What about this then? looking to make this from 2.5 or 3 mm mild steel strip, 40 or 50 mm wide.

Good enough or back to drawing board?

VVVV this is based on the design used in Rons' book but with an additional diagonal (not sure yet how I am gonna weld that).

[Edited on 24/3/09 by 02GF74]
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I'm no expert, but the metal looks a bit thin

I wouldnt be confident of using strip steel at all myself - it looks like fore / aft movement might twist that pretty quickly. Better to use tubular or box section imho.

quote:

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Originally posted by Humbug
I'm no expert, but the metal looks a bit thin

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quote:

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Originally posted by Humbug
I'm no expert, but the metal looks a bit thin

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why not just make it from box section with the end plates weld on??

I would remove the 'diagonal' and instead box it on one side or fit the same shape but half way between front and back.

When cut through it would have an I section - if you see what I mean.

Although this is what I did for my mounts;

The LH engine mounting, made by my own fair hand!

Engine mount

Make the mounting hole in the plate slotted or you will never be able to drop the engine in!

Do you need to have the mount on the engine there? I'd be tempted to do away with it all and start again with a bit of 3-4mm plate on the engine with suitable holes drilled and then a bit of 40x40 box or similar to horizontal flat plate that the flexible mount can bolt into or through. It'll be easier to fit that way too. And have less joins to go wrong.

that mount, despite having paid £ 30 for a pair is gonna hjave to go - that angle is all wrong.

the mkIII will use disc rubbers (red in picture) and my home made mounts (yellow). This is like the Haynes book mehtod.
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My Striker actually uses the same escort mounts that you have, but on the chassis side the mounting is a little more complex and ties in to the top chassis rail:


Sylva Striker engine mounts