in the millimetre camp as I find it easy to visualise.
I have more of a problem picturing one degree than I do 6mm.
As already pointed out, must be failing eyesight & old age. 
Paul G
I mix it up, mm for toe, degrees for camber as that's what the spirit level calls out 
Hard part is finding a horizontal floor
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I mix it up, mm for toe, degrees for camber as that's what the spirit level calls out
Hard part is finding a horizontal floor