Ian Pearson
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| posted on 23/12/03 at 11:51 PM |
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Transit Balljoints
Compliments of the Festive Season to you all.
Moving my build for the 3rd time. Started the car for the first time today,and drove it on to the trailer. Big smile. 
My transit ball joints will not tighten to the extent that any thread is visible through the nyloc. There was a post on this ages ago, but I
don't remember anyone having any advice on the subject. Anyone out there have the same problem??
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greggors84
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| posted on 24/12/03 at 01:49 AM |
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Not sure if its the same problem but one of my track rod end ball joints just rotates so the nut has tightened onto it but wont tightened up any more
or come off! i can just split the nut and put a new rod end on, but why has this happened just so it doesnt happen again.
Sorry for the hijack, but its along the same lines 
Thanks
Chris
The Magnificent 7!
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Rorty
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| posted on 24/12/03 at 03:48 AM |
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Ian, I'm not building a Locost nor using any Cortina uprights, so I can't help you compare, however I may have a clue as to what's
going on.
Ford used two different rod-ends in the Transit steering system: the tie-rod end (outer end of the tie-rod) has a M20 x 1.5 male thread, while the
drag link (inner end of the tie-rod) has a M18 x 1.5 male thread. Now I've used both of them on various projects over the years, and have mainly
been interested in their thread size. But I now wonder if the M20 tie-rod end is actually an over-all larger beast i.e. a larger diameter taper as
well. That might explain why it's not sitting as far into the Cortina taper seat as it possibly should.
The best solution may be to take your "tie-rod end" to a motor factor, and compare with both the tie-rod end and the drag link end.
I'll be able to confirm the sizes in early January, as I'm starting a new project that will be using both the Transit rod ends.
Anybody else know if the tapers are identical or not?
greggors84, hit the top of the rod end a sharp blow with a rubber mallett to drive the taper stud into the taper seat in the upright. Once the tapers
interfere, you'll be able to remove the nut.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 24/12/03 at 08:22 AM |
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Ian you can get "half nuts"ie half the height of normals or use castleated nuts and splitpins,will mean drillong joint tho.
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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jcduroc
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| posted on 24/12/03 at 04:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
Anybody else know if the tapers are identical or not?
According to QH drawings taper's the same for both (QR1408 - M20 and QD117 - M18), 1/8.
Cheers
Joćo
JCM
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 25/12/03 at 09:59 PM |
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Cheers Rorty & John.
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paulf
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| posted on 26/12/03 at 10:25 PM |
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I think this is a commonly found problem, i found the nuts to be to thick also and the thread would not reach the nylon at all. I didnt want to reduce
the thickness of the nuts so set the uprights in a milling machine and removed about 3mm from the mating face , this just lets the nuts srew on until
the thread is protruding by a couple of threads. I have heard of others doing the same thing and think it is preferable to reducing the retaining nut
thickness.
If you do not have access to a milling machine it would not be to expensive to shop out, the main thing is to make sure that the face remains square
to the taper and nut face.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by Ian Pearson
My transit ball joints will not tighten to the extent that any thread is visible through the nyloc. There was a post on this ages ago, but I
don't remember anyone having any advice on the subject. Anyone out there have the same problem??
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Rorty
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| posted on 28/12/03 at 05:36 AM |
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paulf:
quote:
I....set the uprights in a milling machine and removed about 3mm from the mating face .... I have heard of others doing the same thing and think it is
preferable to reducing the retaining nut thickness.
Au contraire! I think it would be preferable to retain the meat around the taper, and fit a half/thin Nyloc nut. The taper of the ball pin will become
almost as one with the taper seat in the upright. The longer the union, the stronger the union. The nut is just there for little more than decoration.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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type 907
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| posted on 28/12/03 at 10:06 AM |
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Hi All
There must be a variation somewhere.
I got mine from Robin Hood Eng & they seem OK as you can see, just through the nylon. The lug is 22mm thick, but I can't see that this would
vary, so it must be in the B/J. I personaly wouldn't have a problem with taking the odd mil off the lug but obviously its best if you
don't have to. Wouldn't use a half nut but once again the odd mil taken off it in a lathe, I would be happy with.
Paul G
 
Rescued attachment tranny ball joint 002s.jpg
Too much is just enough
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paulf
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| posted on 28/12/03 at 12:52 PM |
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Rorty
I fully understand your point and would have been inclined to do the same, but the taper does not come fully through the forging as the threaded part
is within the taper.Therefore i have lost little mating area.
Ideally the taper should be opened up to achieve the desired result but i didnt have a reamer handy and i think there is more room for error in that
case.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
paulf:
quote:
I....set the uprights in a milling machine and removed about 3mm from the mating face .... I have heard of others doing the same thing and think it is
preferable to reducing the retaining nut thickness.
Au contraire! I think it would be preferable to retain the meat around the taper, and fit a half/thin Nyloc nut. The taper of the ball pin will become
almost as one with the taper seat in the upright. The longer the union, the stronger the union. The nut is just there for little more than decoration.
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Rorty
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| posted on 29/12/03 at 02:20 AM |
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Point taken.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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