designer
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 02:24 PM |
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Chassis with bike drawn in
Have added BMW (only bike drawing I had) to rear of chassis.
[img]
 
Bike
[/img]
The main mountings are the steering head onto the roll bar and two links from the chassis lower cross member to the front, lower bike frame which form
a wide based triangle.
The rear beams are connected to the sides of the bike frame and provide the lateral location.
The mounting method is the same for whatever bike is eventually chosen to use.
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v8kid
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 02:46 PM |
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Like the use of a monoshock front end as you have to take all the roll out there anyhow. Wheelbase looks a bit long though and inertia might be a bit
high - could you pull the front wheels back a bit? After all there is not much foot protection there anyhow so you might as well 
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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blakep82
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 02:51 PM |
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i know this is how they are often done, but they always seema bit cut and shut to me, and they often look like it too.
i'd much prefer a proper chassis, designed to hold the engine and swingarm, thats how i'd do it if i was doing one, rather than basically
a bike with no front wheel bolted to half a chassis.
oh yeah, and as below, i'd still go twin shock too
[Edited on 13/4/11 by blakep82]
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 03:04 PM |
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wont the front end setup make both front wheels lift when only one goes over a bump?
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 03:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dangle_kt
wont the front end setup make both front wheels lift when only one goes over a bump?
Thats what i was thinking. You effectively have a live axle on the front with the setup you have drawn.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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scootz
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 03:31 PM |
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Not for me!
The COG is too high and the bikes chassis, swingarm and rear wheel were not designed to deal with the kind of loads that you'll be putting
through them.
It's Evolution Baby!
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v8kid
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 03:34 PM |
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Monoshock front ends have Belleville washers in 'em that flatten letting the wheels act independently - but not much! Boneshaker on the road but
dogs nutsack on the track
Could the bike be angled down to lower the CofG? Also I'm not sure there are a lot of extra forces being put on the swing arm possibly less.
However I do agree it looks a bit tacky ! Sorry Designer
[Edited on 13-4-11 by v8kid]
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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designer
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 03:50 PM |
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Don't worry about comments, that's what forums are for, and it's good to know whether the comment is good, or bad.
Once you removed the petrol tank most of the high weight is gone, and there is probably less metal in a bike frame than in an engine carrying sub
frame.
There will be a full body so it does not look like a bike has rear-ended a car.
[Edited on 13-4-11 by designer]
[Edited on 13-4-11 by designer]
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scootz
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 04:42 PM |
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I'm guessing you've seen the 'Shrike'?
I did consider it when I was going to use the K1200RS as the donor, but changed my mind for all the reasons in my previous post.
It's Evolution Baby!
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designer
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 04:59 PM |
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I have full details of the Shrike, that's where the bike drawing came from.
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Humbug
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 05:42 PM |
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That Shrike looks horrible (IMHO).
Thinking about yours and some of the comments already made, you could reduce the length by having 2 bike back ends, one each side, and the seat in the
middle between them. You would then have 4 wheels like a "proper" car and would not suffer from cold in winter because of the
"heaters" either side of your torso. You would also probably have no hearing, and I wouldn't like to think what would happen if an
engine throws a rod through the casing...
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Humbug
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 05:45 PM |
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Another alternative: how about doing away with the rear frame-to-engine bracing and keeping the steering head moveable, lock up the front steering so
the wheels always point the same way, then you would have an "interesting" situation where you sit ahead of the steering point 
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Humbug
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 05:46 PM |
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or...or... reduce the length by keeping the single bike back end and put a seat either side?
OK, I'll shut up now.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 06:14 PM |
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that stike thing, now that the trike can no longer lean through corners is going to be wearing very fast though it's back bike tyre, much better
fitting a car tyre instead. Seems to be a common and very expensive mistake.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 06:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Humbug
Another alternative: how about doing away with the rear frame-to-engine bracing and keeping the steering head moveable, lock up the front steering so
the wheels always point the same way, then you would have an "interesting" situation where you sit ahead of the steering point
your mad! however that is what it is like to drive a bus, with the cab ahead of the wheels and it takes a bit of getting use to
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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blakep82
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 06:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
that stike thing, now that the trike can no longer lean through corners is going to be wearing very fast though it's back bike tyre, much better
fitting a car tyre instead. Seems to be a common and very expensive mistake.
+1, you only wear down the centre of the tyre, also, the seing arm on a bike only gets up and down forces on it, when you turn a corner, you still
feel like you're pushed into the seat, mostly. turn it into a trike, and you'll wear the centr eon the back tyre, and put loads of side
loads into the swing arm that its not designed for.
as whippy says, car tyre on the back is the way. best look at F1 and F2 side car rear arms. think scootz sent his trike off to windle? they know how
to make a proper swing arm for a 3 wheeler!
don't think they'll be cheap though!
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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designer
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 10:05 PM |
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The rear tyre will be changed to a 205/50, probably half worn to stiffen it up for coenering.
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 13/4/11 at 11:04 PM |
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there was a kit 3/4 years ago that was basicly the same as your drawing including having the same mono shock front suspension it was finished of with
single-seater side pods. It looked a bit like a bike had run in to the back of an f1 car. I cant remember the name but some one will i'm sure. I
have always liked the indy cycle witch i think looks mutch nicer despite still being very long.
http://www.indycycle.net/media_files/images.html
but my favroet trike is the SUB G1 witch shortens the wheal base by putting the engine along side the driver
http://www.sub3wheeler.com/index.php
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SeaBass
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| posted on 14/4/11 at 06:49 AM |
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^^ MRide?
Still think this is a better suspension setup from the Mride.
http://www.mride.se/suspension.html
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