Long ramps
907 - 5/9/10 at 01:53 PM
Hi All,
I need to get a car up off the floor in the garage so I can work under it so I've been looking for a way of doing this Locost style.
I already have folded ramps that I use with my trailer so today I've made up some frames that will go on one end.
A jack in the middle then allows axle stands to be used the other end.
Since the 25mm box was free due to a special brown coating that apparently people are reluctant to pay for the grand total so far is £0.
Makes a nice change to make something for myself. 
Suppose I'd better paint them now. 
Cheers
Paul G
long ramps
rusty nuts - 5/9/10 at 03:52 PM
Not good enough , they should be stainless. Mel
907 - 5/9/10 at 04:08 PM
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Not good enough , they should be stainless. Mel
But that would clash with the MX5 that's going on them.
Paul G
Fred W B - 5/9/10 at 05:14 PM
A mate and I have been talking about making a device with pivoting frames supporting a flat top something like the lifting work benches used to
service motorcycles. It would bolt to the floor and be pulled up with a winch to easily lift a light flat bottom car under the chassis.
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 5/9/10 by Fred W B]
matt_claydon - 5/9/10 at 05:43 PM
Put the pivot in the middle (see saw) and you can do away with the jack - just drive heavy-end on first until it's just on tipping point and put
a stand under each end.
907 - 5/9/10 at 06:43 PM
quote:
Originally posted by matt_claydon
Put the pivot in the middle (see saw) and you can do away with the jack - just drive heavy-end on first until it's just on tipping point and put
a stand under each end.
I'd worked out that the ramps would have to be much longer for that design.
The second axle/wheels must be on the ramps before the first axle/wheels pass the pivot point
or the ramps tip and hit the sills/body/exhaust.
Some sort of brace or locking pin would work though.
A steep angled ramp (always makes me nervous) is difficult to get the car on if it's a non-runner,
and most of the cars I work on are.
Cheers
Paul G
dan8400 - 5/9/10 at 07:24 PM
You often see those ramps at car dealerships with cars on display. I thought they looked useful. See-saw action with legs (similar to as mentioned
above)
Dan
[Edited on 5/9/10 by dan8400]
ken555 - 5/9/10 at 09:16 PM
Dealer ones are around £950 !
Company here
Demo Video
[Edited on 5-9-10 by ken555]
907 - 6/9/10 at 06:22 AM
The trouble is with the dealer type is where do you store them when not in use.
Cheers
Paul G
scudderfish - 6/9/10 at 08:11 AM
quote:
Originally posted by 907
quote:
Originally posted by matt_claydon
Put the pivot in the middle (see saw) and you can do away with the jack - just drive heavy-end on first until it's just on tipping point and put
a stand under each end.
I'd worked out that the ramps would have to be much longer for that design.
The second axle/wheels must be on the ramps before the first axle/wheels pass the pivot point
or the ramps tip and hit the sills/body/exhaust.
Some sort of brace or locking pin would work though.
A steep angled ramp (always makes me nervous) is difficult to get the car on if it's a non-runner,
and most of the cars I work on are.
Cheers
Paul G
Actually, the rear wheels need to be on before the centre of gravity of the car passes the pivot point, so they don't need to be 2x the length of
the car.
ken555 - 6/9/10 at 08:55 AM
quote:
Originally posted by 907
The trouble is with the dealer type is where do you store them when not in use.
Just store the car on it ?
quote:
Originally posted by scudderfishActually, the rear wheels need to be on before the centre of gravity of the car passes the pivot point,
so they don't need to be 2x the length of the car.
I wonder with a light, mid engined car, (you would have to reverse on) how far back the CoG would be.
907 - 7/9/10 at 06:19 AM
quote:
Originally posted by ken555
quote:
Originally posted by 907
The trouble is with the dealer type is where do you store them when not in use.
Just store the car on it ?
quote:
Originally posted by scudderfishActually, the rear wheels need to be on before the centre of gravity of the car passes the pivot point,
so they don't need to be 2x the length of the car.
I wonder with a light, mid engined car, (you would have to reverse on) how far back the CoG would be.
You would still need ramps 1.5 times the wheelbase.
You need to get the second pair of wheels on before the first pair pass the pivot point.
The C of G of the whole car is only applicable once all four wheels are on.
(My trailer ramps are 2.5m long, the wheelbase of my Locost.)
Paul G
Angel Acevedo - 8/9/10 at 06:06 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 907
quote:
Originally posted by ken555
quote:
Originally posted by 907
The trouble is with the dealer type is where do you store them when not in use.
Just store the car on it ?
quote:
Originally posted by scudderfishActually, the rear wheels need to be on before the centre of gravity of the car passes the pivot point,
so they don't need to be 2x the length of the car.
I wonder with a light, mid engined car, (you would have to reverse on) how far back the CoG would be.
You would still need ramps 1.5 times the wheelbase.
You need to get the second pair of wheels on before the first pair pass the pivot point.
The C of G of the whole car is only applicable once all four wheels are on.
(My trailer ramps are 2.5m long, the wheelbase of my Locost.)
Paul G
I think that with a little more than the wheelbase would suffice.
Drive onto ramps.
Jack other end.
Put towers under the wheels on the lifted end.
PRESTO...
(Easier said than done I know, but I think the idea is sound)
