RazMan
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 posted on 22/1/06 at 04:42 PM |
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Anyone got any 8.5" x .5" bolts?
I have been waiting for some upper wishbone pivot bolts to be made for over a year now so I think I had better try and source them again.
They are 1/2"unf and 8-1/2" long.
Not sure of the tensile level but they are nickel plated.
Anyone?
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Mix
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 05:16 PM |
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Do you really need one long bolt? could you do the same job with two shorter ones?
Mick
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RazMan
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 05:24 PM |
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Nope, unfortunately it is one long bolt which also connects the shocks.
I've got 8" bolts but they aren't long enough to get through the Nylocks.
[Edited on 22-1-06 by RazMan]
 
Rescued attachment Rack.jpg
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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907
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 05:57 PM |
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A 9" long x 1/2" bright bar, (or other h/t bar)
Thread both ends and use dome nuts maybe???
Paul G
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RazMan
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 06:19 PM |
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Thats a more realistic way 907.- ta for the tip.
Only one problem - I haven't got any suitable bar or dies for 1/2" 
Here's hoping someone will come to my rescue 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 06:26 PM |
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Get the threads cut on a lathe by someone who knows what they are doing? Probably cheaper and better than a die
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907
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 06:39 PM |
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I have a similar problem, but shorter.
My shocks are 1/2".
I was thinking of 1/2" dia bar, turned down to 12 mm at each end and threaded M12.
It's on my list of things to do. (long list)
Paul G
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RazMan
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 06:54 PM |
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Another good idea. Just a thought, but can you use stainless in this type of application? It would save on the cost of plating.
[Edited on 22-1-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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907
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 07:02 PM |
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Well, rightly or wrongly I am.
With a stainless chassis it would be a shame to use anything else.
On any stressed application I use 316.
In bolt terms these are marked A4 80.
Roughly = to 8.8
Paul G
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Liam
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 07:17 PM |
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I bought my long 1/2" bolts (for rear upright to lower wishbone in my case) from here...
http://www.ahc-camberley.co.uk/
Cant remember exactly how long mine were but they have many sizes.
Liam
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bob
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 08:41 PM |
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I have used AHC camberley as well for different bolts,very good service and fast too.
In fact i ordered a couple of long bolts for my indy rear bottom bones over the phone,was told to send cheque so i posted straight away and the bolts
arrived next morning.
Its nice to have a bit of trust
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owelly
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 08:54 PM |
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I'm guessing that you only need about 3/4" of thread? I'll see what I can find at work tomorrow night. Does it matter about the
thread as long as I get nuts to suit?
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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RazMan
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| posted on 22/1/06 at 10:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by owelly
I'm guessing that you only need about 3/4" of thread? I'll see what I can find at work tomorrow night. Does it matter about the
thread as long as I get nuts to suit?
Thanks for the AHC contact guys - always good to have another, especially if they cover the unusual.
Owely - I guess the thread isn't really important as long as I can find Nylocks to fit.
Awfully decent of you old chap 
[Edited on 22-1-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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RazMan
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 04:27 PM |
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I phoned AHC today and they tell me that anything over 8" has to be custom made so its a no-go Looks like I will need to find someone with a
lathe.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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NS Dev
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 07:18 PM |
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I have had a similar problem in the past with Opel Manta upper wishbone bolts.
These are M12x1.25, and about 10" long.
I didn't want to use stainless or the like because the original bolts are 10.9 not 8.8 and it's a pretty stressed point on the manta (much
heavier than these kit type machines!!)
I ended up getting some done locally "between jobs" by a small cnc shop.
Made them from EN24T which is approx equivalent to 10.9 class bolts, but without the need for heat treatment. Certainly a lot stronger than 316
stainless, but then 316 should be ok on a light car.
(but then the manta doesn't feed the shocker load into the bolt like yours does so who knows??......................
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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RazMan
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 08:41 PM |
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Ooooer, you've got me thinking now, maybe I had better use EN24T and not stainless after all.
Thanks for the tip 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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owelly
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 03:42 PM |
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Sorry matey. All I can find is 8" in 1/2" but plenty of 5/8" in 8-9"!!
If you send me some 1/2" bar I can machine some threads on the end for you but the return postage will probably cost more than a trip to the
local engineering emporium!
HTH (although it didn't!)
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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RazMan
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 03:48 PM |
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Thanks for trying to sort me out Owelly - much appreciated. I think I will have to approach someone locally and see what happens.
quote:
Originally posted by owelly
Sorry matey. All I can find is 8" in 1/2" but plenty of 5/8" in 8-9"!!
If you send me some 1/2" bar I can machine some threads on the end for you but the return postage will probably cost more than a trip to the
local engineering emporium!
HTH (although it didn't!)
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 05:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
Ooooer, you've got me thinking now, maybe I had better use EN24T and not stainless after all.
Thanks for the tip
I wasn't trying to scaremonger, just relay my thinking on a subject I had come across myself.
If you think about it, you would have no worries about using 3 M12 8.8 class bolts for your upper wishbone brackets and shocker, and that is
effectively what you are doing if you use a piece of 316 stainless bar, so it's almost certainly fine.
I was dealing with a much heavier car and a bolt which I knew was originally 10.9 class, which was why I was worried!
I think either/or will do the trick to be honest.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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RazMan
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 05:39 PM |
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Thanks again - better safe than sorry I suppose.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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britishtrident
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 08:22 PM |
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Old big Volvos use a very long single bolt to go through both lower wishbone pivots can't swear what dia it was but fair chance it was 12mm.
Used to be an absolute swine to remove.
Also what size is the bolt that runs through the upper wishbone pivot on MK3-5 Cortinas and Mk1&Mk2 Grandads.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 25/1/06 at 12:02 AM |
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Dunno BT but it's very similar to the manta one.................ruddy impossible to get out!!!
You can guess why I needed some new ones!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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