02GF74
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 03:27 PM |
|
|
multi-way connector for removalbe dash.
this is the idea.
my dash will be attached to scuttle with lots of button heads to be easily removable from the front (steering wheel and column switches need to be
removed first.)
I am thinking for putting two or three multi-way plugs between the instruments and the loom so that these are unplugged rather than having to remove
the various wires from the instruments in order to move dash out of the car. it will be easier to work on reverse side of the dash when it is out of
the car.
any reason why this is a bad idea?
access to the instruments/lamps/switches could be gotten by removing the scuttle so maybe not so great an idea.?
just thinking aloud.
|
|
|
Moorron
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 03:36 PM |
|
|
This is what i did when i redone my dash, means its quicker to diagnose problems as you can use a multimeter at one single point.
just make a note of what pins do what
Sorry about my spelling, im an engineer and only work in numbers.
|
|
BenB
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 03:38 PM |
|
|
That's what I've done. Works really well. My dash has 10 captive bolts in it that protrude through into the scuttle and are held in place
with 10 wing nuts.
Undo the wing nuts, disconnect the two multiway connectors, job done.
Takes a couple of minutes...
Definitely worth doing IMHO.
|
|
shortie
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 03:40 PM |
|
|
Me too, good idea.
Make sure your connectors are correctly rated for what you are using them for though.
Rich.
|
|
gingerprince
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 03:41 PM |
|
|
I used these: -
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=997&criteria
=multiway&doy=24m9
Of course only for low current applications - no good for your starter button
|
|
02GF74
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 03:45 PM |
|
|
so no votes against - soundsl ike a plan.
I was thinking about D-type connector *; need to check current rating but it is mostly for LED lamps and low current for instruments.
It would be good if the connector could be mounted on the rear of the dash so the plug can be disconnect using 1 hand.
* a quick search shows these are rated at 7.5 A per contact seems rather a lot.
[Edited on 24/9/07 by 02GF74]
|
|
worX
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 03:52 PM |
|
|
I used two (my clocks are the Blade ones so they are also seperated from the loom with two of their own) One rated for wiring etc and then one with a
higher rating for the ignition etc.
I bought them all from here - POLEVOLT
cheers,
Steve
|
|
RoadkillUK
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 05:59 PM |
|
|
I used a 24 pin connector from a PC PSU (actually it was 2 converters, 24-20 and 20-24 pin)
I only used them as I had them lying about, but I reckon they are about perfect (if you don't mind a bit of soldering)
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
|
|
Peteff
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 06:35 PM |
|
|
I made mine so the dash is in place when the scuttle is removed. The only thing I need to disconnect is the speedo cable.
Dash in place with scuttle removed.
[Edited on 24/9/07 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
MikeRJ
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 07:58 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by 02GF74
* a quick search shows these are rated at 7.5 A per contact seems rather a lot.
[Edited on 24/9/07 by 02GF74]
That seems very high though they do vary between manufacturers. Most seem to be around 3 to 5 Amps per pin.
Only problem with them is the solder buckets are generaly a but too small for most automotive cable.
You can always use more than one, or a 37 way and double up on pins for more current.
[Edited on 24/9/07 by MikeRJ]
|
|
caber
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 08:53 PM |
|
|
I used a couple of standard 6 way connectors to do this. it really is a great help in working on the dash and the wiring behind it. This is a really
simple thing to do and very well worth it.
Caber
|
|
grusks2
|
posted on 24/9/07 at 10:01 PM |
|
|
I used 3 x 8way multi plugs ( 1 for warning lights - 1 for gauges - 1 for switches )
Rescued attachment CIMG04881.JPG
http://mac1worxbuild.wordpress.com/
forgot my old password so another username doh
|
|
02GF74
|
posted on 25/9/07 at 09:42 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by MikeRJ
Only problem with them is the solder buckets are generaly a but too small for most automotive cable.
yeah, that may be a problem.
|
|
thomas4age
|
posted on 27/9/07 at 03:24 PM |
|
|
if you need that thick cable to you dash you're not using enough relais.
dash wiring should not be neccisarily thicker than .75mmsq which can fit in almost any D-type I know, D types are just so doggy, I've used
Socapex connectors but those are very expensive
for higher power apllications like charge lights that are the field wire to the alternator (denso's) you could use neutrik XLR microphone plugs
those hold 20amp easilly
grtz Thomas
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
|
|
02GF74
|
posted on 27/9/07 at 03:32 PM |
|
|
well not really; I didn't wire it up originally and it looks like a car loom was used which has thick wires.
there is not need for relays since it is just instruments that I am wiring up.
I will be using a pair of ATX 20 way connectors since these are physically bigger then D-type plus if I am right, they have push in type crimp
contacts so will be easier to make up the connectors.
|
|