caber
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 09:21 PM |
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Ford Capri axle
I have found what i believe is a Ford Capri Axle in a breakers. Anyone know anything about them or any reason not to use this for the back end of a
book chassis? It will be driven by a mildly breathed on 1600 pinto through a type 9 gearbox.
I have not managed to find much about track or ratio for these or how I would identify exactly what they came from.
TIA Caber
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flak monkey
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 09:24 PM |
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IIRC they are about 4" wider than an escort axle.
No problem, just means you need wider rear wings which all the suppliers do now to accomodate the sierra stuff.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 09:32 PM |
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Thats what im using
Its is wider, but the escort axle never filled the standard arches anyway.
The axle is stronger aswell and should take what ever you put its way  ill be giving it 165 horses to play with
Its been used in many a Race/Rally escort in its time.
May need to make a small adjustment to back of tunnell , its on here some where.
There is a guy on here (down south) who has a mega cheap escort axle already bracketted ,only catch is the brake back plates are missing.
regards warren
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 09:53 PM |
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Several types of capri axle depending on year, where it was built and the engine capacity --- english or salsbury. Also two different widths
50" or 52" across brake backplate flanges (Escort is 48" .
Width and dia of rear drums a clue to engine fitted to donor.
V6 cars had very wide 9" drums, 2 litres had 9 inch drums, 1600 were usually 9" but could be 8", 1300 usually 8" but not
unkown to find 9" drums.
Early MK1 Capris had English axles and single piston wheel cylinders.
English axle became rare in later years of production but could still be found on english built cars with 1300 engines.
Axle ratios for any given engine size were much as per Escort, Corsair & Cortina --- 1300 will usually have a 3.89 ratio, 1600 3.77 or less
often 3.89, 2 litre 3.55 or 3.77
Anythng "higher" (longer) indicates a V6.
Be aware Ford weren't the only company to use Salsbury pattern axles so check the wheel PCD. All Capris used leaf springs.
[Edited on 8/12/05 by britishtrident]
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 10:14 PM |
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I used a capri axle
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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caber
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 10:50 PM |
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Mark
Thanks That has saved a few future head scratching sessions!
Caber
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Peteff
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 11:58 PM |
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I fitted one from a "W" reg 2.0 S Capri and according to the tag it was a 3.44:1. You need to kink the tunnel in to the drivers side as
the nose is offset but apart from that there's no problem.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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JoelP
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| posted on 9/12/05 at 12:19 PM |
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my locost has a capri axle, and i wish it didnt. The kink at the back of the transmission tunnel makes it hard to fit a nice seat, though i suspect i
can re do the tubes and make it fit.
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Hornet
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| posted on 9/12/05 at 02:29 PM |
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dont use it..... cause I need a capri axle for my mk3 project... wana sell it dude?
John.. ps .. i have those bolts if u want, but they are either 60 or 70mm and not zink plated.
Cheers
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caber
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| posted on 9/12/05 at 05:17 PM |
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Hornet, I don't know about selling but would do a straight swop for a complete Mk1 or Mk2 escort axle!
caber
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02GF74
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| posted on 12/12/05 at 02:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
There is a guy on here (down south) who has a mega cheap escort axle already bracketted ,only catch is the brake back plates are missing.
ha haha that's not me is it ?
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/12/05 at 02:52 PM |
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Most axles need a tunnel kink -- but the intrustion into the cockpit can be reduced by using slightly longer trailing links.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/12/05 at 10:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
There is a guy on here (down south) who has a mega cheap escort axle already bracketted ,only catch is the brake back plates are missing.
ha haha that's not me is it ?
It wasnt no ,Why How much is yours
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caber
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| posted on 19/12/05 at 12:17 PM |
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Now got my axle home. The handbrake arrangement is incomplete it looks like a rod operated system across the axle though one half is missing. How have
other people done this with capri axles?
Caber
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/12/05 at 12:58 PM |
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Use a late model Morris Ital cable and you do away with the rod it just causes no end of problems.
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caber
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| posted on 3/1/06 at 11:25 PM |
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Put the axle into the frame today. I cleaned it a bit and found a tag that said 3.5 which i assume is the ratio. Both wheel flanges rotate forward
when you turn the prop shaft connection, it is a Salsbury pattern and has these casting marks on it, any idea what i am putting in my car?
Caber
 
Rescued attachment Diffv Marking 2.jpg
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caber
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 07:10 PM |
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OK more grief with this axle! Has anyone got a Haynes for the Capri who could scan the pages relevant to dismantling the half shafts and diff, while I
am at it the brakes as well! I am suspicious that all the studs are missing on one side so before I do too much more I want to take it all to bits to
make sure it is good.
TIA
Caber
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 07:53 PM |
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Wheel stud breakage is very common on Fords of this era with metric wheel nuts --- missing studs nothing to worry about usually happens first time
the wheels nuts are slackened after the nuts have been done up too tight. If the studs are missing someone has been needing a few spares.
Shaft and bearing held in only by the same four bolts that hold the back plates --- but you will need to bolt an old wheel on then hammer on the
tyre working round the tyre while pulling at the shaft and it will just pop out.
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caber
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 09:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Wheel stud breakage is very common on Fords of this era with metric wheel nuts --- missing studs nothing to worry about usually happens first time
the wheels nuts are slackened after the nuts have been done up too tight. If the studs are missing someone has been needing a few spares.
Shaft and bearing held in only by the same four bolts that hold the back plates --- but you will need to bolt an old wheel on then hammer on the
tyre working round the tyre while pulling at the shaft and it will just pop out.
Err easy with no studs to bolt a wheel on with! Does the backplate come off with the half shaft?
Caber
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lexi
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| posted on 6/1/06 at 12:38 AM |
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Hi Caber
I think the backplate is attached.
On my escort no way would halfshafts come off. I had to make a huge slide hammer ( more like a battering ram) and it finally came off after nearly
giving up. Two guys were holding the axle down on a steel table and I was dragging them and the table down the driveway every whack of my slide
hammer. It should have been on video
Alex
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gazza285
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| posted on 6/1/06 at 12:57 AM |
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To remove Ford halfshafts I knock out one of the studs and use a piece of 12mm threaded bar and a nut to push the bearing out. Put the threaded bar
through the stud hole, then place a nut and washer on the threaded bar, hold the shaft in place against the backplate where the flange behind it is
thickest with mole grips or water pump pliers, and wind on the nut. Never failed in 20 years and no need to batter the bearings with a slide hammer.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 7/1/06 at 06:21 PM |
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The only way I could get mine out was with a slide hammer.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/1/06 at 06:40 PM |
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I had a proper Churchill slide hammer half shaft puller for years and and pulled dozens of Rootes, Ford and BL shafts without it.
Getting halfshafts out really isn't hard no matter how long they have been in, even on an axle that is off car --- it is just technique -- pull
at one side while the hitting diagonally opposite side at the same time, repeat working a diagonally pattern 3 o'clock, 9 o'clock, 12
o'clock, 6 o'clock.
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