Simon
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 08:06 PM |
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Jag IRS - mounting pics (cobra chassis etc) needed
Chaps,
I collected a Jag IRS yesterday (ex XJS V12?), it has a LSD and a 2.88:1 ratio, which is good.
From what I can gather, it has a mounting on top (for 4 bolts).
I'm not using the cage and therefore need to find some good quality pics showing one mounted in Cobra etc etc chassis.
Anyone got any suggestions on designs for framework, bearing in mind it's just mounted at the top?
Cheers very much
ATB
Simon
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Fozzie
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 08:25 PM |
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Simon, what are you wanting to put this in? Locost, Indy or another type of '7'?
Fozzie 
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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Snuggs
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 08:30 PM |
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Got this pic.
 
Rescued attachment Cobra 008.jpg
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/snuggstcb
Spider pig, spider pig, does whatever a spider pig does.
I doubt therefore I may be.
Luposlipophobia : Fear of being chased by wolves around a freshly waxed kitchen floor, while wearing only socks on your feet.
My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely!
http://www.venganza.org
http://www.jesusandmo.net/
http://www.snuggs.co.uk
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Simon
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 08:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Fozzie
Simon, what are you wanting to put this in? Locost, Indy or another type of '7'?
Fozzie
Fozzie,
Going in the locost - I wanted a Sierra 3.14 diff, but gave up. Prices are getting silly, and they aren't that strong anyway.
The Jag unit, whilst heavy, has an even better fd ratio, an LSD and is much much stronger.
It'll be going on after I've bolted on the twin turbos to my RV8 
Snuggs
That helps a lot - it also seems it needs mounting at bottom too - need to get a Haynes manual
Cheer and
ATB
Simon
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Fozzie
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 09:04 PM |
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Simon,
if its going into the '7' you will have to make a frame to mount off the 4 top bolts, locating to your chassis somehow but making sure you
get the correct pinion angle.
The 4 top bolts on a standard Jaguar are lock wired in place.
I hope you are not thinking of using inboard calipers on it. 
Fozzie
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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Simon
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 10:16 PM |
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Fozzie,
Yep - I have every intention of using inboard calipers exactly as it came from boot of my car
I just measured (roughly) Deimos between drum outer faces and came up with 60.5". I roughly calculated the (disassembled) Jag unit and came up
with 61.5 ish". That won't need narrowing then!
One minor inconvenience is the offset input to diff. Shafts etc same length, so may need to modify chassis slightly.
Will order book tomorrow. Wisbech Engineering seem to do quite a lot of custom bits, so might contact them.
ATB
Simon
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Deckman001
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 10:21 PM |
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Trust all the Fozz says on the subject, she/they know what they are talking about with Jags
Jason
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Fozzie
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 10:35 PM |
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Simon
I really don't want to wee on ya fireworks, but are you aware of the weight of the whole unit?
The failings of the inboard calipers....
they tend to overheat, which in turn blows the seals and the diff.
I/we have seen the shocks disintergrate.
We have just finished building an E-type axle, the costs 'trade' to us to replace wheel bearings all the fulcrum bearings, drive shaft
UJ's, shocks and rear calipers cost around £1600 ...
Jag parts are *&*%ing expensive
Not to mention the hubs to wheel PCD's (if ya going to use that).
I just wanted you to be aware before parting with your 'hard-earned'
Fozzie
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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mark chandler
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| posted on 14/7/06 at 09:25 AM |
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Ah but there is some good news on your question.
Jag's rely on the halfshafts to act as the top bone, the location is handled by the lower wishbone, as such the diff becomes a composite element
in the car so is very securely fixed. When you go for an MOT you pump the halfshaft UJ's full of heavy grease on the day to take out the slack
!
If you are using your existing bones then you will not need to go overboard on the fixings as the diff will only be supporting itself not the car, as
long as its as strong as the sierra mount you are alright.
I found jag prices to be okay from David Manners.
The main problem with XJS's is the lack of access to service the brakes, this tends to lead to issues with seals etc. some
'specialists' used to cut a holes on under the rear seats and boot to access the handbrake shoes.
Regards Mark
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Simon
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| posted on 14/7/06 at 07:20 PM |
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Fozzie,
Appreciate your concerns - but I wonder if they apply to a hardworking (and heavy) production cars. Deimos is relatively light compared to the donor
vehicles, so I suspect these items won't be doing much hard work - especially as I was 40 a week ago and seemed to have developed a habit of
driving at 20mph with a pipe and a hat
Have you put it back in the car - if not, any chance you could put up some pics please. Thanks
Mark
I'm intending to use all Jag parts, want to try and keep things as "simple" as possible. It's definately going to be a lot of
work!!!!
Re access to rear pads - I'd heard about this, and I'll likewise do similar - cut a removeable panel into rear trim panel. I have no boot
floor, so may be able to access through there.
How's your progess?
Cheers (though more comments more than welcome).
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 14/7/06 by Simon]
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Fozzie
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| posted on 14/7/06 at 08:03 PM |
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Simon,
Sadly the axle is back in the E-type.
The problems I was referring to were not for heavy hardworking cars!
Its an inherant problem due to the proximity of 2 great big discs generating heat and the diff!
I am not here to tell you what to put in your car, but I couldn't just say nothing.
You were 40 last week? A mere whipper-snapper! Happy birthday anyway.
ATB Fozzie
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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Simon
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| posted on 14/7/06 at 08:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Fozzie
You were 40 last week? A mere whipper-snapper! Happy birthday anyway.
ATB Fozzie
Cheers very much That's 19 years without a drink
Re brakes - I can see some ducting coming into play
ATB
Simon
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gazza285
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| posted on 14/7/06 at 08:50 PM |
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I've got some Jag PCD 15" by 11" Compomotive split rims sat here doing nothing urgent, how wide are your arches?
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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Simon
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| posted on 14/7/06 at 08:53 PM |
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Gazza,
Not that wide
I'm going to see about getting the Jag hubs re-drilled to take the wheels I already have!
Cheers anyway.
ATB
Simon
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mark chandler
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| posted on 14/7/06 at 09:16 PM |
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Hi Simon,
Coming along nicely now, about another 10 days will see it finished.
To be honest I would have thought using the full jag system would be very hard as the lower wishbones are big heavy things with bearings buried in the
ends to stop the hub from twisting. The driveshafts just control the camber so it would be hard to replicate and maintain the strength, thats why
jaguar did not use CV joints in the first place.
The rod/plate/wishbone/whateveritscalled that comes from the sill on a jag is only required because the diff carrier is mounted on rubber, once you
solidly mount the diff this item is redundant.
IMHO I would look at modifying your existing shafts with CV's to mate to the jag diff flanges. The wheels should light up long before you break
the sierra based stuff and you still retain the jag brakes.
Anyway to answer your question, changing the service brake pads is easy, its the handbrake pads that are a swine !But as you will use new pads I would
hazard that once in you will never need to replace so don't worry.
I managed to change XJS & SIII XJ pads in situ, awkward and painful but not impossible, both times drove with the handbrake on, V12 jags are
great, plenty of torque and those tiny pads fall apart in seconds, 200 yards does it....
Regards Mark
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