A collection of 'How to's' .....
written by 2cv

and kindly collated in .pdf format by TheGeko
The revised version is available here linkydink (about 3.8M PDF file).



[Edited on 4-11-10 by Fozzie]

Nice one Fozz and 2cv.
Any chance of tutorial on how to whittle a new Missus from 24 fosters tins and a couple of melons.
Cheers,
Bob

Nice one. I thought it was a tutorial on how to build 2CV parts at first

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Originally posted by mistergrumpy
Nice one. I thought it was a tutorial on how to build 2CV parts at first

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can I ask a bit of a muppet question. When shaping the metal, is the metal for the bonnet bulge say draw from the sides of the panel of metal being worked upon, it is it simply being thinned/stretched at the point of work?

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Originally posted by aka Keith
can I ask a bit of a muppet question. When shaping the metal, is the metal for the bonnet bulge say draw from the sides of the panel of metal being worked upon, it is it simply being thinned/stretched at the point of work?

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Ally indicators attempt 1 to 2

quote: First of all may I congratulate 2cv for raising an interest in metalshaping. Well done.

Thank you Paul, that's very kind of you. I just wondered if you annealed the aluminium before you formed it. Annealing would certainly make the aluminium more ductile (if I remember my metallurgy I think that's the right term) and more of it would then take part in the stretching rather than the majority being at the point of hammer contact.

Keith I think Paul is right. The majority of stretching must be at the point of work but areas outside that must also stretch as well. Ron Fournier covers blocking very well in one of his videos and he marks the areas to strike with felt tip pen lines to indicate where to strike. By varying the weight and frequency of hammer blows from one area to another you can put more depth into one part than the other so that you can achieve for instance a teardrop shape.

[Edited on 7/11/10 by 2cv]

Edge Wiring

This is sometimes used around the edges of mudguards for stiffening or cockpit sides of vintage cars and other components for finishing of the edge.

Here are a few pictures showing a scuttle fairing being made and this has a wired front edge. The desired shape is cut out from 1.2mm thick non-annealed pure aluminium and a 1 inch wide line drawn around the circular edge. This is there to define the limit of hammering because we do not want to stretch the edges of the work.
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The flat sheet is placed on the shot bag and shape put in using both a slapper and bossing mallet. As the shape develops, crinkles form around the edge in the "No hit" area. These can be shrunk out using the wooden slapper with the aluminium sitting on a steel surface, in this case a piece of railway line.

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It's important to check the shape by reference to a flat surface frequently to prevent distortion taking over.
Alternately put more shape in and remove the crinkles. It is then planished using a planishing hammer and steel slapper.

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A 20mm wide flange is then formed using the glaziers pliers.
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[Edited on 6/11/10 by 2cv]

I'm using 3mm galvanised steel wire so we need to form a 9mm wide flange and trim back the mounting flange by that amount. The flange is easily formed using the glaziers pliers up to a right angle. Place the wire right in the corner formed by the flange and the base and trap the wire by hammering the aluminium down against it.
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At this stage it doesn't look too tidy but don't despair. With the aid of a door skinning tool the aluminium can be neatly rolled around the wire.


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907 said: I did succeed in the end by pressing a little, then hammering to the rough shape of the former, then pressing a bit more. Repeated this a couple more times and got there in the end.

Paul, do you have any pictures of the finished pressings?

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Originally posted by 2cv
907 said: I did succeed in the end by pressing a little, then hammering to the rough shape of the former, then pressing a bit more. Repeated this a couple more times and got there in the end.

Paul, do you have any pictures of the finished pressings?

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ally winkers final stage

Paul, that is superb work; I take my hat off to you. Great stuff!

There's an updated (version 3) PDF file now at this link(5.3m PDF) which includes the edge wiring details form above and the recent threads on both clamshell and cycle guards.

Thanks again to John [2cv] for his ongoing and useful contributions to LocostBuilders.

Dominic

Thank you Dominic great piece of work and thank you for your encouraging words.

Bearing in mind the hoops that you are having to jump through to get your car built and on the road, it would be very nice if you opened a build thread particularly showing pictures of your progress on the nosecone buck and the metal shaping.

Take care, best wishes

John

[Edited on 17/3/11 by 2cv]

Speechless, absolutely speechless - In awe of two true craftsmen.

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Originally posted by 2cv
Thank you Dominic great piece of work and thank you for your encouraging words.

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Bearing in mind the hoops that you are having to jump through to get your car built and on the road, it would be very nice if you opened a build thread particularly showing pictures of your progress on the nosecone buck and the metal shaping.[Edited on 17/3/11 by 2cv]

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Tripped across some nice amateur aluminium forming online and thought it may be of interest here. There is (apparently) a thriving community building "mock" F16 cockpits for slight simulator play. This guy has done some very nice self taught aluminium panel work. The link is to page 19 of his build thread which has a step by step example but it's well worth trawling through the whole thread for lots of interesting stuff.

Please note: I've just upgraded to Firefox 4.0 and it crashes as soon as I open the above link. No apparent problems with earlier versions or IE. It's probably one of my plugins but it's a little late in the evening to work my way through turning them off one at a time to see which is the problem.

Dominic