Catpuss
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| posted on 27/5/07 at 04:02 PM |
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Does this brake line routing look OK?
Before I commit to P clips I thought I would check with others here on if this routing looks OK.
I'm happy with it except for the rear drums. The bleed nipple on the near side is forwards and on the off side its rear. Would I be correct in
assuming that the nipple and brake line enterances are interchangable on the slave cylinders, and if so, are they better forwards or rear wards.
The other thing rear wise, should the short copper line be on the drum, does it P clip to the rear upright, and should it go through the cut circle in
the upright?
Sorry about the photo quality the back display on the camera got cracked on the way to Stoneleigh 
 
Master Slave and Switch
Master Slave and Light Switch
 
Front Near Side Line Routing
Front Near Side Lines
The Bum End of the car
 
Rear Near Side
Rear Near Side
 
Rear Tee Piece 2
Tee Exiting Tunnel
 
Offside Rear
Offside Rear
 
Lines Through Tunnel
The Fudged Tunnel
I've uploaded the pictures to my photo archive in the BreakLinesRouting1 directory
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scottc
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| posted on 27/5/07 at 04:27 PM |
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Were you really scared or really cold when taking those pics? 
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Catpuss
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| posted on 27/5/07 at 04:29 PM |
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I hadn't told the missus that I broke her camera at Stoneleigh. I guess you can work it out from that 
The problem with the sodding thing is now, that it takes up 2 seconds between click and the picture being taken. Soddin thing.
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stevec
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| posted on 27/5/07 at 06:50 PM |
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Cant really make out the brake pipe pics but I reckon you need more threads through the nyloc nuts on the rear uprights,Unless its just loosely
assembled.
Steve.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 27/5/07 at 07:50 PM |
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MC plumbing and front lines look the same as my routing, can't comment on the rear because of your IRS.
Just make sure the lines are rubbing or touching on anything anywhere and you will be fine.
Rear drums you can fit the bleed nipple in either hole
David
PS dont put copper slip on thread which you are putting nylocs onto, they need to be assembled onto the bolt dry.
[Edited on 27/5/07 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Catpuss
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| posted on 27/5/07 at 09:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevec
Cant really make out the brake pipe pics but I reckon you need more threads through the nyloc nuts on the rear uprights,Unless its just loosely
assembled.
Steve.
Yep, Everything is really just mocked up at the moment. Nothing is down to proper tightness.
As I'm half way between leaving the drive shafts as is or getting re-con ones it best that I don't do everything up to final torque until
confirmed.
I've had a look at MK Ninja's photo archive and there are some good photos there. Couple of adjustments to the layout of mine to match
that and I can now route my main tunnel line along the bottom of the tunnel.
Just need to fab up the ally angle bits from the cut out of the belly pan then rivet them in place.
Flak, yep, once I'm ready for final tightness the threads are getting cleaned up with de-greaser. When I was putting them on, I was getting the
stuff all over myself and had to pull em out once or twice so will do it all again at the end. Possibly with a spot of thread lock too to be sure.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 07:07 AM |
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The brake pipe on the O/S/R seems to be fouling what looks like the rear upright?
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Catpuss
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 08:50 AM |
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Thanks yep. I've got to make up some brackets today.
At the moment its all mocked up with string
I'm going to use the big bit of ally cut out for the gearbox for materials. Looks like its more than up to the job for flat plate bits. Should
bend OK where I need L shape bits.
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